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Michael T

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LaRea

Your observations are 100% consistent with my experience.  A B3 that lives in the water will corrode, and the finish requires maintenance every year.

MarkB

Cheap cR@p these days. I guess that's why so many things are now affordable. But we have gotten used to replacing things 10 times, rather than just buying quality and needing no replacements for 20 years.  Imagine the mess this is making on our garbage dumps.

The problem is you can't sell decent quality stuff anymore, because most people aren't willing to pay the extra price - so you go bankrupt.  Now we are in a situation where we can only get cheap stuff - you can't buy quality even if you wanted to pay for it.

Even swiss watches now are made in China (Tag, etc).  They used to say they were "Made in Switzerland", now they say "Swiss Made" because it is made in a shop in China, under Swiss Management.

I can tell you this topic hits a nerve.  The amount of stuff that breaks nowadays and I have to throw away is CRAZY.

Michael T

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Michael T

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MarkB

Why don't they come up with an electronic module for corrosion protection, like they have in cars?  Something that would keep the drive in a stabile state? Maybe I need to invent something...

Michael T

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MarkB

If there's a way to close the circuit in order to measure the voltage, you can fix, by countering any under or overvoltage.  But the other part is with different metals being used in the same electrical circuit - you may be protecting one metal but not the other (the weaker can become sacrificial), which is probably the problem they are having with the current drive system.

Michael T

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LaRea

Merc pitched SeaCore as the end to outdrive corrosion.  Quoting Merc's web site, "It’s as close as a marine propulsion system can come to being corrosion-proof."  

I love how my boat performs with B3's, but "corrosion-proof" remains an unfulfilled promise.

frenchship

There is away to check if the mercathode are doing what they are supposed to do.

CORROSION PROTECTION TESTING and TROUBLESHOOTING NOTE: The following corrosion PROTECTION test supersedes all previously issued tests. This test can be used on applications with or without a MerCathode System, and with either the old or the new Mercathode System. Use the following test to determine if drive unit is being afforded adequate corrosion protection, or if additional corrosion protection is required. If the unit is equipped with a MerCathode System, it is recommended that this test be performed at least once each year (where the boat is moored) to ensure that the system is functioning properly. Test requires the use of MerCathode Reference Electrode Tester ;6675r\1 and Quicksilver VOA Meter 91-62562r21. (Figure 23) This meter is no longer available from Mercury Marine. If you do not already have this meter, a digital multi-meter (such as a Radio Shack 22-191) must be used. A STANDARD ANALOG (Needle Type) METER CANNOT BE USED AS AN INACCURATE READING WILL RESULT. IMPORTANT: Quicksilver Volt/Ohm Meter 91-43572 and Multi-Meter DVA/Tester 91-99750 are no longer recommended for testing corrosion protection. The MerCathode Reference Electrode Tester 76675A1 is equipped with a special jack (containing a resistor) to provide the proper scale reading when used with Quicksilver VOA Meter 91·625621. Previously, we stated that this plug could be removed to allow tester to be used with other analog type meters. Further testing has revealed that this could result in inaccurate readings and; therefore, we no Longer recommend the removal of this plug and the use of other analog meters. Resistor jack can be left in place when using digital meters.  IMPORTANT: Be sure to observe the following when performing test: If unit is equipped with a MerCathode System, make sure that battery is fully charged (12.6 volts or above). New boats just placed in service usually will produce a reading higher than normal. This is due to the drive unit being protected by a good finish and a new sacrificial zinc (aluminum) anodes. To obtain an accurate diagnosis, the test should be performed after the boat has been in service at least one or two weeks. This will give the paint a chance to "soak" and minor abrasions and scratches will have appeared, which will result in a more accurate reading. Boats should be moored (without being operated) for at least 8 hours before performing tests. This is necessary to allow the MerCathode System and/or sacrificial zinc anodes to polarize the surrounding water. Be careful not to rock the boat excessively while boarding to perform test as this will alter the test reading. 1. Plug negative meter lead into negative (-) receptacle of meter. Connect other end of lead to negative (-) battery  terminal or other convenient engine ground. 2. Plug Reference Electrode Tester lead into positive (+) receptacle of meter. 3. If using Quicksilver VOA Meter 91-62562A1, set meter on  "AUX TEST" position. If using a digital meter, set meter  on scale required to read 0-2000 milli-volts (0-2 volts). 4. Immerse Electrode Tester in the water within 6" (15 cm) of  the aft end of the drive unit. (Figure 24) 5. The following readings indicate that stern drive is adequately protected: Fresh Water Areas --   7.5 - 10.5 with Quicksilver VOA Meter   750-1050 Milli-volts with Digital Meter Salt, Polluted or Mineral Laden Water Areas --   8.8 - 10.5 with Quicksilver VOA Meter   880-1050 Milli-volts with Digital Meter 6. If the reading is not within specified limits, or if reading is within specifications, but there is evidence of corrosion on stern drive, refer to the appropriate troubleshooting chart, following to aid in diagnosis and correcting the problem. ======== LOW READINGS 1. Loss of continuity between drive unit components and negative (-) battery terminal.   Check that continuity devices are not missing or damaged and that connections are clean and tight. If unit is equipped with continuity circuit,  test circuit as explained under Stern Drive Continuity Test. 2. BOATS EQUIPPED WITH SHORE POWER  ONLY: Shore power green safety grounding lead  not isolated from power package ground.   Disconnect shore power and notice if reading increases. If so, a Quicksilver isolator 76664A1 or  an isolation transformer should be installed. 3. Underwater metal parts on drive unit and/or boat unpainted or paint is in poor condition. More exposed metal than zinc anodes and/or Mer Cathode System can protect.  Prime and paint underwater metal parts. This will reduce the load on the zinc anodes and/or MerCathode System. 4. Zinc anodes painted. Anodes will not provide protection if painted. Remove paint or replace anodes. 5. Zinc anodes improperly grounded or inactive. Clean anode mounting surface or replace zinc anodes if they have oxidized. (Refer to inactive Sacrificial Zinc Anodes) 6. Zinc anodes consumed (no longer affording protection).  Replace anodes if eroded 50% or more. 7. Drive unit and/or boat bottom painted with anti fouling paint containing copper or mercury.   Only Tri-Butyl-Tin-Adipate (TBTA) base anti fouling paint should be used. (Refer to Anti Fouling Paint) * Applicable to units with a MerCathode System only. 8. *MerCathode reference electrode or anode painted.     Remove paint. 9. *Zinc anode heads used instead of plastic caps  (MerCruiser 120-thru-260 R & MR MerCathode System Only).   Reinstall plastic caps. 10. *No power to MerCathode controller. Connect positive (+) lead of volt meter (set on 0-20 volt scale) to "f" terminal on controller and negative (-) volt meter lead to "-" terminal. Meter should indicate battery voltage. Check for blown fuse  on Standard MerCathode System. Clean connection or repair wiring as required. 11. *Poor connection between reference electrode (brown) lead or anode (orange) lead and Mer Cathode controller.   Clean and/or tighten connection. Repair wiring. 12. *Faulty MerCathode reference electrode. Disconnect reference electrode (brown) lead from controller "R" terminal. Connect lead to positive (+) terminal of a digital multi-meter (set on 0-2000 millivolt scale). Connect negative (-) meter lead to negative (-) battery terminal. Note meter reading; then repeat test using MerCathode Reference Electrode Tester 76675A1. The same reading should be obtained in both cases. If not, replace reference electrode. 13. *Faulty MerCathode Controller. With anode and reference electrode leads connected to controller, connect a jumper wire between "R" and "-" terminals on controller. Connect positive (+) lead of volt meter (set on 0-20 scale) to "A" terminal on controller. Connect negative (-) meter lead to negative "-" controller terminal. Reading should be as follows: (Continued on page 201)

kneedeep

MT, corrosion is a big worry of mine.  Six years so far, no problems yet.  I do change zincs at the beginning & mid season (and they really need to be replaced by mid season).  RY, barnacles are horrible near me.  I do 3 coats of trilux & it does nothing.  I have to go swimming every week & clean the props & drives or I'm screwed. 

Michael T

Kneedeep, you have a big boat, so I assume you have to have it hauled-out or lifted on a sling half way through the summer to chnage the anodes? MT

Michael T

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JC290

RinkerYan said:

I paint my outdrives with antifouling paint. Only my props get barnacles. 

Need to more burn more diesel RY keep them props cleaner LOL

JC290

I hear Ya I put 75 hours on this season. Back on topic though the B3 drives do seem to show corrision more than others too many cheap mixed metals 

Dream_Inn

RY, do you have hubs on your props?  I've thought about going stainless, but I would definitely have to have ones without hubs.

frenchship

MT,
 Yes rocking of the boat can throw your reading off, also boat near you who have bad AC ground or connection can cause your reading off . By the Mercruiser has a full manual about this test with everything explain how to proceed
P/N 90-881813 01
Paul

luckydog

MT

Corrosion Prevention and Maintenance PDF

 http://www.marinemechanic.com/merc/distributors/mercurymarine/outboard/corrosiontestingandserice.PDF

Thank you frenchship

Dream_Inn

Even more importantly RY, what type of hubs.  Are they pressed in rubber ones, or the square plastic inserts?  I'm very curious.

kneedeep

MT,  I change the anodes in the water.  It's no fun.  I have a pan that i fill with wd40 to rinse all of the tools after I'm done.  I am seriously considering getting a lift at my dock or buying a dive hookah, so that I can stay under long enough to do the work without having to come up for air.  I'm getting too old & out of shape - I don't want to have a heart attack holding my breath too long to change some zincs!

MarkB

Wow, I have to admit, I haven't had to change my anodes after 3 years of use. They still are probably 70%-80% of original. No visible corrosion. I'm on Lake Ontario, not sure if that makes a difference.

Hey MT, do you have any old boats that slip around you?  Lots of stray current in water may be accelerating the corrosion?

kneedeep

No boats around me, I have a dock at my house.  I am on a river & I've been told the mercathode doesn't work as well in flowing water as it would in a harbor.

Michael T

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LaRea

MB -- if your anodes lasted 3 years, they are not giving you as much protection as they should.  You should switch to a different metal ASAP.  If you are using aluminum, switch to magnesium.  The anodes should be 50% gone after one season.

MarkB

MT, I wouldn't conclude that because you saw it in 3 different marinas it is a trend. The average Marina has way more 20 year old boats in it then brand new floating castles.

Can you find out for the other two what kind of boats are around them. Each could have a bad deal in regards to their slip partner.  

Michael T

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Michael T

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MarkB

Well certainly there could be an issue. But I can say on my drive does look pretty good after 3 years, so something must be different about my setup. Not sure what though. Also my cathodes are still fine. My guess is stray current around my boat isn't big. 

aero3113

This pic was posted a while ago but thought it would go well in this thread!

MarkB

Wow.