Outlets not working

Dan4754

True about diesel fumes.
Now, vapor or mist...

JC290

You could jumper the gfi to see if it's bad quick test. I have two on my 290 one at panel and one by the dinette table towards the floor on starboard side

06Rinker270

what do you mean jumper?

JC290

Tie the hot and ground together so the plug is bypassed. Hot to hot ground to ground

06Rinker270

Adding onto my rookie knowledge...what is a good multimeter to buy for a boat(and to use at house)?  Spent a few hours doing some research and I have about 10 in my amazon cart ranging from $23 to $150.  Looked around the forum but couldnt find a discussion.  Top of my list is:

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-CL2000-Clamp-Meter/dp/B003LH7NH2/ref=pd_sim_hi_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=0KK5K1C1BGJ73DN75RAG  

JC290

You really don't need a fancy one one I use mostly I bought at Ace hardware $15 does all I want or need. The Klein you show is probably over kill for you.

LaRea

The clamp-on current meter is a nice-to-have, but you won't need it very often, and it makes the meter bigger and more expensive.  The features you'll need most often are AC and DC volts, continuity, and (occasionally) resistance (ohmeter).  

I bet you'd be just as happy with this for $49:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UL21Y02?psc=1

It actually has a non-contact voltage (NCV) feature, which means you can tell whether an AC outlet or wire is hot without disconnecting anything.  You just hold the probe near the wire casing (not the copper, but the plastic sheath), and it beeps if it's a live circuit.  Always a good practice when working around AC power.

Or, you could get two separate tools and save a few bucks:

multimeter without NCV, $22: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UL21YBQ?psc=1

NCV, $11:  http://www.lowes.com/pd_464286-295-40110N_0__?productId=50129720&Ntt=

Personally, I use the separate NCV.  It's the size of a pen, very easy to use and super-reliable.  I don't work on AC devices without one.

Stodge

I have an "automotive" meter that does RPM, dwell, and a few other things on top of volts etc.  But more often than not the $5 special I got from Harbor Freight will do what I need.  

MarkB

I think I spent about $30 on my multi-meter, and it's been working fine for 3 years. My buddy, a master electrician, used it last year on his boat. He didn't frown.

06Rinker270

Most of these I am seeing only are AC.  I want DC as well correct?

Handymans342

Yes

LaRea

They probably all have both.  If it says "V~" that's AC volts, and "V--" is DC volts.

06Rinker270

I like the one you sent La Rea with the the NCV.  Believe it does DC volts as well

Cableguy Greg

I have 3 Fluke multimeters and I couldn't be happier with them. A good multimeter will do VAC, VDC, Ohms (resistance), Amps and continuity.

06Rinker270

I know Fluke is the best and then Klein but $$$ which I dont mind as long as its well spent and not overkill.  What Fluke do you use?

Handymans342

Handymans342

$90 on Ebay

Handymans342

I also bought a DC Amp meter. Comes in real handy if you need to read your alternator output or what load a DC volt device is pulling. 

Dream_Inn

I have two flukes, one has the clamp on built in.  As and EE, it is kind of my fun.  But you really don't need anything as expensive, just something with AC/DC and ohm check.

Stodge

Like I said, the $5 special from Harbor Freight.  

I leave my oscilloscope and VTVM at home for other fun.  

06Rinker270

I agree that getting a cheap on will do but I am looking for something that does it all.  Believe I am going with this one...any objections?  Thanks for the input everyone.  

http://www.amazon.com/MASTECH-MS2108A-Current-Clamp-Meter/dp/B009CNYJG2/ref=pd_sim_hi_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=1CAKV01G1SM0ZRN9P1J2

MarkB

I don't think you want to get that one. First of all it doesn't say mA, it only starts at 40A, which means the amp rating is very crude.  It looks like that is for more higher amp measurements for larger equipment. If you look at the one Handyman posted, it has mA. For lights, and some small devices, you want to check mA, not A.

06Rinker270

Gotcha.  I will stick to the one Handyman or LaRae posted.  

06Rinker270

MarkB said:

I think I spent about $30 on my multi-meter, and it's been working fine for 3 years. My buddy, a master electrician, used it last year on his boat. He didn't frown.

what one do you have?

MarkB

I have to check. I haven't looked at it for a while. will see tonight.

06Rinker270

swinging back around on this...concluded that the GFCi is bad as I used a tester on it and got nothing.  

I think this will be ok to replace it, any objections?

http://greatlakesskipper.com/leviton-7599-e-black-20a-125v-60hz-ground-fault-boat-gfci-receptacle-w-wall-plate

LaRea

Should be fine.  You can source them locally at any Lowes or Home Depot.

Cableguy Greg

The price that Great Lakes Skipper is good for a 20A GFCI. You can find them at any big box hardware store or electrical supply house.

06Rinker270

Without knowing my boat, is 20A what currently in there most likely?  Cheaper on Amazon.  Great Lakes Skipper shipping is crazy...$15.

Cableguy Greg

I believe the AC circuit is 20A. It is wired with 12/2 boat wire, which is 20A wire. If you go with the 20A plug, it isn't going to hurt it if it is on a 15A circuit. If you put a 15A plug on a 20A circuit, then you have problems.