Yeah, I suppose I could relocate the pump but it hasn't been a big deal so far. I just have to remember to fill the tank if I run the pump dry or break the seal for whatever reason.
LaRea, thanks for those great pics and very good description! My water tank and pump are under my salon, very easy access. I'll have to take one more good look again at how I want to do it because there isn't much of the blue water line in there before it goes off under the floor. So I'm thinking I'd have to move my pump to a different wall and mount the tank where the pump was. This is because of the blue pipe and how short the amount of accessible pipe there is. I overthink all this stuff (yes, I'm an engineer). But if I don't get it the way I want it the first time, I won't be happy!
I'm also wondering if I should use some type of flexible hose after the pump (into accumulator) and then after the accumulator into the hardline. It sounds like this would help with silencing things as well. It would also help for me with some of the tight areas. Something like this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WN5F96/ref=pe_139950_139785260_em_1p_14_ti)
If the flex hose simplifies your installation, I'd say go for it!
Reducing noise from mounted equipment is a tricky business. Flexible hose won't make a difference unless you also change how the pump is attached to the boat. If you're serious about it, post some pix of where you want to mount the pump, and I can give you some suggestions. (I designed vibration mounts in a previous life.)
Thanks LaRea. I'll take a couple pics this weekend. I've also heard that using something like a mouse pad underneath it will significantly reduce vibration. I'll definitely be changing something in there when I figure out how I want to lay it out. I may add a small valve with another hose as well before the pump to allow for easier winterization too.
Here's a quick test you can do. Temporarily remove the four screws that secure the pump to the firewall, so the pump is hanging by the hoses and not touching anything else. Close everything up, run the pump, and see how loud it is in the cabin.
What you're doing is temporarily removing the vibration path between the pump and the hull.
If removing the screws didn't make much difference, don't bother messing with how the pump is attached, because the noise is reaching you via some other path. If it made a big difference, then you *might* be able to find a mounting arrangement that will help.
That's not the correct way LR. The correct method is to drain all the water pressure then set the air pressure to what you want the water pressure to be.
I have a large one at home on my well system and I have to agree with Handy (Oh, I said that again). I know that one you empty the system and set the pressure first.
Isnt there an on/off pressure switch on the pump???? Do you know what that is? If you know the off pressure then that is what you set the tank air pressure at
Right! Ideally, the water pump's low-pressure switch should turn on the pump at the exact moment when the accumulator tank gets empty. So if I knew the pump's switch-on pressure, I could do what you said.
On my pump, I don't know what that pressure is, so I had to find it by trial and error using the process I outlined. That process should work for any system.
The default pressure didn't work well for me. It barely made any change in the cycle time. That's why I ended up using the trial-and-error method. It only takes a couple minutes, and now I'm sure that I'm using the full capacity of the tank.
The default pressure didn't work well for me. It barely made any change in the cycle time. That's why I ended up using the trial-and-error method. It only takes a couple minutes, and now I'm sure that I'm using the full capacity of the tank.
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Boat Name: King Kong
"Boat + Water = Fun"
Boat Name: King Kong
"Boat + Water = Fun"
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
Reducing noise from mounted equipment is a tricky business. Flexible hose won't make a difference unless you also change how the pump is attached to the boat. If you're serious about it, post some pix of where you want to mount the pump, and I can give you some suggestions. (I designed vibration mounts in a previous life.)
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
What you're doing is temporarily removing the vibration path between the pump and the hull.
If removing the screws didn't make much difference, don't bother messing with how the pump is attached, because the noise is reaching you via some other path. If it made a big difference, then you *might* be able to find a mounting arrangement that will help.
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
http://rinkerboats.vanillaforums.com/discussion/3634/re-mounting-the-fresh-water-pump-to-make-it-quieter?new=1
There's a easy trick to tune the system for best performance. All you need is an air pump to adjust the air pressure in the bladder.
1) Disable the accumulator by letting all air out of the bladder.
2) Turn on a faucet at a slow rate so the water pump starts cycling on and off every 2-3 seconds.
3) Count off the time interval between pump cycles.
4) Start adding air pressure to the bladder a little at a time. The time interval between pump cycles will start to increase.
5) Eventually, when the air pressure in the bladder gets too high, the time interval will start to get shorter.
6) The best air pressure is when you have the longest interval between pump cycles.
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
On my pump, I don't know what that pressure is, so I had to find it by trial and error using the process I outlined. That process should work for any system.