Water accumulator tanks -- pro's and con's

2

Comments

  • MarkBMarkB Member Posts: 3,981 ✭✭✭✭✭
    LeRea, nice pictures. By the way, did you raise the galley pump like that? If it runs dry, you may have a difficult time getting it primed again.

    Boat Name: King Kong

    "Boat + Water = Fun"

  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,764 mod
    edited May 2015
    That's the OEM installation.  You are right -- the pump will only prime if the tank is almost full, which puts the tank level higher than the pump.
  • MarkBMarkB Member Posts: 3,981 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Why did they install that way?? Mine is right down at the bottom, mounted to the floor. Can you change it?

    Boat Name: King Kong

    "Boat + Water = Fun"

  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,764 mod
    Yeah, I suppose I could relocate the pump but it hasn't been a big deal so far.  I just have to remember to fill the tank if I run the pump dry or break the seal for whatever reason.
  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,671 mod
    LaRea, thanks for those great pics and very good description!  My water tank and pump are under my salon, very easy access.  I'll have to take one more good look again at how I want to do it because there isn't much of the blue water line in there before it goes off under the floor.  So I'm thinking I'd have to move my pump to a different wall and mount the tank where the pump was.  This is because of the blue pipe and how short the amount of accessible pipe there is.  I overthink all this stuff (yes, I'm an engineer).  But if I don't get it the way I want it the first time, I won't be happy!

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    You could have used push fittings like shark bites as well.
  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,671 mod
    I'm also wondering if I should use some type of flexible hose after the pump (into accumulator) and then after the accumulator into the hardline.  It sounds like this would help with silencing things as well.  It would also help for me with some of the tight areas.  Something like this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WN5F96/ref=pe_139950_139785260_em_1p_14_ti)

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,764 mod
    If the flex hose simplifies your installation, I'd say go for it!

    Reducing noise from mounted equipment is a tricky business.  Flexible hose won't make a difference unless you also change how the pump is attached to the boat.  If you're serious about it, post some pix of where you want to mount the pump, and I can give you some suggestions.  (I designed vibration mounts in a previous life.)
  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,671 mod
    Thanks LaRea.  I'll take a couple pics this weekend.  I've also heard that using something like a mouse pad underneath it will significantly reduce vibration.  I'll definitely be changing something in there when I figure out how I want to lay it out.  I may add a small valve with another hose as well before the pump to allow for easier winterization too.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,764 mod
    edited May 2015
    Here's a quick test you can do.  Temporarily remove the four screws that secure the pump to the firewall, so the pump is hanging by the hoses and not touching anything else.  Close everything up, run the pump, and see how loud it is in the cabin.  

    What you're doing is temporarily removing the vibration path between the pump and the hull.  

    If removing the screws didn't make much difference, don't bother messing with how the pump is attached, because the noise is reaching you via some other path.  If it made a big difference, then you *might* be able to find a mounting arrangement that will help.  
    Post edited by LaRea on
  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,671 mod
    edited June 2015
    ok, here are a few pics...

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Plenty of space
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,764 mod
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,764 mod
    My review after a few weeks living with the accumulator: love it!  It's a simple mod that makes a noticeable difference.  

    There's a easy trick to tune the system for best performance.  All you need is an air pump to adjust the air pressure in the bladder.

    1) Disable the accumulator by letting all air out of the bladder.  

    2) Turn on a faucet at a slow rate so the water pump starts cycling on and off every 2-3 seconds.

    3) Count off the time interval between pump cycles.

    4) Start adding air pressure to the bladder a little at a time.  The time interval between pump cycles will start to increase.

    5) Eventually, when the air pressure in the bladder gets too high, the time interval will start to get shorter.  

    6) The best air pressure is when you have the longest interval between pump cycles.


  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    That's not the correct way LR. The correct method is to drain all the water pressure then set the air pressure to what you want the water pressure to be.
  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,671 mod
    I have a large one at home on my well system and I have to agree with Handy (Oh, I said that again).  I know that one you empty the system and set the pressure first.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,764 mod
    What do you recommend as the best water pressure?  I'll check and see how close I am to that pressure.
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I think 40 PSI is good
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Isnt there an on/off pressure switch on the pump???? Do you know what that is? If you know the off pressure then that is what you set the tank air pressure at
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Im sure DI will agree with me. 
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,764 mod
    Right!  Ideally, the water pump's low-pressure switch should turn on the pump at the exact moment when the accumulator tank gets empty.  So if I knew the pump's switch-on pressure, I could do what you said.   

    On my pump, I don't know what that pressure is, so I had to find it by trial and error using the process I outlined.  That process should work for any system.  
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    You need an inline gauge now. 
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Wouldnt the manufacture of the pump know the settings? I bet you could call the factory. It is probably 20/40
  • JC290JC290 Member Posts: 706 ✭✭✭
    Most bladder tanks have a label on them for air pressure setting
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Still need a guage
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,764 mod
    The default pressure didn't work well for me.  It barely made any change in the cycle time.  That's why I ended up using the trial-and-error method.  It only takes a couple minutes, and now I'm sure that I'm using the full capacity of the tank.
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,764 mod
    The default pressure didn't work well for me.  It barely made any change in the cycle time.  That's why I ended up using the trial-and-error method.  It only takes a couple minutes, and now I'm sure that I'm using the full capacity of the tank.
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    How do you know the default pressures? 
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,764 mod
    Default = whatever air pressure it said in the manual, but I don't recall offhand.
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    No, I mean pump pressures. Before you installed tank the pump cut on and off automatically. Find out those pressures. 
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