Generator wont start

buggyjdav

Had it running yesterday now it won't start. Checked breaker and fuses, cranks but won't start. Any ideas?

Black_Diamond

Which generator model do you have?  Carb or FI?

Stodge

Having the same problem.

Haven't started the diagnostic process yet.  Pretty sure mine is carb.  IT's a 2002 Kohler 5E.  At the beginning of the season I started it.  It ran for 5-10 min then stalled.  Has not started since.  Guessing fuel or a wonky sensor.

Black_Diamond

Ahh the 5e.  I know that fella quite well.  You can read my posts on fixing mine.

#1 the fuel pump is electric- check the connection, mine was bad from the start.
#2 Check the impeller and make sure the seacock is open and the strainer not plugged.  They over heat and shut down fast with these problems
#3 pull the anti-diesel valve and clean it.  See the manuals in the generator section about this. 
#4 try running a fuel line direct into a small gas can and run it from there if it starts.  You can go super generous with either a can of gumout or similar.
#5 there is a fuel filter at the input to the fuel pump too.  Check that.  I removed mine and just stayed with the in-line version.

Good luck.

buggyjdav

I tried starting it a bunch of times without closing seacock, didn't know you had to close it after first try. What should I do? Is there a way to drain any water that may have got in?

Black_Diamond

You want the seacock open.  You do have to close it to clean the strainer though.

I forgot item #1 with the 5e: replace the spark plugs.  there are (2) NGK-BPR4ES I think is the number.  Double check.  Even if they look good, replace them.  These things eat them.

buggyjdav

I have read to close the raw water seacock after first attempt to start it or further attempts pull water into the enging and causes havok. I tried to start it quite a few times without closing the seacock so wondering what to do now to prevent damage 

buggyjdav

I got her running, replaced plugs, inline fuel filter and lubricated choke. Runs like new. 

Stodge

I have a similar issue.  I replaced the plugs and tried to manually work the choke.  I'll swap the filter and try again.

Black_Diamond

Note there is also a fuel filter at the inlet to the fuel pump. I got rid of that one and just use the inline one. 

Stodge

Ah, thanks BD

Weber

I took my carb off my 5E Tuesday night to clean it.  It was blocked up really bad, when I went to remove the float just by touching it with my hands the metal crumbled and broke apart.  The main jet also crumbled when I tried to remove it.

I have had this carb apart every year for cleaning, and was completely surprised by this.  I have been working on motors my whole life and never seen a carb crumble like that.

I bought a replacement which is a newer model carb that Kholer switched to, the switch was to solve some of the reoccurring issues that have had with them.

I was able to get the whole carb assembly, new gaskets, and the inline fuel filter with overnight shipping cheaper than I could order just the carb for locally. 

Stodge

So how the heck does the sound shield come off?  I can open the front and put it aside.  But the piece that covers the back and top is attached to the base of the cover at the back and I have tired everything I can think of to get it detached.  I saw some screws in the top (lid) but didn't think that was the way to get the cover out of the way.  Any thoughts?

Handymans342

Weber, do you think Ethanol had a factor in that? 

Weber

Handymans342 said:

Weber, do you think Ethanol had a factor in that? 

Absolutely!

Weber

Stodge said:

So how the heck does the sound shield come off?  I can open the front and put it aside.  But the piece that covers the back and top is attached to the base of the cover at the back and I have tired everything I can think of to get it detached.  I saw some screws in the top (lid) but didn't think that was the way to get the cover out of the way.  Any thoughts?

You take the 4 screws or bolts out of the top,  then the side and the back will come off as well.

I actually leave the two screws holding the side in, and remove the top and side as one piece.  It makes it much easier to put back in place.

The panels have pins that set into the base pan, sometimes getting everything lined and put back together is pain.

Once you take it off a few times, you figure out how to do it pretty easily.

Stodge

I only saw 2 screws on the lid.  I was afraid they would not line up easily.  But I'll give that a try.  Need to convince the thing to start.  

Thanks!

Weber

I can take some pictures this evening if you needed, I will be heading down there tonight to replace the carb on mine.

Weber

You are correct, there are only two screw bolts on the top towards the back.

Black_Diamond

Where did you order the new carb from?

Weber

Black_Diamond said:

Where did you order the new carb from?

Partsfortechs.com ASAP is the name.

Weber

I replaced my carb tonight and it fired right up, but still had issues surging, I tried adjusting the choke with little success, until I think I adjusted it to much as it wouldn't run or have any effect on it.

So tomorrow I'll buy a new choke...

Stodge

How did you find the correct replacement carb?  Mine needs either a rebuild or a replacement.  I looked on-line and there are a lot of Kohler genny carbs.  Tough to nail down which one is for the 5E.

Black_Diamond

Parts for Techs is good, I have used them too.  You need the S/N of the genset, NOT the engine.

Surging is from running too lean, there is a fuel filter at the fuel pump inlet, it is a pita to get at, I replaed it with a 1/4" NPT barbed fitting, just use the in-line one.  Also check the anti-diesel valve..screws into the carb from the side and has a wire attached to it, pull it and clean it..they are a common problem to go bad too.

Stodge

Found a local place who says they can rebuild the carb.  Fingers crossed.

Weber

Stodge said:

Found a local place who says they can rebuild the carb.  Fingers crossed.

How much are they charging you?  You may be better off buying a new one that has been updated.  New carb cost $240.

Stodge

The quote was $40 + parts.  I took it to them and couldn't identify it.  I need to get a number of the motor on the genny.  Might try giving the carb a bath in carb cleaner first.

Weber

Based on the year of your generator there is only one model it can be which was discontinued and there is an upgraded replacement model.  Part number GM24510 is the rebuild kit $42.60 and 359847 is the whole carburetor $233.87.

You can remove the jets and clean them, also remove the anti-siphon solenoid and clean it for the cost of a can of carb cleaner.   

Stodge

I ended up getting a new carb.  The genny fired up but I need to adjust the idle etc.  

Weber

Stodge said:

How did you find the correct replacement carb?  Mine needs either a rebuild or a replacement.  I looked on-line and there are a lot of Kohler genny carbs.  Tough to nail down which one is for the 5E.

http://www.partsfortechs.com/asapcart/359847-carburetor-assembly-kohler-p-894.html

Here is the one I bought for mine.

Weber

Stodge said:

How did you find the correct replacement carb?  Mine needs either a rebuild or a replacement.  I looked on-line and there are a lot of Kohler genny carbs.  Tough to nail down which one is for the 5E.

http://www.partsfortechs.com/asapcart/359847-carburetor-assembly-kohler-p-894.html

Here is the one I bought for mine.