Haven't started the diagnostic process yet. Pretty sure mine is carb. IT's a 2002 Kohler 5E. At the beginning of the season I started it. It ran for 5-10 min then stalled. Has not started since. Guessing fuel or a wonky sensor.
Ahh the 5e. I know that fella quite well. You can read my posts on fixing mine.
#1 the fuel pump is electric- check the connection, mine was bad from the start. #2 Check the impeller and make sure the seacock is open and the strainer not plugged. They over heat and shut down fast with these problems #3 pull the anti-diesel valve and clean it. See the manuals in the generator section about this. #4 try running a fuel line direct into a small gas can and run it from there if it starts. You can go super generous with either a can of gumout or similar. #5 there is a fuel filter at the input to the fuel pump too. Check that. I removed mine and just stayed with the in-line version.
I tried starting it a bunch of times without closing seacock, didn't know you had to close it after first try. What should I do? Is there a way to drain any water that may have got in?
You want the seacock open. You do have to close it to clean the strainer though.
I forgot item #1 with the 5e: replace the spark plugs. there are (2) NGK-BPR4ES I think is the number. Double check. Even if they look good, replace them. These things eat them.
I have read to close the raw water seacock after first attempt to start it or further attempts pull water into the enging and causes havok. I tried to start it quite a few times without closing the seacock so wondering what to do now to prevent damage
I took my carb off my 5E Tuesday night to clean it. It was blocked up really bad, when I went to remove the float just by touching it with my hands the metal crumbled and broke apart. The main jet also crumbled when I tried to remove it.
I have had this carb apart every year for cleaning, and was completely surprised by this. I have been working on motors my whole life and never seen a carb crumble like that.
I bought a replacement which is a newer model carb that Kholer switched to, the switch was to solve some of the reoccurring issues that have had with them.
I was able to get the whole carb assembly, new gaskets, and the inline fuel filter with overnight shipping cheaper than I could order just the carb for locally.
So how the heck does the sound shield come off? I can open the front and put it aside. But the piece that covers the back and top is attached to the base of the cover at the back and I have tired everything I can think of to get it detached. I saw some screws in the top (lid) but didn't think that was the way to get the cover out of the way. Any thoughts?
So how the heck does the sound shield come off? I can open the front and put it aside. But the piece that covers the back and top is attached to the base of the cover at the back and I have tired everything I can think of to get it detached. I saw some screws in the top (lid) but didn't think that was the way to get the cover out of the way. Any thoughts?
You take the 4 screws or bolts out of the top, then the side and the back will come off as well.
I actually leave the two screws holding the side in, and remove the top and side as one piece. It makes it much easier to put back in place.
The panels have pins that set into the base pan, sometimes getting everything lined and put back together is pain.
Once you take it off a few times, you figure out how to do it pretty easily.
I replaced my carb tonight and it fired right up, but still had issues surging, I tried adjusting the choke with little success, until I think I adjusted it to much as it wouldn't run or have any effect on it.
How did you find the correct replacement carb? Mine needs either a rebuild or a replacement. I looked on-line and there are a lot of Kohler genny carbs. Tough to nail down which one is for the 5E.
Parts for Techs is good, I have used them too. You need the S/N of the genset, NOT the engine.
Surging is from running too lean, there is a fuel filter at the fuel pump inlet, it is a pita to get at, I replaed it with a 1/4" NPT barbed fitting, just use the in-line one. Also check the anti-diesel valve..screws into the carb from the side and has a wire attached to it, pull it and clean it..they are a common problem to go bad too.
The quote was $40 + parts. I took it to them and couldn't identify it. I need to get a number of the motor on the genny. Might try giving the carb a bath in carb cleaner first.
Based on the year of your generator there is only one model it can be which was discontinued and there is an upgraded replacement model. Part number GM24510 is the rebuild kit $42.60 and 359847 is the whole carburetor $233.87.
You can remove the jets and clean them, also remove the anti-siphon solenoid and clean it for the cost of a can of carb cleaner.
How did you find the correct replacement carb? Mine needs either a rebuild or a replacement. I looked on-line and there are a lot of Kohler genny carbs. Tough to nail down which one is for the 5E.
How did you find the correct replacement carb? Mine needs either a rebuild or a replacement. I looked on-line and there are a lot of Kohler genny carbs. Tough to nail down which one is for the 5E.
Comments
PC BYC, Holland, MI
Haven't started the diagnostic process yet. Pretty sure mine is carb. IT's a 2002 Kohler 5E. At the beginning of the season I started it. It ran for 5-10 min then stalled. Has not started since. Guessing fuel or a wonky sensor.
2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX
#1 the fuel pump is electric- check the connection, mine was bad from the start.
#2 Check the impeller and make sure the seacock is open and the strainer not plugged. They over heat and shut down fast with these problems
#3 pull the anti-diesel valve and clean it. See the manuals in the generator section about this.
#4 try running a fuel line direct into a small gas can and run it from there if it starts. You can go super generous with either a can of gumout or similar.
#5 there is a fuel filter at the input to the fuel pump too. Check that. I removed mine and just stayed with the in-line version.
Good luck.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
I forgot item #1 with the 5e: replace the spark plugs. there are (2) NGK-BPR4ES I think is the number. Double check. Even if they look good, replace them. These things eat them.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX
PC BYC, Holland, MI
2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX
I have had this carb apart every year for cleaning, and was completely surprised by this. I have been working on motors my whole life and never seen a carb crumble like that.
I bought a replacement which is a newer model carb that Kholer switched to, the switch was to solve some of the reoccurring issues that have had with them.
I was able to get the whole carb assembly, new gaskets, and the inline fuel filter with overnight shipping cheaper than I could order just the carb for locally.
2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX
I actually leave the two screws holding the side in, and remove the top and side as one piece. It makes it much easier to put back in place.
The panels have pins that set into the base pan, sometimes getting everything lined and put back together is pain.
Once you take it off a few times, you figure out how to do it pretty easily.
Thanks!
2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX
PC BYC, Holland, MI
So tomorrow I'll buy a new choke...
2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX
Surging is from running too lean, there is a fuel filter at the fuel pump inlet, it is a pita to get at, I replaed it with a 1/4" NPT barbed fitting, just use the in-line one. Also check the anti-diesel valve..screws into the carb from the side and has a wire attached to it, pull it and clean it..they are a common problem to go bad too.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX
2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX
You can remove the jets and clean them, also remove the anti-siphon solenoid and clean it for the cost of a can of carb cleaner.
2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX
Here is the one I bought for mine.
Here is the one I bought for mine.