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Engine Alarm - Cooling Issue

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    Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I think I would put in a strainer anyway
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    jkleinjklein Member Posts: 49 ✭✭
    So to bring this conversation full circle. 
    The mechanic finished up today. In total the temp/pressure sender was replaced. A new pump/impeller.  Thermostat and temp sending unit. In his opinion if I am still getting an alarm at high speeds/rpm on a plane, the only remaining problem has to be in the out drive..?

    meaning something must be clogging in the out drive.  This would mean I have to pull the boat and pay all the additional costs.

    the plan this weekend is to run her at wot for  a while and let's hope no alarms. Wish me luck!
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    jkleinjklein Member Posts: 49 ✭✭
    So NO GO!  Within 3 mins on a plane and high rpm - alarm. Even at 3000 rpm and 11 mph alarm. Clearly something is very wrong. Temp as high as 250. 

    Alswagg- Yes Salt Water. The boats entire life. I am going to,pull the boat this week on the hard. Any other suggestions besides the above that could be wrong?
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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,578 mod
    Gotta be the outdrive pickup hose.  Unfortunately, the boat has to come out of the water and the outdrive has to come off.  Been there, done that.
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    jkleinjklein Member Posts: 49 ✭✭
    Everything that can be done in the water has been done. New pump/impeller, thermostat, temp sending unit and temp/pressure sensor. 

    The assumption is what Alswagg and LaRea said. In the out drive. 

    My marina charges $19/ft to haul, stands and relaunch.  You only get 1 of each with the cost of the slip. So $500 just to get the boat out of the water for the mechanic to do the work. My estimate, all in, from beginning of saga to end, is around $5K.  This will happen over the next 10 days. 

    Considering maybe giving up on the 2015 boating season and trying again next year...
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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,578 mod
    Before you take that plunge ...

    It is possible to inspect the end of that hose from INSIDE the boat.  You can reach the fitting where it comes through the transom.  You can't fix it from inside, but you could at least verify that's the problem.  My mechanic did it on mine.  I don't think it took him very long.  
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    jkleinjklein Member Posts: 49 ✭✭
    FINALLY ISSUE RESOLVED!
    The culprit was the pickup hose in the out drive. It was probably 90% blocked.  The mechanic replaced it with the updated hose that supposedly Mercruiser has resolved the problem and the hose doesn't collapse anymore. 

    What at a nightmare. Not sure what the final bill will be. I'm estimating from first alarm through today I might be in $3500-$5k and 3 weeks without a boat?  I will post exact cost once I receive the invoice. 

    Dare  I recommend that people running purely in salt water and boats that are about 10 years old (mine is a 2006) you replace this hose as routine maintenance (maybe in winter during an out drive service). 
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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,578 mod
    Great news!  And you still have plenty of time to get in some serious boating this season.

    What the world needs is a kit to retrofit a different hose connector that won't develop this problem.  

    Also, for the next time this topic comes up:  Can anybody describe how to diagnose this problem from inside the boat?  That could save somebody a lot of time and money. 
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    jkleinjklein Member Posts: 49 ✭✭
    Al - how do I flush the engine and back flush the out drive?  I have never seen a "hose like fitting" to fresh water flush my engine?

    LaRea - Diagnose the problem from inside the boat. 
    1. Temp alarm (solid tone) only at higher speeds and higher RPM
    2. Once throttle down or maintaining no wake speed no temp problem. 
    3. Simultaneously with alarm temp gage goes close to 200

    after impeller, thermostat, and sensor/sender check or replacement, the pickup hose is really all that's left as the culprit. 
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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,578 mod
    That's part of it.  I was thinking more like: "Crawl on top of the engine, find the fitting just above the framitz gasket, remove it with a 15/16" wrench, and look for corrosion."  (Or whatever it is ... I wish I had been there when my mechanic did it.) 
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    rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,267 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Dream- 350 mpi ,2005 model. Dual pickups, both go through strainer first...
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    rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,267 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I have closed cooling for the motor, raw water for the risor and the heads I would suspect. Two water pumps. Both out drive and thru hull go to one line through a splitter, to the strainer and then the pump. Second pump is the for the closed side of the system.
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    rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,267 ✭✭✭✭✭
    sweet! that was one option I was looking for in buying an older boat, sounds like I made a smart decision on that one. I can't find my engine serial number, the sticker on the cover on the top you can't read and I can't seem to get in there far enough to get it off the motor. I did not realize there is a "lower" manifold, I thought you had a manifold and a risor but I really have not dug into all that but need to. I have no idea if any of that has been replaced but from what I have seen so far, pretty sure it has not. Boat had 102 hours on it when purchased last year...thx Al
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