2003 342 FV, 24P 2.20:1 Low wot rpm ( Rinda Snapshots Included)
Wildboating
Member Posts: 957 ✭✭✭
I am going to take another shot at diagnosing my low rpm. My understanding from others who own this boat and the published info I have found state that this boat should run close to 40mph and 5000rpm at wot with the factory 24p props. I have recently just had all 4 heads rebuilt, new gimbal bearings, fuel injectors, fuel filters. The engines are now in top condition and puur like kittens when synced up.
Boat Info: 2003 342FV, 24P props, 2.20:1 B3 Drives, Bottom is clean, new fuel.
Fuel pressure on both engines reports back: 45 during pressurizing with engine off, 40 when pumps shut off with engine off, 38 with engines running at idle.
I have found some water in the separators, which i keep swapping out to remove the water from the tank.
I notice on the port motor 97.97* is wot, and the starboard is 99.11%. Should I be able to reach 100%??
Couple things i want to note, at less than half throttle, the starboard motor on the sync gauge seems to require less throttle forward then the port motor does. Once you go above 50% throttle forward this switches drastically to the port requires less than the starboard to balance. It is very common for the port throttle to be about 55% throttle forward and starboard to be 100% when wot and the engine balance gauge synced.
I have also noticed that when pulling back to approx 55% throttle forward on port motor that I am still able to maintain nearly the same rpm as wot however the throttle position in the ecm knows I am at 55%. There seems to be no new power past 55%.
Here is the ABSOLUTE highest rpm i was able to achieve in my port motor. I state absolute as the average high rpm is about 100 rpm less.
Here is the ABSOLUTE highest rpm i was able to achieve in my starboard motor. I state absolute as the average high rpm is about 200 rpm less in this motor.
I attribute the 10* Manifold Temperature difference to the starboard was recorded first on a first run, the port was immediately after which the engine bay would have been warmer.
Boat Info: 2003 342FV, 24P props, 2.20:1 B3 Drives, Bottom is clean, new fuel.
Fuel pressure on both engines reports back: 45 during pressurizing with engine off, 40 when pumps shut off with engine off, 38 with engines running at idle.
I have found some water in the separators, which i keep swapping out to remove the water from the tank.
I notice on the port motor 97.97* is wot, and the starboard is 99.11%. Should I be able to reach 100%??
Couple things i want to note, at less than half throttle, the starboard motor on the sync gauge seems to require less throttle forward then the port motor does. Once you go above 50% throttle forward this switches drastically to the port requires less than the starboard to balance. It is very common for the port throttle to be about 55% throttle forward and starboard to be 100% when wot and the engine balance gauge synced.
I have also noticed that when pulling back to approx 55% throttle forward on port motor that I am still able to maintain nearly the same rpm as wot however the throttle position in the ecm knows I am at 55%. There seems to be no new power past 55%.
Here is the ABSOLUTE highest rpm i was able to achieve in my port motor. I state absolute as the average high rpm is about 100 rpm less.
Here is the ABSOLUTE highest rpm i was able to achieve in my starboard motor. I state absolute as the average high rpm is about 200 rpm less in this motor.
I attribute the 10* Manifold Temperature difference to the starboard was recorded first on a first run, the port was immediately after which the engine bay would have been warmer.
2003 Rinker 342 Fiesta Vee, 350 Mag MPI, Bravo 3 2.20:1 w/ 22p 4 x4 props
Comments
Battery voltage is low on both motors, but lower on the first shot. I would expect it to be higher at the rpm you are pushing.
You are missing the Fuel injector information?
I know that the suggestions to switch to 22p will help get me closer to published wot rpm's. My question is if I am supposed to be able to do it with the 24P's and others are, how come I can not?
Battery voltage is low, i plan to do some alternator testing this week.
What FI information would you expect to show on a ECM555?
You probably have some bad fuel or water in it. Burn that crap up and put some good fuel from a known good source. Run the engines off a portable tank, and recheck your numbers just make sure you burn a few gallons first.
This problem has been huge this year, I have heard more of this issue than I any year I can remember.
You should be able to see the pulse width of the injector, spark advance, and more information than what your pictures show.
Take a look at the other thread that has a picture of the data.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
So are you saying with 22p you are getting 32mph at 3800-4000 Rpm with 1/2 fuel and trimmed out?
I ask as I too am getting 32-33 mph with 6 people at 4000rpm and half fuel, granted this would be my wot as I can not get past 4000rm. I don't want to drop 2k on 22p if this isn't going to make any difference for me! I am more conserned with the fact that the 350 mag mpi dyno sheets that i have seen show this motor makes about 200-210hp at 4000RPM and 300hp at 4800rpm-49000rpm. If we can't not get to that rpm range we are essentially running 200hp motors. The difference from 4000rpm to 5000rpm would be adding a 3rd engine between both motors.
I too have new plugs, wires, dist cap/rotor, fuel filter, gas water filters. I will look at my fuel lines for any kinks, as that can't be good.
What is your top speed and wot rpm with your 22's and all of this work?
Also, what did you do to correct your throttles being so far out of whack?
I am new to the Rinda however I know see where i can map what i want shown. I figured all available parameters were displayed by default. I will hook up tomorrow and see if i can get some additional data shown.
I plan to run out the fuel in the tank as close to E as possible then pump the rest out soon. I bought the boat 6 weeks ago with 1/8 tank, i have since brought the tanks up to 1/2 twice so the fuel is fairly fresh however I know that the separator still shows water at times. I will change them again tomorrow to see if they are still showing water.
I do not have any hesitation or rough running that I would expect with a water problem hitting the injectors, you suspect a fuel problem still. Where should i be looking?
I owned the boat before the problem occurred so I knew what the boat was capable of doing.
At the rate of improvement I should be back up to full rpm soon with another filter change and some more fresh gas.
I chased my tail and replaced parts that weren't needed. I'm glad I didn't listen to the mechanics who wanted to do major engine work that was not needed.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
PC BYC, Holland, MI