JABSCO Electric Conversion 29200-0120 Quit Working

MarkB

So, when I bought my boat I had them install the Jabso Electric Toilet Conversion Kit.
Has worked well, but now in our 4th season it is giving us hastles. Sometimes turns, sometimes
not. Pops the breaker for vac flush often (yes it's powered via the vac flush switch).

Anyhow, I took it apart, nothing wrong with the macerator.
Was wondering if anyone knows what is going on.
It can only be one of two things - the motor is going, or the power supply is weak.
I am thinking it's the motor, as it never gave me hastles in the last 3 years, and now all
of a sudden ....
I do realize the vac flush circuit is a bit underpowered for the electric head conversion, but it has worked
before without any problems.

Anyhow, before I go spending $500 on a new electric conversion kit, I would like to know
if anyone has any other suggestions.

Thanks.

Michael T

Mark, you're a pretty savvy guy so I guess you have run a bigger gauge of "test" wiring directly from an open electrical source (battery, breaker panel) right to the entry wiring connection of your kit to rule-out a low power situation? We were having ridiculous problems with a boat HVAC system I had as in shutting off, tripping breakers - after 5 weeks of insanity it was - underpowered!

MarkB

Well I went back to the boat and was curious as to why my jumper battery didn't budge the electric toilet kit at all. It turns out I had missed a power button on the battery. The kit turned strong when I applied the voltage. I then went back and tried it under my vac flush circuit power and it worked. So it looks like the vac flush system is a little underpowered but once it's primed the unit works fine. When I took the unit apart and reassembled it lost its prime and it took a stronger source to get it primed again. Anyhow it works now.  In fact it works better than before. Could also be that the force of the direct battery worked the unit in so it runs smoothly now. 

MarkB

All fixed. Needed to run a 10 gauge wire directly from house. The vacflush circuit just couldn't provide enough juice for this kit. It now runs fine. 

MarkB

I put my emergency jumper battery directly on it and it wouldn't turn. So I think it's the unit itself.  But not sure if there's a cheaper way to fix it other than replacing it. 

aero3113

If it is the motor can you remove it and have a local electrical shop rebuild it? Or maybe find a part number on the motor itself?

MarkB

I might have to spend $300 to $400 to rebuild it.  I can buy just the motor but maybe that's not the problem. Maybe something else is putting strain on the motor.  I could end up spending money and not fix the problem. 

I think I'm going to replace it and if it doesn't work, well it has to be the power supply and I will get my mechanic to fix the over the winter. 

Michael T

I see the purchase of some lower number gauge wires in your future! :-)

MarkB

Yes, if it conks out again, I'm going to have to run a direct connection to the battery. Apparently the unit rates at 25 amps (although it doesn't consume as much), but for sure I'm losing amperage over the current breaker, switches, and higher gauge wire. At least that is a $100 fix vs. a $500 fix. The biggest headache will be fishing the new wire to the head, but I'll worry about that only when I need to.

MarkB

Guess what I need to install MT? 

jbounce3

Thanks for all the good advice. I just finished installing the Jabsco 29200-0120 electric toilet conversion  on my Rinker 2009 280EC.   Like others I hooked the wiring to the Vacuum Flush breaker and switch.  With the run of some 30 ft round trip, I used #6 gage wiring.   This required a connection from the batter switch terminal to the breaker as the 12 gage existing wiring would have been inadequate.   I replaced the breaker and rocker switch with 25 amp units.  Now I have the 25 amp breaker, switch and fuse.  After a week on the water and using the toilet we had no problems with flushing.  I must say that we used a bit more water than anticipated so we had to have a pump out on day 4.   

Liberty44140

jbounce3 - you can limit the amount of water that comes in when flushing by closing the through hull valve half way or whatever works for you. I did that on my last boat. On our 342 we just make sure to hit the button in short bursts to limit water. 

jbounce3

Funny you should mention the  problem.  I have exactly the same issue.  I have taken the unit apart and the motor seized.   it is only a year old, just out of warranty.   I think the best approach rather than rebuilding is to order a new unit. I also wrote to Jabsco to express my frustration.

Willhound

I'm currently pondering about whether I want to spring for the $110 for the re-build kit for the 29200-0120 in my FV270 or for about the same $$ just convert it back to a manual twist and lock. The electric conversion came with the boat, and although I like the idea of the macerator blades I find I have issues with it from time to time losing prime, and the thing is NOISY. Sounds like a blender going off in the middle of the night. It is also drawing so much amperage that it shuts off my GPS/Sonar. I should maybe investigate further and see where the P.O. took the power feed from.
Just not sure it's worth the hassle and if the re-build kit will get rid of the noise. Or just go back to manual.

Stodge

Agree on the noise.  And on a better power solution.  I have a dedicated DC breaker for the power to the head.  Sounds like maybe they just found a random hot wire and spliced into it.

Willhound

@Stodge, did it always make noise? In other words...if the rebuild doesn't quiet it down it makes my decision a lot easier. 

Stodge

It wasn't as noisy last season.  Not sure the cause.  I did take it apart but didn't find anything obvious out of place.  On a different note I do think I need to replace the joker valve.

MarkB

Well, I guess noisy is a relative term! LOL. The unit is noisy no doubt, even if it's straight out of the box. I got it mainly so I wasn't having to explain how to pump to each guest that wanted to use the head. It's easier to say, turn dial until you see water coming out and bowl is clean.

Willhound

So @MarkB, although noisy, is it still working for you? You do have a point.  A lot easier for guests (and the Admiral). Maybe I just rebuild it. ??

Liberty44140

I would rebuild. I grew up on sailboats with manual and our Rinker 310 was manual.... no comparison with the electric. Love it. Don't really care about the noise since it is so much better than manual. 

MarkB

I would rebuild it. I sold my boat, but after I fixed it (and the main issue was running a 10 gauge wire directly from the house battery) it worked like a charm. I did open it up, and reassemble, which helped. I wouldn't go back to a pump system.

Cableguy Greg

Here is an electric flush toilet that has me intrigued. The Jabsco Lite flush toilet. It fits on the existing bolt pattern of the manual toilet and it seems to be quieter than the electric conversion. It is a little more money than the conversion kit, but might be worth it.

http://www.xylemflowcontrol.com/marine-and-rv/electric-toilets/58500-series-lite-flush-toilet.htm

Willhound

Nice unit @Cableguy Greg. But $700+ with tax and shipping. The rebuild kit is $100....

tk1973

Cableguy Greg said:

Here is an electric flush toilet that has me intrigued. The Jabsco Lite flush toilet. It fits on the existing bolt pattern of the manual toilet and it seems to be quieter than the electric conversion. It is a little more money than the conversion kit, but might be worth it.

http://www.xylemflowcontrol.com/marine-and-rv/electric-toilets/58500-series-lite-flush-toilet.htm

I'm debating the exact same setup Greg. 

Do you think it will fit? I know they say the footprint is the same. Wondering how to get to beneath the toilet to secure the bolts. 

As well, wondering how do you guys run wires to this thing? I'm a bit of an electrical noob so any assistance would be appreciated. I know I've read the breaker for the vaccuflush is what most people do but at the risk of not enough amperage. But it looks like the closest and easiest thing. 

Cableguy Greg

Willhound said:

Nice unit @Cableguy Greg. But $700+ with tax and shipping. The rebuild kit is $100....

I have a manual toilet, so for me to upgrade, it is worth it.

Cableguy Greg

tk1973 said:

Cableguy Greg said:

Here is an electric flush toilet that has me intrigued. The Jabsco Lite flush toilet. It fits on the existing bolt pattern of the manual toilet and it seems to be quieter than the electric conversion. It is a little more money than the conversion kit, but might be worth it.

http://www.xylemflowcontrol.com/marine-and-rv/electric-toilets/58500-series-lite-flush-toilet.htm

I'm debating the exact same setup Greg. 

Do you think it will fit? I know they say the footprint is the same. Wondering how to get to beneath the toilet to secure the bolts. 

As well, wondering how do you guys run wires to this thing? I'm a bit of an electrical noob so any assistance would be appreciated. I know I've read the breaker for the vaccuflush is what most people do but at the risk of not enough amperage. But it looks like the closest and easiest thing. 

According to Jabsco, it is the same size and uses the same mounting holes. You can run the wires from the engine room thru the area where the AC unit is to the head location. It isn't that hard in the 280EC. There is an accessory breaker in the DC panel where the battery switch is at that isn't used. Now I am thinking about this upgrade over the winter.

tk1973

Interesting. I may hold off until he boat show here in Jan. And see if I can pick one up. ill keep you posted. 

Cableguy Greg

tk1973 said:

Interesting. I may hold off until he boat show here in Jan. And see if I can pick one up. ill keep you posted. 

You know that the wiring diagram for the 280EC is posted on here. It has been an asset for wiring and troubleshooting.

http://rinkerboats.vanillaforums.com/discussion/3038/280-ec-wiring-diagram#latest

tk1973

Ok thanks for that. 

As as far as accessing the bottom of the toilet. Would I have to remove this panel under the head to gain access? Don't really see any other way 

Cableguy Greg

You can get under it by removing the toilet paper holder compartment. 

tk1973

Gotcha. Tha ks