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Stainless seacocks?

Both my head and A/C shutoffs are seized in the open position, so need to be replaced. The ones on there are brass/steel, and are quite crusty looking. Is there a better replacement available, maybe brass/stainless?
2005 Rinker 270 FV Volvo Penta 5.7Gi

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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,627 mod
    The ball valve should be the same material as the thru-hull, which is probably low-zinc bronze.  Look for a valve that is UL Listed and made by a reputable manufacturer.  Plan on spending $50 apiece.  

    You might see stainless valves, but they will specify that they shouldn't be used below the waterline.
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    BellevilleMXZBellevilleMXZ Member Posts: 732 ✭✭✭

    Great thanks. Yeah they look to be bronze.

    2005 Rinker 270 FV Volvo Penta 5.7Gi
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    BellevilleMXZBellevilleMXZ Member Posts: 732 ✭✭✭
    I see they also make some out of marelon?
    2005 Rinker 270 FV Volvo Penta 5.7Gi
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    Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭

    IMO, either the salt water rated bronze as LaRea has suggested or Marelon. Marelon is getting a lot of good press for it's strength and resistance to any form of corrosion including galvanic corrosion. Quality 1 1/4" bronze runs anywhere from $75 to over $100. Marelon are quite a bit less. I'd do a bit of research first. You aren't in salt water so bronze corroding would not really be an issue and it may be stronger than the Marelon.

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    BellevilleMXZBellevilleMXZ Member Posts: 732 ✭✭✭
    Meh, a lot of issues with marelon, from what I read.......I see the groco stuff, is bronze and stainless, that looks good to me.
    2005 Rinker 270 FV Volvo Penta 5.7Gi
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    [Deleted User][Deleted User] Dana Point, California, USAPosts: 0 ✭✭✭
    The best bronze for marine applications is phosphor bronze.

    Andy
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    Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I don't think you can go wrong with Groco as their bronze is reputed to be of a better composition than cheaper brands.
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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,627 mod
    I wonder why your seacocks are corroded after 10 years on a fresh-water boat.  Does the boat have any unusual corrosion problems below the waterline -- outdrives, trim tabs?  Are the seacocks bonded with ground wires?  Maybe they were just low-quality parts.
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    Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    All valves need to be exercised on a regular basis. The ball inside a ball valve is stainless and the seat is nylon. 
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    BellevilleMXZBellevilleMXZ Member Posts: 732 ✭✭✭
    LaRea said:
    I wonder why your seacocks are corroded after 10 years on a fresh-water boat.  Does the boat have any unusual corrosion problems below the waterline -- outdrives, trim tabs?  Are the seacocks bonded with ground wires?  Maybe they were just low-quality parts.

    The handles are all rotten, as they are just plain steel. Yes bonded.... I would assume dampness in bilge caused the rot???......no other issues anywhere, clean boat. They might move, but wasn't going to try while in water...lol
    2005 Rinker 270 FV Volvo Penta 5.7Gi
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    MarkBMarkB Member Posts: 3,969 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Can you remove the valve (obviously when out of the water), spray some WD40 in and let it do its thing, then try turning?

    Boat Name: King Kong

    "Boat + Water = Fun"

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    BellevilleMXZBellevilleMXZ Member Posts: 732 ✭✭✭
    I'll just replace can't be bothered......don't want an issue next year. 
    2005 Rinker 270 FV Volvo Penta 5.7Gi
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    MDboaterMDboater Member Posts: 298 ✭✭✭
    All valves need to be exercised on a regular basis. The ball inside a ball valve is stainless and the seat is nylon. 

    To this end, I have had good luck unseizing valves through repeatedly applying stress in the close and then open directions, each time going a little further in the close direction. 
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    Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The valve for the macerator outlet I could never get loose. I replaced it. Also all my thru hull fittings had to be taken out and resealed as they all weeped a little water.
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