Stainless seacocks?

BellevilleMXZ

Both my head and A/C shutoffs are seized in the open position, so need to be replaced. The ones on there are brass/steel, and are quite crusty looking. Is there a better replacement available, maybe brass/stainless?

LaRea

The ball valve should be the same material as the thru-hull, which is probably low-zinc bronze.  Look for a valve that is UL Listed and made by a reputable manufacturer.  Plan on spending $50 apiece.  

You might see stainless valves, but they will specify that they shouldn't be used below the waterline.

BellevilleMXZ

Great thanks. Yeah they look to be bronze.

BellevilleMXZ

I see they also make some out of marelon?

Michael T

IMO, either the salt water rated bronze as LaRea has suggested or Marelon. Marelon is getting a lot of good press for it's strength and resistance to any form of corrosion including galvanic corrosion. Quality 1 1/4" bronze runs anywhere from $75 to over $100. Marelon are quite a bit less. I'd do a bit of research first. You aren't in salt water so bronze corroding would not really be an issue and it may be stronger than the Marelon.

BellevilleMXZ

Meh, a lot of issues with marelon, from what I read.......I see the groco stuff, is bronze and stainless, that looks good to me.

[Deleted User]

The best bronze for marine applications is phosphor bronze.

Andy

Michael T

I don't think you can go wrong with Groco as their bronze is reputed to be of a better composition than cheaper brands.

LaRea

I wonder why your seacocks are corroded after 10 years on a fresh-water boat.  Does the boat have any unusual corrosion problems below the waterline -- outdrives, trim tabs?  Are the seacocks bonded with ground wires?  Maybe they were just low-quality parts.

Handymans342

All valves need to be exercised on a regular basis. The ball inside a ball valve is stainless and the seat is nylon. 

BellevilleMXZ

LaRea said:

I wonder why your seacocks are corroded after 10 years on a fresh-water boat.  Does the boat have any unusual corrosion problems below the waterline -- outdrives, trim tabs?  Are the seacocks bonded with ground wires?  Maybe they were just low-quality parts.

The handles are all rotten, as they are just plain steel. Yes bonded.... I would assume dampness in bilge caused the rot???......no other issues anywhere, clean boat. They might move, but wasn't going to try while in water...lol

MarkB

Can you remove the valve (obviously when out of the water), spray some WD40 in and let it do its thing, then try turning?

BellevilleMXZ

I'll just replace can't be bothered......don't want an issue next year. 

MDboater

Handymans342 said:

All valves need to be exercised on a regular basis. The ball inside a ball valve is stainless and the seat is nylon. 

To this end, I have had good luck unseizing valves through repeatedly applying stress in the close and then open directions, each time going a little further in the close direction. 

Handymans342

The valve for the macerator outlet I could never get loose. I replaced it. Also all my thru hull fittings had to be taken out and resealed as they all weeped a little water.