Oil Change Pump Advice
Glassguy54
Member Posts: 588 ✭✭✭
After being bent over the engine compartment bulkhead and hand pumping the engine oil out through the dipstick tube at the rate of about 1/2 shot glass or less per stroke, I am DONE with the hand pump! For those of you who like to do their own oil changes, what is the best electric pump out there for doing this job? I have read many reviews of a lot of different pumps that are marketed by the likes of Overton's, West Marine, Walmart, etc. and there seems to be much grumbling about the junk that is out there that just doesn't perform, or breaks down halfway through an oil change. I want something that is not necessarily professional grade (= big bucks and high volume usage), but will perform well enough and last more than a few changes. Recommendations anyone? and thanks in advance.
Comments
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--manual-oil-extractor-6-5l--11047123
I use this with no issues, hot engine gets the oil out in less then 10 mins via the dipstick tube.
2007 300 EC, 350 Mags, B3's, Table Rock Lake, MO
I have used a lot of oil pumps over the years. The key factor to using any oil pump is to remove the oil at normal engine operating temperature (as hot as it will normally get). You would think this would be common sense and standard practice. It is not. Any pump will remove far more oil (and more importantly acids and other contaminants) when the oil is hot. I run the engines for at least 15 minutes to make sure the acids, water vapor and contaminants have been picked-up by the oil.
My marina uses the type that has a pump mounted on top of a white plastic bucket ( I may have a picture that I can post). This type of pump removes the oil via your engine's dip stick. This "rig" gets "most" of the oil out - "most" does not mean all. Jabsco sells one ($179 at Overtons) West Marine sells one ($199). When I had 350 mag and a 383 engines I bought brass L fittings that I installed in the bottom drain plug hole of the oil pans. The first time I did this the marina tech used his pump and declared "that's most of it". It wasn't. About another pint of hot oil ran over his hands when he pulled the plug. He let out a loud yell and called for rags! LOL
He installed that L fitting with a rubber (oil resistant) hose on it that led to a 12v pump that I bought for about $100. It was wired directly to my 12v battery. The pump had a switch on it and a valve to control flow. I screwed the pump to the floor in the engine compartment and could change the oil in 5 minutes (after warm-up).
If I were buying a new pump now I might use a more modern pump such as one by Reverso ($264) or Groco ($299) but there are decent pumps available that are less expensive.
I bought my brass L fittings at Overtons. They used to sell the drain kits for oil pans for about $35.00..... 26163 was for 1/2" X #20 threads for 1996 and older Chevy pans...26164 was for 3/4" X #16 threads for Volvo Penta...36130 was for 14mm X 1.5 threads for metric Ford 350 and 351... 30334 was for 12mm X 1.75 thread for 1996 and newer Chevy pans. Their phone number is 1-800-334-6541.
We had a huge discussion on this topic "way back" and it may be archived.
If Overtyons doesn't sell that kit any longer, you could buy a fitting and hose and make a line for about $25, I would think.
Bottom line:You are right - adding that auto oil removal was the ONLY way I ever got ALL of the oil out and made changing the oil a laugh - one of the best low cost items that I ever put on an engine, or anywhere on a boat.
If I decide to keep our boat for a few more years I see a Reverso model pump that will handle my twin 8.2s in the future!
BTW I used a hack saw to cut a cross hatch pattern in the end of that brass L fitting, only down a bit, maybe about 1/8" from the top. That way even when the T fitting protruded above the bottom of the oil pan a bit the last bit of oil would drain through the fitting. Yeah, I do have OCD.
I have the Jabsco brand 12 volt electric pump. The decals have worn off from use so I don't know what model it is. It consists of a reversible 12 volt pump mounted on top of a holding tank that looks like a 5 gallon bucket. The unit has a long cord with clips for connecting to the boat's 12 volt battery. The pump is mounted on the lid of the bucket. To use the pump you simply connect the cord to the boat battery, slide the pump hose over the engine dip stick tube and the oil is pumped out of the motor and into the holding tank. The unit work quickly...I can empty both of my V-8 Magnums in just a few minutes. To empty the holding tank you simply operate the pump in reverse and the old oil can be pumped out into suitable container for recycling.
I've had it for over 20 years and have never had to do anything to it. It works flawlessly every time. I highly recommend this tool. They are sold at marine suppliers like West Marine and can also be purchased online. Additionally, the pump uses a rubber impeller which can be purchased separately if needed. Although, in all the years I've been using this tool I've not needed to replace the impeller yet.
@Glassguy54 If you do buy the type of oil extractor that utilizes the engine's dip stick tube (like the first two I mentioned above) I highly recommend you do NOT buy the ones that only have a small tube that can only fit inside the engine's dip stick tube.
Instead, get one like @wm61356 suggests that will fit OVER your dip stick tube or that has a fitting that will allow it to screw-onto the garden hose type fitting that is on most newer dip stick tubes.
If you have the version that will only fit on a dip stick tube, and you want to, you can easily retrofit it with a garden hose fitting that will screw onto your dip stick tube. In my experience any type that will fit over or screw onto the dip stick tube will pull waaay more oil than the "tube in tube" type.
Of course, if you have the time and like "tinkering", there is no substitute for a drain pan hose removal system. In fact, for years, a lot of engines came from the factory with these drain tubes already installed. Unfortunately for me, my 2014 8.2 Mags don't have them. So, if I want to install them there will be some serious up-side down work involved. LOL.
Oh, and for the topic, I have the jabsco electric pump and it's been working for about 15 years now :-)
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
I bought this pump off of Amazon and attached a old washing machine hose I had laying around(cut off one end and clamped it to the pump). Instead of using the tube down the dipstick tube I now screw it on the dipstick tube. Works great! Less than 2 minutes and the oil is out.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AOAFP9C/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_1?qid=1449538253&sr=8-1-spell&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=12+volt+iil+pump
https://www.mfrexpress.com/48-washing-machine-hose-elbow-34-fgh-x-34-fgh-p-1593.html?gclid=CN3txdaQy8kCFYEfHwodd5MMbQ
You have to love this forum for great real world advice!
http://www.amazon.com/Jabsco-17850-1012-Premium-Marine-Changer/dp/B001CX0WX4
Go Steelers!!!
Dave
2002 Captiva 212, 5.0 220 hp, Alpha 1, 1.62 gears
Moon Township, PA - boating in the Ohio River
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
I think they may mount them on the transom for you cruisers (with engine rooms and all), but all of the smaller sport boats that I have ever seen with the hose have them connected to the drain plug. It is very convenient in that you just unscrew your drain plug, pull out the hose and take off the hose plug to drain your oil. Now when the hose is sticking out of the drain, the hole is mostly plugged, so you probably don't get much water coming in if you forget the plug and have the hose sticking out - not recommended though as discussed above :-).
http://www.wholesalemarine.com/hose-kit-oil-drain-mercury-mercruiser-32-865281a02.html?gclid=CKS1wraDzckCFUwYHwod9rIDeQ
Dave
2002 Captiva 212, 5.0 220 hp, Alpha 1, 1.62 gears
Moon Township, PA - boating in the Ohio River
Go Steelers!!!
Go Steelers!!!
Go Steelers!!!