SmartCraft

craigswardmtb

I agree with Mark and DI.  The diagnostics and fuel consumption are the reasons I wanted it.  Plus having tachs that actually work would be nice...

jme097

Anyone who installs this in a 280...PLEASE take pictures of your install. Would love to see how you did it and what harnesses (if any, you needed)

Handymans342

Real time fuel usage? I would hate to be viewing that on your boat Dream LOL

jme097

So I am looking at the MercMonitor gauges...are there different levels?

Cableguy Greg

On Mercs website and the online retailers sites, it does appear to have different levels. The Level 2 seems to be a good deal for a single engine boat.

jme097

@Cableguy Greg - After running the numbers (I would want 2 gauges just so I can see more information at once without scrolling through) for 2 gauges, harness and junction box it was just as much as a VV4. VV4 can display more information at once. Think I am going to go that route instead. 

Cableguy Greg

@jme097, I am looking to replace my tach, but get more information. For the price of 2 gauges, VV4 is the way to go. I wouldn't mine the VV4, but I don't want to have to replace my dash to get it to fit.

diggin2day1

Not only can VV4 display more information, but it also sends that information into the NEMA2000 network(like the Mercury Gateway) to be viewable on your Chartplotter. I have a Garmin 741xs which I'll be able to setup to view some of that info on the "corners" of the navigation screen and the rest on the VV4. 

Michael T

You'll also be able to set  a drift alarm function for anchoring peace of mind.  I had a 741 in our 2013 EC 310  and loved it. You have a great combination! 

jme097

I would love to get a new chartplotter but with the current factory installed one already being cut into my dash, I don't want to get into replacing my whole dash haha. I think the VV 4 will be as far as I go haha. I am just going to remove the 5 inch center gauge and cut in the VV4. Unless I decide to go custom dash and move my gauges around haha. Verdict is still out on that. If I did decide to abandone my gauges, what do you do with the harness that they plugged into? Just leave them?

jbschmalz23

I have been working on just that now that my VV7 came. I like what the VVs can do. I think it is a better deal once you factor in the Merc monitor and the price of upgrading the other gauges. I emailed Cory @ Tecnografic with the dimensions on my 280 panel. Looking at about $225 for the custom dash panel. Still debating how I want to go with the layout. I can't wait to get some warm weather to start playing with this stuff!!

jme097

@jbschmalz23  got pictures of the custom dash? I would love to switch mine around when i put my VV in my 280

jbschmalz23

Here is what Corey sent me: "All our panels are manufactured
with 1/4 inch polycarbonate. Edges are rounded, screw holes are recessed.
Texts on switch panels are engraved & backlit, or silk screened. All our
panels have a warranty of five years against fade or delamination. "

I sent him the measurements and that's when he quoted me the $225. They don't have a template for the 280, so I'd have to send my panel in for them to make the new one. I'm thinking I want a plain pane with (2) 2" holes on each side. One for my depth gauge and the other for a nice analog clock gauge. I was thinking that would look classy and streamlined. Not sure yet though. I know VV shows the depth but I think it takes an extra transducer so I was thinking keep the depth gauge. 

I may go to the boat this weekend and see if I can tell if the harness is ran to the dash already or not. From what I read, since it's not DTS , it's not... But merc is telling me it should be. I'm getting curious. Lol. 

jbschmalz23

Went to my storage building today and did a Little crawling around on the boat. I took out the gauge panel. Tons of wires. Wouldn't know if the SmartCraft harness was there or not. Lol. I think I'm going to order the harness. Looks simple enough to run. I see what Greg was talking about with the access panel under the seat and removing the speaker to pull the harness through. Just need some more nice weather! 

jme097

The smartcraft harness is on the engine not behind the gauge cluster. you'll have a harness end on top the engine just sitting there. You'll know when you see it. 

jme097

So I called Mercury again this morning and got a more intelligent tech. He sent me a screen shot of what each engine is capable of with the SC harness and such when Vesselview is installed. I have attached it below. Looks like I am installing the paddle wheel, part number 859223 (to get water temperature and speed) and the harness adapter that goes from the analog fuel sender to the engine ECM harness as well. Picture is below for anyone that wants to look. Also, there are 3 different adapters available for the fuel adapter that goes from the analog fuel sender to the ECM harness, 3 pin and 2 different 6 pins. Picture below as well. 

My question is how do the current OEM gauges receive the speed reading from if there is not a pitot sensor installed?

jme097

Question for you guys...just ran across the Mercury "Tri'Ducer" for Smartcraft. Has depth. speed and water temp on in one. Anyone have any familiarity with this? 

MarkB

So most transducers will do depth and temp. Speed is the extra. Not sure it's worth it though. They aren't accurate. They use a spool and based on RPM they convert that to speed. Plus they measure speed through the water - so if there's a current it adds (or subtracts that). If you're interested in how fast you are going relative to hard surface, then it will be really off.

jme097

Maybe I'll just do the depth and water temperature sensor then. Need to figure out exactly what I need as far as NMEA goes (parts list) to import the speed to the VV. Everyone I talk to gives me different answers. 

LaRea

Paddle-wheel speed transducers are used mainly by fishing boats for low-speed trolling, when you need accurate speed-over-water to keep your lures at the right depth.  

MarkB

LaRea. The surface speed tells us nothing. We want to know speed at the lure. Our lures could be anywhere from 10 ft to 120 ft below the surface.  We normally use wireless probes that connect to our lines and measure the currents down below at the same depth as the current. 

We never look at surface speed.

Handymans342

Now Mark, that's cheating

MarkB

And 50 years ago they said using fishing line is cheating.

Michael T

I would just use an electronic avatar to go down  paint the fish and shoot a probe into it. Then bring it up or shoot one air onto it and attach a float buoy and go after the next one...... Why not use some technology? 

jbschmalz23

I am having the guys at Tecnografic do my dash panels for the new vv7. I decided to go with a new wood grain for all the panels. Does anyone know if the switches can be removed from the switch panel in the picture below? I need to send just the panel without the switches. 

diggin2day1

Yes they will... Unscrew panel, lift up and unplug each switch(would be a good idea to label each one before unplugging!!).... Once they are unplugged, from the bottom side squeeze the tabs and remove each individual switch body.  

jbschmalz23

Awesome! Thank you!!

frodo13056

Just an FYI - I installed the Smartcraft setup on my 2008 320 a few years ago and found out that apparently Mercruiser engines with the 555 ECM are all factory programmed to be PORT engines. I had to re-program the starboard ECM (I bought the Rinda software and tools) to get both engine's data to display on my Lowrance HDS displays. When I connected everything up, my HDS display would only show the PORT engine data and a quick call to Mercury Marine gave me the reason why. It didn't really matter since I was planning on purchasing the Rinda stuff anyway - just sped up the purchase.

jme097

For us guys with the single engines, we shouldn't have to worry about that. But will find out for sure once I get my MercMonitor hooked up!

jbschmalz23

Got all my panels out to send to Tecnografic tomorrow. Just need to pick a new woodgrain for everything. Thank you all again for the tips on everything. Cant' wait to get it all back in a few weeks. One question I did have.. I noticed when I took the panel off that holds the breaker buttons, one of the buttons is broke and does not push back in. It's labeled something for the TV. I was going to order one, but noticed there are different AMPS. Is there a standard size or are they all different under there?