Rinker 192 restoration

blackcreek

Finished up the port side polish today.
First pic is after wet sanding and before buffing.

After buff and wax



Started on the fueling system by pulling the carb. Here is what happens when gas sits in a carb for four years.


Main jets were clogged with varnish and the power valve was glued shut.



The accelerator pump linkage was not working due to way to much paint applied at the factory. The pump arm is pushed by a spring linkage and the spring was compressing but not moving the pump arm. I had to crack the paint by pushing rather **** the arm. You can see where the paint finally let go and allowed the arm to actually pump gas.







 

Michael T

@blackcreek, IMO you are doing one h*ll of a job. This is the best all-round resto of a Rinker I have ever seen....and that's a loooong time! Congratulations on an A-1 job!

gtyee

Beautiful job! Boat looks new.

MarkB

You want to do my boat when you're done here??

Handymans342

Are you sure you are not a boat flipper?

blackcreek

MarkB said:

You want to do my boat when you're done here??

No if that is your boat in the picture! My arms are falling off.

blackcreek

Handymans342 said:

Are you sure you are not a boat flipper?

My wife thinks I am. This will be boat number 12 for me since 1980 or so. It's been ten years since I bought my last boat which was an abused mastercraft prostar 205. The mastercraft was actually in worse condition than the rinker. It was sitting on blocks in a farmers field with no cover on it so it needed everything redone inside and out. After wet sand buff and wax.

Interior completely rotten before.


After new interior and carpet. Vinyl done by larrys trim shop while I cut in all new carpet and fixed the motor etc.


I still own this boat as it was a special edition LT-1 equipped motor which will rip your arms out.
 
 
 

Handymans342

Nice! I bet Rowboat would want that motor!

Michael T

@blackcreek.....beautiful work! You are definitely THE BOAT WISPERER!!!

blackcreek

Finished the carb work today. New power valve,accelerator pump,inlet needle valve and seat,and accelerator pump check valve.
Here is the crap that came out of the accelerator pump.

Metering block before and after.



The holley kit comes with two power valves the 2.5 size goes on the 4.3 motor and the 4.5 size goes on the 5.0 motor.



While I was at it I flushed the fuel tank with 5 gallons of gas and a can of seafoam then jumped the fuel pump relay and pumped it all out and replaced with 10 gallons of non ethanol gas.



I am waiting on water pump bearing and seal shipment so it might be a few days until I try to start the motor.

Michael T

@blackcreek.....great job and glad to see you're wearing gloves - keeps the parts clean and more important solvents/fuel off your hands.

blackcreek

Well crap. Death in the family has kept me out of state a lot in the past few months with no chance of working on the boat. Finally got back at it and the news is not good. Water in the oil is not a sign of good things to come. I got her running but boat idled rough and just did not sound right. After a compression check I had bad numbers on one side of the motor and water in the cylinders. 

I started with pressure checking the block for cracks or blown head gasket and the motor held 40 psi for hours with no leak down. I then pulled the manifolds and was met with rust trails on one side. It turns out the riser on that side had gone bad by either freezing or just rusting through and was letting water leak into the cylinders. The motor actually hydro locked and stripped the starter gear after one of the shutdowns. I pulled the manifolds and saw rusty valves so I ended up pulling the motor for tear down. All three cylinders on the bad side were pitted badly from water in the cylinders. The head and bores on the other side looked like brand new. Block is at the machine shop for a bore inspection to see if a .030 over will work.

blackcreek

Block and heads back from machine shop. Had to go .030 on the bores to hit clean metal. Crankshaft measured as new and head on bad side got three new valve seats.

blackcreek

Besides brass freeze plugs everything on the Volvo block seems to be bone stock Chevy s10 4.3 vortec motor. Even the head gaskets were stock gm. 19 dollars for each head gasket from rock auto. That is the stock parts number. Even stamped for marine use.

MarkB

Excellent pictures.

NRath

Nothing better than a pile of clean parts ready to go together!  Very nice.

Funny, so the ground-pounder rebuilding his S-10 would get head gaskets with "Marine" marked on them?!

Black_Diamond

Wow. Impressive. 

blackcreek

NRath said:

Nothing better than a pile of clean parts ready to go together!  Very nice.

Funny, so the ground-pounder rebuilding his S-10 would get head gaskets with "Marine" marked on them?!

I could still read the gm part number on the original gasket. It comes back to a 2000-2004 Chevy s10. All the other gaskets and block parts were just standard gm nothing marine about them. My guess is the cam is probably the standard truck cam also but I did not look for a part number on it. If you order a 2004 s10 oem head gasket from rock auto what you see is what you get.

blackcreek

This is the weak point of the Chevy high torque starter. The motor spins fast and is geared down through a set of planetary gears. The nylon gear strips pretty easily and in my case water in the cylinders hydro locked the motor after shutdown. New set of starter gears was only 15 bucks delivered which is way cheaper than a new starter from Volvo.

Handymans342

So they have not upgraded those gears?

Dream_Inn

Wow, that is sure a great way to save from throwing away a starter.  Handy is right, those gears don't look like they'd withstand much.  Maybe there is a reason for it (although, most people wouldn't know to just replace the small plastic gear inside - ha, maybe that is the reason)

Handymans342

Same plastic parts were used in the chevy tranny

blackcreek

Handymans342 said:

So they have not upgraded those gears?

http://www.aspwholesale.com/stationary-gear-dr-p7659.html

go to my link and click on the application tab for the part. In my case it fits all Volvo penta 1996 to 2007. I assume that is all Volvo penta with a Chevy v6 or v8 with that type starter.

For anyone who wants to tackle a rebuild or fix of a starter or alternator......

You can get any starter or alternator part for a rebuild/fix from asp wholesale but it takes a little digging. You need to know the part number or make and type of starter/alternator then when you narrow down to what you need you can click on the application tab for the part and see if it fits. Or you could just call and they might help you out.

blackcreek

NRath said:

Nothing better than a pile of clean parts ready to go together!  

A clean pile of parts all put together?

NRath

blackcreek said:

A clean pile of parts all put together?

Ding- maybe so!  Hearing the clean pile purr is definitely better!  I do get a kick out of the build, though.

blackcreek

Finished up the motor and ran compression check before putting it back in the boat this morning. Had to quit by noon time due to the heat wave.

chamberb

Black Creek, not sure what you retired from but that is some amazing and thorough work. No shortcuts and it looks great!

blackcreek

I am a retired pilot, cars,boats,motorcycles are just a hobby. I enjoy doing this sort of thing. My dad gave me the keys to the family station wagon with a blown motor when I was 15. It took me six months but I managed to get it running again and drove the car all through high school. Been working on cars ever since. Besides electronic ignition and an electric fuel pump not a whole lot has changed on the basic Volvo carb motor from a 66 Pontiac. If you unbolted the fuel canister and crank mounted water pump it would look exactly like any 60's era GM grocery getter under the hood.

blackcreek

It's alive!

raybo3

Looks sweet......