Anyone else find the cockpit seat too low ???

BellevilleMXZ

I find the seat too low on my 270.....I'm always sitting on the flip up part of the seat.I'm 6ft, so not like I'm short.  Did some measuring, and grabbed some 4in square alum tube, and am going to raise it. That will make it about the same height and with the seat flipped up. Anyone else find this or am I just wacked.....lol

Handymans342

Its the bow rise

randy56

yes, and the flip up thing is to narrow, and it hurts my skinny ****. Cannot sit on it. Seems I have to run 4000 rpms to get the nose down far enough to see good. Don't like running it that hard long term. I'm just shy of 6ft. Are you going to raise the whole seat?

BellevilleMXZ

Yep whole seat. I'll post pics after

Michael T

I guess it helps to have  wide beam (mine) and lots of horsepower (the boats) as both the Admiral and I can see fine at any speed. I should add that the 350/360 models have a very high helm platform which I guess makes the difference. @BMXZ, sounds like you have a great idea. Remember us when you hit the big time.....and thinking about your Rinker is always a great idea!

[Deleted User]

I got rid of the factory bench and bolster on my FV250 because it was too low. I replaced it with a Cape Cod captain's chair and pedestal from Westmarine that allows clear unobstructed vision over the top of the windshield whilst seated. A huge improvement to safety and comfort!
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/todd--cape-cod-seat-with-cushion--9413469
Andy

Michael T

....what's the Admiral sitting on?

Handymans342

Got a picture of that seat installed Andy?

LaRea

You can't use weight distribution and trim tabs to bring the bow down?  Have you thought about adding more anchor chain for balance?

craigswardmtb

I struggled with that on my 270 as well. I loved all the headroom down below but it didn't help visibility up above. 

randy56

LaRea, thought of trim tabs after season was over, I need to replace trim tab indcater, the one thats on there, does not give you posision of the tabs, (non lighted one) once i figure out which one to buy. After getting up on plane, push tabs up, then,I count to 4, thats how long it takes to move tabs to level.

BellevilleMXZ

LaRea said:

You can't use weight distribution and trim tabs to bring the bow down?  Have you thought about adding more anchor chain for balance?

I don't find the bow high, I just find the seat set low. When sitting, even my knees are bent a lot.

Michael T

@BMXZ I like the idea of raising the whole seat. I can think of several ways to be able to raise the entire seat at different heights: using two screw mechanisms welded to a solid plate that is screwed/bolted to the main seat frame, using two standard captains' chair adjustable rises like in sport boats that could be welded to a plate attached to the bench bottom....there has to be a lot of ways to do that cheaply that works well.

BellevilleMXZ

Michael T said:

@BMXZ I like the idea of raising the whole seat. I can think of several ways to be able to raise the entire seat at different heights: using two screw mechanisms welded to a solid plate that is screwed/bolted to the main seat frame, using two standard captains' chair adjustable rises like in sport boats that could be welded to a plate attached to the bench bottom....there has to be a lot of ways to do that cheaply that works well.

I'm going to try the 4in square aluminum tube.....its just slightly bigger than the seat frame, so good support. Seat uses 2, 3.5 in wide adjuster rails. I'll put it between the seat adjuster and boat. Polished up it should look good.

Michael T

If it works to your satisfaction you could remove it and have it powder coated white. it would be functional and great looking. I winder if one of those variable jack plates for an outboard would work LOL

BellevilleMXZ

Michael T said:

If it works to your satisfaction you could remove it and have it powder coated white. it would be functional and great looking. I winder if one of those variable jack plates for an outboard would work LOL

Good point on the powder coating.....

MarkB

I always cruise with the half seat up.

BellevilleMXZ

YesI have been doing that, but I find it uncomfortable.....I think raising it will be perfect

[Deleted User]

The bench on the FV250 isn't really wide enough for two adults and I prefer to be the sole person at the helm anyway even with passengers on board. So I removed the bench and built a 5/8" mahogany platform for the pedestal mount. I used doubled up wood under the pedestal for additional strength. See photo.  This created extra storage space, enough behind the helm chair to store the cushion for the v-berth.

In another thread topic, lack of headroom at the helm was discussed. I have 6'7" below the canvas for standing, which I do most of the time using the curved front of the helm chair as a bolster. It is at a perfect height for that. I also replaced the standard small wheel for a 22" Destroyer model, making steering from the new higher seating position possible. This involved moving the Teleflex gearshift/throttle assembly up and to the rear a bit, but that's another story.
Andy

frodo13056

Bellville, it's certainly not just you - I had the same issue on my 272, 270 and 320. Back when I had the 272, I bought 4 of the square throwable life preservers so I just add a couple to the helm seat and now I can see just fine. I can add one or two, depending on if I want to have eyes above the windshield or below the windshield  - so they are fully adjustable :-)

lionelz

I just sit on a fender it's great it's comfortable and adds a shock absorber if you happen to hit a wave.  Simple and effective

Michael T

.....all very creative ideas but I would HAVE to design a variable lift either using a twist knob and gear or electric or sliding bolts with pins.

In an older, I think it was a Bayliner, I made a seat raising rig for a friend that was very cheap.

We had threads machined at the end of 4 SS rods to accept two nuts and a lock washer in between them - at the end of each rod. These rods were about 1/2" thick and about 8" long?

These were bolted to the four corners of the bottom of the seat base plate. I can't remember if we later reinforced it with 1/8" aluminum plates or not.

Two pieces of 1/8" aluminum plate about 20" long x 4" wide were placed (like runners) down the two sides of the fiberglass boat mold that supported the seat.

4 holes were drilled into these. The four "pins" that were bolted to the seat base slid up and down in those holes. My friend had 4 or so shims - different thicknesses of spruce from 2'' to 6" that he could place under the seat to elevate it.

It worked like a charm. It was solid, variable and cost less than 50 dollars for everything.

Personally, I like these kind of projects.

BTW just thought of it now but we could have drilled multiple hopes I the plates for fore and aft adjustment. Just lift, drop and shim.

But, if it was mine I'd look for something more exotic like an electric lift that worked with the sliders.....yes, retirement works. 

alger34

All good ideas. I have an 07 fv 250 and the seat is way to close. I'm 6' 2" and I have to stand to drive the boat. It's a terribly uncomfortable set up. Not enough room to adjust the seat back any further.

JoeStang

I'm 6 foot and the seat in my 276 is fine by me. When seated I'm looking through the windshield with no major obstructions, and with the bolster flipped up I'm just above the windshield. That's really perfect because it's 100% view but it still keeps the wind off my face. 

BellevilleMXZ

Michael T said:

.....all very creative ideas but I would HAVE to design a variable lift either using a twist knob and gear or electric or sliding bolts with pins.

In an older, I think it was a Bayliner, I made a seat raising rig for a friend that was very cheap.

We had threads machined at the end of 4 SS rods to accept two nuts and a lock washer in between them - at the end of each rod. These rods were about 1/2" thick and about 8" long?

These were bolted to the four corners of the bottom of the seat base plate. I can't remember if we later reinforced it with 1/8" aluminum plates or not.

Two pieces of 1/8" aluminum plate about 20" long x 4" wide were placed (like runners) down the two sides of the fiberglass boat mold that supported the seat.

4 holes were drilled into these. The four "pins" that were bolted to the seat base slid up and down in those holes. My friend had 4 or so shims - different thicknesses of spruce from 2'' to 6" that he could place under the seat to elevate it.

It worked like a charm. It was solid, variable and cost less than 50 dollars for everything.

Personally, I like these kind of projects.

BTW just thought of it now but we could have drilled multiple hopes I the plates for fore and aft adjustment. Just lift, drop and shim.

But, if it was mine I'd look for something more exotic like an electric lift that worked with the sliders.....yes, retirement works. 

I wondered about making it move up and down, but then realized, I don't know when I would ever want it low anyway. By raising it, to me anyway, it will be "normal" height to me. Guess I'll find out this spring! Seat is out and getting tube marked out now. 

BellevilleMXZ

alger34 said:

All good ideas. I have an 07 fv 250 and the seat is way to close. I'm 6' 2" and I have to stand to drive the boat. It's a terribly uncomfortable set up. Not enough room to adjust the seat back any further.

Yeah it is kind of close, I also wish it went back further........I think also by raising it, it will go back an inch or two more as a bonus, as its the angled seat back that stops it going further. I'll know probably this week.

diggin2day1

BellevilleMXZ- I have a few questions about the square aluminum tube...What wall thickness and length is it? Where did you get it from? And if you don't mind me asking, how much was it? Think I am going to do the same thing to my 270... I'm 6' tall and very uncomfortable sitting or standing while operating. 

BellevilleMXZ

its 3/16 wall.......got a 3ft piece and cut it in half. Was 20$.....went to a large metal supply place and luckly was in the scrap pile, as typically they sell lengths.

diggin2day1

Wow, great deal! Thank you!

Michael T

I have painted a LOT of aluminum. If you decide to paint prep it first and I'd use a primer or the paint will not stick in some areas and orange peel in others. I used to spray the primer I was going to use on a rag and thoroughly wipe down the aluminum to get the surface milling residue off it. You won`t believe the black natural by products on aluminum. Wiping it with the SAME primer or paint you are going to use afterward prevents rejection as you are wiping it with what will follow..... if you get my drift. LOL

diggin2day1

It's happening!!! Got my 1/4" thick 4x4 aluminum  I was so excited when I saw this mod, I ordered the aluminum immediately. Going to be a great improvement.  I'll finish it up this morning and move on to wash/waxing.