kohler 5e problens

Dream_Inn

Yes, Plenty of room in my 400 for working on the genny.  Although, you'd still have to remove the engine to get the genny out (I think).

Sure sounds like you need somebody better to work on it!

CrewLounge

Sounds like a bad connection somewhere in the the power to the coil. I think it starts on primary when starting but then reverts back to mag power to power the coil. Maybe your wire from the mag is shorted out

Dream_Inn

If it was power to the coil, it should still run even on the other cylinder.  I say that because I had a bad coil and it still ran on one cylinder until it was under a large load (or that coil just broke down at that point).

An issue I had a few years ago was very similar and the problem (after trying many things) was the valve was too tight.  It finally at one point would just not start.  I was told this was something common.  Was it throwing any black smoke at all thru the exhaust?

Black_Diamond

++ to Dream: that 5e will run on one cylinder and sound fine till you load it and then it dies.

I believe the valve adjustment is covered in the manuals (posted on the site here) too.

If it will not generate any AC at all, then the problem has to be on the gen side.  it just unbolts, other than the brushes and connectors, be rare for the windings to go out.

rinker342cr

Ok got the call... the brushes  one of them is not even there from the rust when I bbought this boat came with 240 hours and its in like new condition... so so far ive replaced every pump... rusted fresh water, macerator and a few other things so now to figure a way to I dunno lol but def buying boxes of corosion x

Black_Diamond

Brushes: score!  lol

Liberty44140

I had the same problem with the gas 5e on my 2001 310fv. Would start but when I let go of the start button she quit. No power was coming out. Sorry to tell you this but my generator did have to come out of the boat and I had to have the stator rebuilt ($500) and I had to buy a new rotor ($1300). Water had gotten in to these parts which are essential to making electricity. In order to remove the genset from that boat they had to remove the heat exchanger, alternator, and something else from the port engine. All in all it cost $5k. Wasn't fun. 

frankiesdoggies

It's the control board it needs to see power to stay running look for burnt relay its a common problem

Black_Diamond

The #1 problem with generators: not run enough. 

Michael T

@BD... VERY true, bad for the engine and worse for the generator windings as they can accumulate moisture and corrode. BTW, I'm sure everyone on the list knows to run the generator under load to heat the windings up nicely. The HVAC will do or the microwave plus another item ...kettle etc. As long as you hear the motor start to work!

Glassguy54

We rented an 85ft houseboat on Dale Hollow Lake in Tennessee last June and the Marina told us to just run the genset (a Westerbeke) continuously as the fuel savings from starting & stopping would be negligible. We followed that advice and it was certainly welcome to come back to a nice, cool air conditioned houseboat after a full day playing on the lake in near 100 degree temps.

rasbury

Have not seen any comment about maintenance on this- did you change the plugs, is it old fuel and is it non ethanol fuel....I always go the the worst as being the problem and often it is something minor...especially if it ran before you put it up. I was trying to run mine before I did any service on it (long story but had to happen) and it would run a few and cut off- did my plugs and filter, also found that the anode in the cooling system was completely gone- well crudded up inside the heat exchanger- point being, take care of the normal maintenance before jumping off the cliff!

Stodge

I was having trouble with my 5E and ended up replacing the carburetor to get it running.  

rinker342cr

Update..... the impeller blew up so.I.changed it.... now the generstor.turns on.and.runs for 7 seconds and shuts off done.this thousands.of times.... cant get it to workagain.. any ideas because I call.the ripp off tech.guy 

Liberty44140

This is an electrical output problem. Has anyone here with a 342 ever removed the generator without removing an engine? When I had a 2001 310 I was told that i must remove the port engine to get the generator out for the issue that i mentioned in an earlier post. I called randy Rinker first and he told me that all we had to do was remove the alternator, heat exchanger and something else and the genny would come out. He was right, we removed the generator from the 310 without removing an engine. I am assuming the 342 is the same??? If so you should look to remove it and get it in to the shop of a good tech. 

rinker342cr

I fixed the video problem.. it was the brushes.... but  it was working fine then the impeller blew out and I changed the impeller and now it runs for 7 seconds and shuts off it doesnt stay on 

Black_Diamond

I bet the impeller pieces plugged the heat exchanger. You have to remove the anode and back flush. Make SURE you use the right hose to backflush or you will flood the engine with water. 

rinker342cr

Black diamond the anode is the one on top with some wires pluged on right? Well if I remove that therers no access to the  water... what about if I throw pressure by the hoses that go to the impeller thing? 

Black_Diamond

The anode is on the heat exchanger (round tube). It looks like a brass plug towards the bottom (hex head). Just unscrews. To back flush, find the outlet water hose and disconnect, use a water hose to back flush. The pieces will come out the hole where the anode was. It is messy. Should solve that problem you have. 

rinker342cr

No go... did the back flush and everything fine ... still only runs for 7 seconds and shuts uoff it does generate thou

Black_Diamond

Is it pumping water out the exhaust?  There is a plastic coupler that drives the raw water pump, if that fails you'll flow nothing. 

Is your oil level to the FULL mark?  Check without screwing the cap in. They are very sensitive to oil level too. 

rinker342cr

Yeah shoots plenty of water out the side and huge presure on either side of the heatexchanger and oil level is fine remember all sensor I put in brand newwwwww carb was rebuilt something is telling it to shut off even put the fuel pump direct and same problem... fuel presure problems? I unplug it and does the same runs for 7 secs I guess it uses all the fuel loaded into the card so its none of those issues something is telling it to shut off 

rinker342cr

All this started when the impeller blew and it ran dry untill it shut off by its self I guess because I noticed it was off turned it on and started shutting off every 7 secs and thats when I noticed the impeller blew.... but chnaged now... good pressure in water hoses... but shuts off every 7 sec

Black_Diamond

Maybe your water temp sensor got damaged in the overheat?

rinker342cr

When u just think uthat it cant get any worst.... I smelled burning cables as rush out for thw water hose open the engine comparment and found this I dought it has anything to do with the last issue because tech says thats 110v stuff

raybo3

It that the "relay" board. You can order a new one and its easy to install. I once had my voltage regulator go bad and burned up my micro wave oven, galley refrig, TV gain amp, and some other stuff. It was a real PITA. The regulator was a board similar to that one and was easy to change out. Flashed the genny and all was good. I guess the point of this is that yes that could be part of the original problem. Good luck and keep us posted. 

Black_Diamond

You can get those parts at partsfortechs.com

as a safety side note, never use water for a fire in your engine compartment. You should have a fire extinguisher rated for electrical/gasoline, in the USA these are type B&C, more common are the ones rated ABC.  A halon type is good too.