Hot water heater hose outlet back to engine corroded

06Rinker270

Hi everyone,

Started engine and looked in engine compartment to find water flowing out of water heater.  After further investigation I see the outlet for the hot water heater that connects to the hose going to engine has corroded.  Why does water go from the engine to hot water heater?  I was running water system while this happened.  Turned water system off, tried engine again and water continued to pour.  Shut engine off immediately.  Guess I have to open up the hot water heater to fix.  Any advise and help is appreciated.

Handymans342

It heats up the water in the tank like a heat exchanger

06Rinker270

So water is constantly being pumped through there?  Meaning without that hose connected I can't run my engine.

Bayrunner

Remove the hose from the heater and put a plug on the end of the hose.  That's the way mine was done.

Handymans342

if its there fix it

aero3113

I don't think you want to plug the hoses, disconnect and clamp them together with a double barbed fitting. This way water will flow. With it set up this way you will still be able to use shore power to heat your water. You can leave the connections open on the heater.

06Rinker270

Thank you everyone.

So with the hoses going into the hot water heater that is used for when I'm not on shore power?

And if I use a double barbed fitting I can then use the engine without a worry.

Here are some photos, the hose coming out of the water heater was completely clogged.

BellevilleMXZ

wow.....guess I better look closer at mine!! Salt or fresh?

aero3113

Yes, just hook the two hoses together and you will be good to go.

randy56

we boat in some bad water, don't drink it/amazing

BellevilleMXZ

Yes connect hoses together and your good to go.

06Rinker270

Brackish water.  Anyone know what size hose that is?  Didn't measure. 5/8?

Eventually I will return the system back to the way it's suppose to be.  Anyone replaced one of these?  Probably call Attwood.

jklein

Hi 06Rinker270. I had the same problem plague me all last season. My engine ran fine yet I was halted because  the water heater/heat exchanger hoses from the engine corroded and let go like yours. 

I run in Boston / salt water. I actually ran for hours without knowing the hose had broken and was pumping 100 degree saltwater into my bilge and ultimately my cabin - flooding the mid cabin birth. 

i had sea tow bring me in and we connect the intake and exit hoses like other readers suggested. Again this was a temporary fix with no hot water unless I was plugged in. Eventually we ordered a new Atwood tank, and reconnected everything. Sadly I still have a small drip from the fresh water/hot water red hose leaving the tank but can easily address that. 

That at hot water tank has given me more problems than it's worth. Honestly why do I really need hot water in a boat for the issues the tank has given me. 

06Rinker270

@jklein wow my friend that is scary.  After this happened I thought about exactly what happened to you.  What if I was on a long trip?  I'm glad all ended well with you.  How did you find out? See the water in the cabin?  Scary man.

Why did you have to replace the whole until?  I don't think ill need hot water on the hook.  I also dont like things to not work properly.  

Michael T

I'm with Al re- servicing. I'm seeing way too much posting of corrosion on different boating parts and wondering if proper lay-up procedures are being conducted by some of the techs at marinas?

BTW the posting of re-painting of drives by @bella-vita was awesome. There are so many guys at the marina where used to store my boats for the winter, that got a few chips and dings and then ignored them year after year. pretty soon they had a massive and expensive mess on their hands. It's so important IMO to get right at chips and damage to drives and when you do prep and paint it like @bella-vita!

06Rinker270

Yes I have been getting the boat winterized.  Isn't antifreeze just ran through them?

Also there is a nozzle on the tank with a tube running into the bilge.  Will that drain it?

Michael T

Yes it will drain it - at least it did on my former 310 and 360s.... and the antifreeze and flushing should help. The crud in the water lines at marinas is another reason I used the cheap KDF in line carbon filter ($29)!

06Rinker270

Thing is until now I have never used the fresh water system at its full capacity.  I just got done sanitizing the tank and was in the process of cleaning out the lines when this happened.  I was not hooked up to a hose.  I had the engine running while I was emptying the first round of water.  I had both hot and cold water running(although I never turned on the hot water on panel)

Dream_Inn

Most of the time around those hoses aren't removed for winterizing.  Pink stuff is just ran thru them while on muffs (I kinda like that word too Al).  I had the same thing happen on my prior 310.  Only reason I found it before hand is I was using the heater bypass for winterizing and bumped that hose and it came off.  Got lucky!  & let me tell you, that water heater in the 310 is a real pain to change.

@MT, this has nothing to do with the water at the marina.  It has all to do with the water the boat is in.

Michael T

@DI you must have a lot better water than what I see around me...mineral content, crud in lines :-(  Lucky you!

Dream_Inn

@MT, I just wasn't sure how the fresh water would affect the inlet/outlet on the water heater that actually goes to the engine and uses either raw water or antifreeze?  But yes, our fresh water at the marina is pretty decent.  I don't see any crud in the lines.  I do use a charcoal filter for the fresh that goes in the boat, but not for washing it.

06Rinker270

Amazed the clogged line didn't cause an issue sooner.  So you guys think the whole water heater needs to be replaced?  

Dream_Inn

If you want to use the heating from the engine, then yes it will need replaced. 

craigswardmtb

Something new to check as my water heater definitely has a little bit of corrosion around the area where the hose connects.  I never thought about that hose while winterizing as I figured antifreeze was making it through there while winterizing the engine.  It must be as it hasn't exploded yet.

craigswardmtb

@06Rinker270 glad to see I'm not the only one that gets that white jelly looking stuff on their water heater.  It makes me think I better check the outlets condition quickly though.  Will the hose pour in if not running but disconnected while the boat is in the water?  With the water pump not running I would suspect the answer to be no, right?

06Rinker270

What is that white stuff?  Nasty.  @craigswardmtb no water will pour in while the engine is running.  Also I dont think any water will pour in while the water pump is on as its not the same line of water.  I was told if I double barb the hose I will still be able to use the hot water system.  I will just need to replace eventually.  Not sure I ever will as its probably safer without it.  Just goes to show, 10 year old boat, change all the hoses.  Im doing that asap.

@Alswagg notes taken, thank you.

Times like this make me want to add a bilge pump alarm.  Anyone do that?    

Handymans342

This is only a problem with fresh water cooled engines. Engine antifreeze goes thru mine and I like having hot water while out boating without running the genset. The corrosion looks like galvanic. Maybe you could switch to Mylar or something else. My hot water heater lasted 12 years before the tank went out. I believe the tank is aluminum. 

MarkB

Handy, my engine is fresh water cooled, and I get hot water off the engine while out boating. I'm not sure I understand what you are saying.

Handymans342

Mark, was talking about the white stuff and the corroded fitting

MarkB

Oh okay.

Handymans342

Thanks Al, maybe I will hire you.