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Removing caulk/ port side hatch cover- 342

WildboatingWildboating Member Posts: 957 ✭✭✭
i am trying to remove the cover on the port side to access the door tracks for repair/cleaning.  I have the screws out but the caulk is like a permenant weld to this panel.  Is there a trick to getting this panel off aside from heavy prying?  I'm afraid the fiberglass will break. 
2003 Rinker 342 Fiesta Vee, 350 Mag MPI, Bravo 3 2.20:1 w/ 22p 4 x4 props

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    partlowrpartlowr Member Posts: 119 ✭✭
    Sounds like it's 3M 5200 and not really caulk, it's nearly impossible to remove.
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    MarkBMarkB Member Posts: 3,969 ✭✭✭✭✭
    If it's 5200, you'll have to cut it out with a sharp knife. Obviously be careful not to scratch the gelcoat.  You may want to put thick masking tape or even duct tape down to protect the gelcoat.

    Boat Name: King Kong

    "Boat + Water = Fun"

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    partlowrpartlowr Member Posts: 119 ✭✭

    You will have to buy a couple cans of Anti-Bond which removes polyurethane adhesives...5200 is a polyurethane adhesive. Here is a link.

    http://www.westmarine.com/buy/anti-bond--anti-bond-2015--P001174804


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    WildboatingWildboating Member Posts: 957 ✭✭✭
    Oh boy, my fears confirmed. I can't access all areas well as it is so close to the slope of the windshield. 
    2003 Rinker 342 Fiesta Vee, 350 Mag MPI, Bravo 3 2.20:1 w/ 22p 4 x4 props

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    partlowrpartlowr Member Posts: 119 ✭✭
    MarkB said:
    If it's 5200, you'll have to cut it out with a sharp knife. Obviously be careful not to scratch the gelcoat.  You may want to put thick masking tape or even duct tape down to protect the gelcoat.
    He should try the Anti-Bond first, it works, I have used it on cured 5200. It takes time and effort but it wont damage hull or most surrounding materials and softens the 5200 up.
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    MarkBMarkB Member Posts: 3,969 ✭✭✭✭✭

    That's a good point. Will anti-bond pentrate the filling, or do you remove some 5200 and then re-apply the anti-bond?

    Boat Name: King Kong

    "Boat + Water = Fun"

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    Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    B_D has done this work. You may want to PM him
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    WildboatingWildboating Member Posts: 957 ✭✭✭
    Well,  I was able to get the trains out of the upper track without having to remove the upper track or the fiberglass cover.  The bottom track i removed and cleaned really well along with the plastic trains from the door slider.  After cleaning i discovered part of my door issues was due to the door rubbing on the inner fiberglass panel, I decided this was due to the plastic trains wearing on the bottom.
    I ended up shimming the bottom track up and adding washers between the door and train's on the upper track.. The door FINALLY slides easily!  So glad to have that black grease out of the track and it working with one hand.  The PO had put a graphite grease in the door tracks which ended up everywhere and was so dirty / dried up.

    2003 Rinker 342 Fiesta Vee, 350 Mag MPI, Bravo 3 2.20:1 w/ 22p 4 x4 props

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