II that's the entire rig then I'd see what those holes were for.
If it was absolutely necessary to retain them I'd see if I could run a liquid sealant through them, still keeping their function. I used to own a painting company so I know there is plenty of that product available. Then I'd plug the holes temporarily and waterproof the h*ll out of that exposed transom lay-up.
I have seen those end cap set-ups on most smaller boats but assumed cruisers had better systems. I'm pretty sure I have seen different assemblies on a lot of other brands that went right through the transom protecting the lay-up.
When Al gets a moment he will probably comment and that will be the final word LOL
I don't have much more time to stay on the hard to finish the work, so for now I will leave those open and concentrate on installing the new drain plug with proper sealant. by the way 5200 would take up to 9 days to cure , so for now I will use 4200 take 24 hrs to fully cure . thanks everybody for the Infos Paul
First thing I think looking at this, why the heck would you move the drain plug anyway? If there is a problem with it leaking, that should be a much easier fix than moving it and drilling another hole in the transom? Plus, if you move it higher, it won't drain out of the water? What am I missing here?
French - just check the 5200 cure time ... yes for full cure maybe 7 days, but I'm pretty sure it is cured sufficiently to drop in the water after 24 hours. I don't think it needs to be fully cured.
Mark, talked to the people at 3M before immersion 3 to 4 days but no guarantee, the recommend 4200 fast cure 24hrs since that drain plug has no stress apply to it.
ah, misread "remove" vs. move, my bad and your English is fine. Considering most in my country don't seem to have mastered the English language, I'd have never thought English was not your first language! I know parts of Quebec do speak French...
Agree with @rasbury. I always just put Teflon tape on my drain plugs. never a problem. IMO if Teflon won't seal it well enough there is something wrong.
By the way the boat is on the trailer in uphill location the angle is about the same as it is on the step, I notice a few drops of water coming out of those hole, so I guest it is better to have those open so it could drain to the drain plug.
Comments
II that's the entire rig then I'd see what those holes were for.
If it was absolutely necessary to retain them I'd see if I could run a liquid sealant through them, still keeping their function. I used to own a painting company so I know there is plenty of that product available. Then I'd plug the holes temporarily and waterproof the h*ll out of that exposed transom lay-up.
I have seen those end cap set-ups on most smaller boats but assumed cruisers had better systems. I'm pretty sure I have seen different assemblies on a lot of other brands that went right through the transom protecting the lay-up.
When Al gets a moment he will probably comment and that will be the final word LOL
by the way 5200 would take up to 9 days to cure , so for now I will use 4200 take 24 hrs to fully cure .
thanks everybody for the Infos
Paul
Boat Name: King Kong
"Boat + Water = Fun"
talked to the people at 3M before immersion 3 to 4 days but no guarantee, the recommend 4200 fast cure 24hrs since that drain plug has no stress apply to it.
i guest you did not follow the entire thread, or maybe my English is not good enough I am not relocating my drain plug just installing a new on.
Thanks Al and Mt and everybody
Paul