@Seazop- I see your in Tarpon Springs....I bet you know a lot about the little islands out around where the river goes into the gulf heh? We went to Dunedin last summer with the intent of visiting 3 rooker and some of the other islands, instead we watched 27" of rain fall sitting in the marina for a week....will have to look you up for local info as we for sure want to come back to the area. Hope your install goes well! What a mess! Have you figure out the total cost yet? I'm scared to death of this for sure...mine is an 05.
Ok, so I spoke with the owner of C.L Mattson who said not to use strips of marine mat as I planned. Owner stated I should glob 5200 sealant on the bottom of the tank leaving the center section bare. This way there is an air gap under the whole tank to allow water and condensation to drain.
Rasbury, sorry you only saw rain while you were here, let me know when you make it back here and maybe we could met up.
that tank looks like is should be on display at a museum. Please bear with me cuz its 430am and I aint awake. How come you didnt just go with a fuel bladder? build a smoothe surface where the bladder would live and put sides around it made out of fibreglass to hold it in place?
Boat is back in the water, started right up and ran great. I'm having a guy re-fiberglass the interior this Monday and it should be ready for carpet by Wednesday.
Im getting ready to pull my tank out of my 242. I wish I had seen the leak last year when I installed my new motor, but at least I know how to pull the motor out now.
Starting the removal of a bad tank in my '01 242. So far it seems about the same as Seazop's procedure. I'll do my best to update this thread as things progress. A couple of days ago I had a conversation with a company "Aero Tec Labs" in New Jersey. They manufacture bladder tanks to spec and told me to give them a good scale drawing of the existing tank with all hose, vent, sender locations and they can make a bladder to fit. According to them the bladder can be compressed/folded to half its size for installation. so---- planning to access the top of the tank, cut out about 60-70% of the tank top, clean, smooth and line with some rubber sheeting then install the bladder in the old tank skeleton for required support. As a backup Also contacted Florida Marine Tanks (OEM) to inquire about original tank - no response after one week.
I'm a bit puzzled with your access to your tank- you cut out what I would call the fire wall ahead of the motor to pull it out? Is that not structural and can you rebuild that as strong as it was as one piece? What a job and mess...I started a thread some time ago about using a bladder like someone mentioned above- not sure if you can do that without still removing the tank with the baffles inside the tank- not like you can get in there and start grinding on stuff and not blow yourself up! Will be interested to here how @bsylvest does with it as like handy said, we will all be dealing with this. Heck, might be my new line of work!
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Andy
Ok, so I spoke with the owner of C.L Mattson who said not to use strips of marine mat as I planned. Owner stated I should glob 5200 sealant on the bottom of the tank leaving the center section bare. This way there is an air gap under the whole tank to allow water and condensation to drain.
Rasbury, sorry you only saw rain while you were here, let me know when you make it back here and maybe we could met up.
Please bear with me cuz its 430am and I aint awake. How come you didnt just go with a fuel bladder? build a smoothe surface where the bladder would live and put sides around it made out of fibreglass to hold it in place?
I posted a couple pictures with no problem. Try again and let me know if you have a issue....
Boat is back in the water, started right up and ran great. I'm having a guy re-fiberglass the interior this Monday and it should be ready for carpet by Wednesday.
Floor starting to go back in.
2007 280 Rinker Express 6.2L B3
Go Steelers!!!