I got it right?! That's amazing. I was sitting here wishing I took more pictures and videos. Did anyone else get non-draining cup holders? Ours have black foam glued down in the bottom, and when it rains some of them fill up from what splashes around the cover. I'd like to replace them with SS with drains and possibly lights, link them all together, and have the water go overboard. Although the more I think about it I could quickly resolve the cupholder full of water issue with a drill bit - I just prefer to keep water out of the boat, if possible.
I just got home and looked at the pictures from when I purchased my boat. There are 12 in the cockpit area that are stainless and 2 on the swim platform jump seat. Yes, @Dude_Himself , you got it right!!!
2008 280 Express Cruiser, 6.2MPI, B3, Pittsburgh, PA "Blue Ayes" Go Steelers!!!
Single-color lights are easy. With multi-color lights, you have to run new 4-conductor wire. The pro's do solder and heat-shrink for each connection, and I followed that advice. It's tedious, but not difficult if you don't mind crawling around inside your boat.
Single-color lights are easy. With multi-color lights, you have to run new 4-conductor wire. The pro's do solder and heat-shrink for each connection, and I followed that advice. It's tedious, but not difficult if you don't mind crawling around inside your boat.
It's even more fun doing it anchored out near and island somewhere... that's where I usually do all my work. The thinking behind it is I pick a day where no one wants to come out and just go out myself, have a drink or two and spend the time slowly enjoying the scenery and the work together. May take all day to rewire some speakers or swap out a stereo, but that's okay when you've got no where to be!!
Are all the Rinker cup holders the same size? I think I am going to add these soon along with my cabin lights. Also how did you remove the adhesive to remove the old cup holders, fishing line? What sealant did you use for the install, 5200?
Do not use 5200 for the cup installation. If you do, they won't come out unless you really, really want to work at it. I would use 3M4000UV.
2008 280 Express Cruiser, 6.2MPI, B3, Pittsburgh, PA "Blue Ayes" Go Steelers!!!
I used heat shrink connectors similar to these. The wires from the LED's in the cups are REALLY thin and yes routing the wires cup to cup was an interesting feat in and of itself. Get a good fish tape.
I used the 4 strand wire for the led strip light and extended all the wires then connected them below ran two wires to the courtesy light on the starboard side I think I’ll replace the two at the helm and hook up to the accessory switch
A little night shot, with all cup holders LED aswell with the below swim platform LED
Are those platform lights underwater or mounted on the platform? Been toying with the idea of just attaching on the underside of the platform so no holes below the waterline.
A little night shot, with all cup holders LED aswell with the below swim platform LED
Are those platform lights underwater or mounted on the platform? Been toying with the idea of just attaching on the underside of the platform so no holes below the waterline.
That is the drain plug done, the light above the swim platform, every floor light in the cockpit, and all the cup holders. I didnt want to put any holes either so i baught a few drain plug lights and chose that one. Which looked to me the safest 1 lol.
I about to become the next member of the led cup holders. I am going to install 8 stainless steel light ups & 2 stainless steel non lights. I went thru this weekend & was able to get all of the old cup holders out. They were not afraid to use plenty of caulking, LOL
Question 1. What gauge of wire should I use, from reading thru, I should use heat shrink connectors. Question 2. I have an acc switch next to the keys that is not hooked to anything at this moment that I would like to use. I am thinking at starting at the forward port cups, going down the side to the back corner cup, cutting thru the engine bay, up the starboard side to the helm cups, then ending in the switch. Is this possible? I have removed the ice maker & crawled up the side before, . I think if I do this, I do not have to create any additional holes, correct? I did see that a few have tapped into the courtesy lights, if I did it that way, can I take the bulbs out & still have the cup holder lights work? Or will removing the bulbs create an open circuit. We have never used those lights.
Question 3. I will zip tie where possible, can I use a high quality duct tape, (gorilla tape) along the port side to keep the wires tidy, will the tape wear out over time? That side is well protected from the weather.
Question 4. If I am going to use the acc switch, do I run both the red & black wires all the way to the switch or the black to the battery ground.
I installed mine and wired them to the courtesy lights except the one at the helm I have them on a separate switch I don't even like to have the dash lights on when traveling at night
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Go Steelers!!!
http://www.duskyonline.com/PD-1-p-marine-pluming.html
At some point, I'll borrow a good camera to shoot some pics and video. Cell-phone cameras are terrible for showing how LEDs really look in a boat.
Go Steelers!!!
A little night shot, with all cup holders LED aswell with the below swim platform LED
What brand of LED cup holder are good quality?
2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
I went thru this weekend & was able to get all of the old cup holders out. They were not afraid to use plenty of caulking, LOL
Question 1.
What gauge of wire should I use, from reading thru, I should use heat shrink connectors.
Question 2.
I have an acc switch next to the keys that is not hooked to anything at this moment that I would like to use. I am thinking at starting at the forward port cups, going down the side to the back corner cup, cutting thru the engine bay, up the starboard side to the helm cups, then ending in the switch. Is this possible? I have removed the ice maker & crawled up the side before, . I think if I do this, I do not have to create any additional holes, correct?
I did see that a few have tapped into the courtesy lights, if I did it that way, can I take the bulbs out & still have the cup holder lights work? Or will removing the bulbs create an open circuit. We have never used those lights.
Question 3.
I will zip tie where possible, can I use a high quality duct tape, (gorilla tape) along the port side to keep the wires tidy, will the tape wear out over time? That side is well protected from the weather.
Question 4.
If I am going to use the acc switch, do I run both the red & black wires all the way to the switch or the black to the battery ground.
I am open to any tips or suggestions
Thanks!