best place to buy a crate motor
duane.mosley
Member Posts: 317 ✭✭✭
i am shopping for a crate 383 to re-power my 06 250 and need to know where to buy? where to stay away from? the prices that i am seeing on line are varying from 3 grand to 5500 for a long block. although the fully loaded mercury 6.2 looks really sweet, i am working with Volvo Penta. i have considered just sending my 5.7 to the local premier engine builder and having them convert to a 6.2 but haven't talked to them yet about their marine engine experience. any and all advice appreciated.
Comments
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/
These guys are good
OK, I know it sucks.....but that some funny **** right there.....lol
i was curious about that very same thing. i am still doing my research on what i want, and what needs to be done to make it happen. due to your question i started researching some more and found this place talked about on iboats.
https://www.obd2allinone.com/mefituning.asp
if it were me, and it isn't, but if it were- I'd dump any volvo parts and pieces and opt for merc. so what if the outdrive remains volvo? there are no electronics to it- it's a piece of mechanical gear operated by cables... it could care less what language the engine speaks.
this is what I would do- and it's done by speedshops everywhere who build their own engines and dial them up w/o touching the computer (and which are intended for track- NOT road use, where perfect stioch ratio's aren't needed, required, or wanted)... caveat: PROGRAMMING is still better, and the right way to do it- but this method is almost as good....
you need a wideband o2 sensor and you need to tap the smaller pipe exiting your risers (before water is included into the exhaust stream). you need to bump the delivery rate of your injectors to compensate for the larger displacement/volumetric flow. bruce at fiveomotorsports.com can steer you in the right direction- he's a pretty knowledgeable fella where injectors are concerned.
this is a FOR INSTANCE, not gospel: If you are currently running 22 pound injectors @ 43.5psi (emerging industry standard pressure for rating injectors) you're delivering somewhere in the neighborhood of 248 to 252cc per hour of fuel... a move to 24# injectors @ the same pressure will give you somewhere in the neighborhood of 260cc.... but there is a problem- the characteristics of the spray change (not just the volume) when you play with pressures or size of the openings...
a computer changes the duty cycle (how long the injector is open) and, in relation to the camshaft position sensor, changes the 'when' injectors fire (the sync). if you use your current computer program and you're in need of greater delivery (with larger engine) you're going to need larger injectors. period. or, greater fuel pressure, which is harder to do...
with the wideband sniffing exhaust, you can sniff just one bank of the engine to dial in the required injector size- and if you introduce a much larger injector, you can introduce an adjustable pressure regulator to dial in the pressure through the larger injector to get it within specs... you're likely going to want to see a 13.5~14:1 air to fuel ratio instead of a (cars) 14.7:1 perfect stioch. it can be done by using the engines lack of o2 monitoring in the exhaust against it.
I would just rebuild the engine yourself TBH, they are some of the easiest engines to work on. Literally the simplest engine designs. Depending on what is wrong with it.
What is wrong with your current engine?
Great video, interesting to listen to your engine.
what do the others look like?
Double @212rowboat's HOLY CRAP!
Well , oil pump is at back, and the bearings get better, the further you go back towards the pump.......oiling issue. Did I see a POS fram orange filter in a pic u posted?... What oil did you use, and how often changed? I would cut open oil filter and see what inside looks like, plugged, collapsed, etc. Oil pickup not loose?
Ok must have been someone else pic with the fram. Cut it open and post pics if you can, be interesting to see if anything looks bad. Oil pump drive look ok? What about inside of oil pump.
I will add one thing, Its always best to change the oil at the end of the season. The oil collects and forms contaminents, and acids......when left in the engine over the winter, can cause pitting/delamination on the surface of the bearings.
http://www.wilmink.nl/Clevite/Clevite_lagerschade_tech_info.pdf
Good info here......maybe compare to the better bearing u have left