best place to buy a crate motor

duane.mosleyduane.mosley Member Posts: 317 ✭✭✭
i am shopping for a crate 383 to re-power my 06 250 and need to know where to buy? where to stay away from? the prices that i am seeing on line are varying from 3 grand to 5500 for a long block. although the fully loaded mercury 6.2 looks really sweet, i am working with Volvo Penta.  i have considered just sending my 5.7 to the local premier engine builder and having them convert to a 6.2 but haven't talked to them yet about their marine engine experience. any and all advice appreciated.
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Comments

  • randy56randy56 Member Posts: 4,083 ✭✭✭✭✭
    If I recall you were having trouble a couple week's ago, You now have diagnosed, your engine needs replaced? Woof, how many hours were on it? 
    Boat Name : 

  • BellevilleMXZBellevilleMXZ Member Posts: 732 ✭✭✭

    http://www.michiganmotorz.com/


    These guys are good

    2005 Rinker 270 FV Volvo Penta 5.7Gi
  • J3ffJ3ff Member Posts: 4,054 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Welcome to the dead motor club... new boat name = "Miss Mymoney"
  • BellevilleMXZBellevilleMXZ Member Posts: 732 ✭✭✭
    J3ff said:
    Welcome to the dead motor club... new boat name = "Miss Mymoney"

    OK, I know it sucks.....but that some funny **** right there.....lol
    2005 Rinker 270 FV Volvo Penta 5.7Gi
  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Al doesn't that outfit from Texas ( MSD ?) make a flash kit to re-program the Volvo?
  • duane.mosleyduane.mosley Member Posts: 317 ✭✭✭
    Alswagg said:
    Who is going to reprogram your ECM? Volvo never offered a 383 are you just going to guess and assume the fuel program will be sufficient?  It won't be correct. Will it run? Probably but not at its optimum efficiency 

    i was curious about that very same thing. i am still doing my research on what i want, and what needs to be done to make it happen. due to your question i started researching some more and found this place talked about on iboats.

    https://www.obd2allinone.com/mefituning.asp




  • youstolemybeeryoustolemybeer Member Posts: 246 ✭✭✭
    Im old school. Rebuild it yourself. Would be cheaper for you and would give you satisfaction that YOU did the job and not someone else.  
  • 212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,591 ✭✭✭✭✭
    there is a shop out of Cali that does Merc PCM programming.  Apparently, they're pretty good.  I've never heard of a volvo crew, but then again I've never looked real hard, either.  

    if it were me, and it isn't, but if it were- I'd dump any volvo parts and pieces and opt for merc.  so what if the outdrive remains volvo?  there are no electronics to it- it's a piece of mechanical gear operated by cables... it could care less what language the engine speaks.  :smile:

    this is what I would do- and it's done by speedshops everywhere who build their own engines and dial them up w/o touching the computer (and which are intended for track- NOT road use, where perfect stioch ratio's aren't needed, required, or wanted)... caveat: PROGRAMMING is still better, and the right way to do it- but this method is almost as good.... 

    you need a wideband o2 sensor and you need to tap the smaller pipe exiting your risers (before water is included into the exhaust stream).  you need to bump the delivery rate of your injectors to compensate for the larger displacement/volumetric flow.  bruce at fiveomotorsports.com can steer you in the right direction- he's a pretty knowledgeable fella where injectors are concerned.  

    this is a FOR INSTANCE, not gospel:  If you are currently running 22 pound injectors @ 43.5psi (emerging industry standard pressure for rating injectors) you're delivering somewhere in the neighborhood of 248 to 252cc per hour of fuel... a move to 24# injectors @ the same pressure will give you somewhere in the neighborhood of 260cc.... but there is a problem- the characteristics of the spray change (not just the volume) when you play with pressures or size of the openings... 

    a computer changes the duty cycle (how long the injector is open) and, in relation to the camshaft position sensor, changes the 'when' injectors fire (the sync).  if you use your current computer program and you're in need of greater delivery (with larger engine) you're going to need larger injectors.  period.  or, greater fuel pressure, which is harder to do... 

    with the wideband sniffing exhaust, you can sniff just one bank of the engine to dial in the required injector size- and if you introduce a much larger injector, you can introduce an adjustable pressure regulator to dial in the pressure through the larger injector to get it within specs... you're likely going to want to see a 13.5~14:1 air to fuel ratio instead of a (cars) 14.7:1 perfect stioch.   it can be done by using the engines lack of o2 monitoring in the exhaust against it.  
  • F1100F1100 Member Posts: 292 ✭✭✭
    Are these engines MAF or MAP sensor based, that will determine alot.

    I would just rebuild the engine yourself TBH, they are some of the easiest engines to work on. Literally the simplest engine designs. Depending on what is wrong with it.

    What is wrong with your current engine?
    1993 300 FIESTA VEE TWIN 5.7L ALPHA GEN 2
  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Mercury re-manufacturing if switching to Merc. Is there a Volvo owners forum? Is there an engine rebuilding shop or better yet a shop that rebuilds for power (would have a dyno) near where your live and be able to do this for you?
  • duane.mosleyduane.mosley Member Posts: 317 ✭✭✭
    edited August 2016
    here is a link to a video i posted on you tube for everyone to here what my motor sounds like.  pulled the intake tonight and all push rods, rockers  and valve springs appear to be fine. got late on me so i haven't pulled the lifters to check them more thorough but none of them appeared to be collapsed. i will have to pull them tomorrow when i get home from work.

    https://youtu.be/6rtn2xYIb90

  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Great video, interesting to listen to your engine.

  • duane.mosleyduane.mosley Member Posts: 317 ✭✭✭
    edited August 2016
    Any ideas as to what the noise is? Seemed like a lifter but not looking that way. oil pressure hold steady at 40 lbs and goes up with acceleration of throttle. I'm going to just go ahead and pull the engine and dig a little deeper
  • NavyCTRCNavyCTRC Member Posts: 303 ✭✭✭
    no rythym to it.  Strange noise indeed. 
  • BellevilleMXZBellevilleMXZ Member Posts: 732 ✭✭✭
    Sounds like spun rod bearing, and piston hitting the head....u reving it a bit when it knocks?......Sucks :-( .....how many hrs?
    2005 Rinker 270 FV Volvo Penta 5.7Gi
  • duane.mosleyduane.mosley Member Posts: 317 ✭✭✭
    486 hours on the boat, we've put about 100 hours on since we purchased the boat last march

  • duane.mosleyduane.mosley Member Posts: 317 ✭✭✭
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Hmmm, now what would cause that to happen with low hours? 
  • 212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,591 ✭✭✭✭✭
    holy crap....

    what do the others look like? 


  • duane.mosleyduane.mosley Member Posts: 317 ✭✭✭
    #1 as you see is toast and of course #2 was scarred pretty good, #3 was starting to go. #4 #5 #6 had a faint scratch as if a piece of metal flake got in. # 7 & #8 were fine. no signs of uneven wear on 4-8. good amount of crud(metal shavings) caked on the oil pan and around the oil pump pick up tube. there was a good amount of carbon built up on several of the pistons, black soot is one thing, but chunks of soot built up on the surface of several of the pistons. i will get a pic posted
  • 212rowboat212rowboat Member Posts: 2,591 ✭✭✭✭✭
    what do the cylinder walls look like?  does the head still have the spark plug for that cylinder in there?  if I were to venture a guess I'd blame predetonation on that kind of carnage.... which could also impact the others in lessor severity the further away from it... injector?   
  • duane.mosleyduane.mosley Member Posts: 317 ✭✭✭
    surprisingly the cylinder walls look good. i ran a hone through them to check them before it goes to the machine shop. this is #1
  • duane.mosleyduane.mosley Member Posts: 317 ✭✭✭
    edited September 2016
    #3 up top and #2 below.
  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
  • BellevilleMXZBellevilleMXZ Member Posts: 732 ✭✭✭
    edited September 2016
    #1 as you see is toast and of course #2 was scarred pretty good, #3 was starting to go. #4 #5 #6 had a faint scratch as if a piece of metal flake got in. # 7 & #8 were fine. no signs of uneven wear on 4-8. good amount of crud(metal shavings) caked on the oil pan and around the oil pump pick up tube. there was a good amount of carbon built up on several of the pistons, black soot is one thing, but chunks of soot built up on the surface of several of the pistons. i will get a pic posted

    Well , oil pump is at back, and the bearings get better, the further you go back towards the pump.......oiling issue. Did I see a POS fram orange filter in a pic u posted?... What oil did you use, and how often changed? I would cut open oil filter and see what inside looks like, plugged, collapsed, etc. Oil pickup not loose? 
    2005 Rinker 270 FV Volvo Penta 5.7Gi
  • BellevilleMXZBellevilleMXZ Member Posts: 732 ✭✭✭
    edited September 2016
    what do the cylinder walls look like?  does the head still have the spark plug for that cylinder in there?  if I were to venture a guess I'd blame predetonation on that kind of carnage.... which could also impact the others in lessor severity the further away from it... injector?   
    I think you would see piston/ring damage , before rod bearing damage, if it was deto. None of these 5.7s use a real robust piston package stock, Merc or Volvo.   
    2005 Rinker 270 FV Volvo Penta 5.7Gi
  • duane.mosleyduane.mosley Member Posts: 317 ✭✭✭
    edited September 2016
    #1 as you see is toast and of course #2 was scarred pretty good, #3 was starting to go. #4 #5 #6 had a faint scratch as if a piece of metal flake got in. # 7 & #8 were fine. no signs of uneven wear on 4-8. good amount of crud(metal shavings) caked on the oil pan and around the oil pump pick up tube. there was a good amount of carbon built up on several of the pistons, black soot is one thing, but chunks of soot built up on the surface of several of the pistons. i will get a pic posted

    Well , oil pump is at back, and the bearings get better, the further you go back towards the pump.......oiling issue. Did I see a POS fram orange filter in a pic u posted?... What oil did you use, and how often changed? I would cut open oil filter and see what inside looks like, plugged, collapsed, etc. Oil pickup not loose? 
    wix filter with mobile 1 full synthetic oil changed at the beginning of every season as well as my gear lube.  it did  show a quart low on the dipstick when i checked it. not sure where that went, engine didn't burn any oil. any other time i've checked the oil, it was fine.

  • BellevilleMXZBellevilleMXZ Member Posts: 732 ✭✭✭

    Ok must have been someone else pic with the fram. Cut it open and post pics if you can, be interesting to see if anything looks bad. Oil pump drive look ok? What about inside of oil pump.

    I will add one thing, Its always best to change the oil at the end of the season. The oil collects and forms contaminents, and acids......when left in the engine over the winter, can cause pitting/delamination on the surface of the bearings.

    2005 Rinker 270 FV Volvo Penta 5.7Gi
  • BellevilleMXZBellevilleMXZ Member Posts: 732 ✭✭✭

    http://www.wilmink.nl/Clevite/Clevite_lagerschade_tech_info.pdf

    Good info here......maybe compare to the better bearing u have left

    2005 Rinker 270 FV Volvo Penta 5.7Gi
  • duane.mosleyduane.mosley Member Posts: 317 ✭✭✭

    http://www.wilmink.nl/Clevite/Clevite_lagerschade_tech_info.pdf

    Good info here......maybe compare to the better bearing u have left

    great read. thanks for the link!

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