best place to buy a crate motor

212rowboat

BellevilleMXZ said:

212rowboat said:

what do the cylinder walls look like?  does the head still have the spark plug for that cylinder in there?  if I were to venture a guess I'd blame predetonation on that kind of carnage.... which could also impact the others in lessor severity the further away from it... injector?   

I think you would see piston/ring damage , before rod bearing damage, if it was deto. None of these 5.7s use a real robust piston package stock, Merc or Volvo.   

man.... I'm dumb as a bear vacationing in bora bora... 

bearings.... bearings... bearings... not caps... why my noggin' went to caps defies reason and sensibilities... i looked at what used to be a bearing- and something not so far gone that it looked even remotely like a similarly mangled cap, and STILL went to cap... pass the umbrella drinky and some sunscreen- this bear is out of his element...

Michael T

For mercury Engines I have found the Magnums offer a much more robust platform. Looking at two Rinkers side by side - for a few more $ I'd take 350 Mags (for example) over 5.7s....which I have never found particularly strong. For some members that's irrelevant but for those up-grading, re-building or purchasing anew that would be my guideline. Of course, I have always believed in buying the biggest strongest engine you can afford and knowing that some combinations are just bad.

212rowboat

duene, do your engines sit significantly nose high on the mounts in order to properly align to the transom plate/outdrive?  

and... m1 just doesn't have the sheer/cling strength needed, man... it's an awesome oil for an engine that runs much miles and often- but not for one that sits (and drips clean) for an appreciable amount of time... that damage could have been done quickly with those conditions here and above met... dry bearings on each start, and dry for first crucial seconds... an oil with the sheer strength to hold onto the metal for a long time is an absolute must for these things, it's my opinion... 

BellevilleMXZ

212rowboat said:

duene, do your engines sit significantly nose high on the mounts in order to properly align to the transom plate/outdrive?  

and... m1 just doesn't have the sheer/cling strength needed, man... it's an awesome oil for an engine that runs much miles and often- but not for one that sits (and drips clean) for an appreciable amount of time... that damage could have been done quickly with those conditions here and above met... dry bearings on each start, and dry for first crucial seconds... an oil with the sheer strength to hold onto the metal for a long time is an absolute must for these things, it's my opinion... 

Yeah I use Rotella T6 5/40 syn in mine. I have used it before in high rpm/loaded hard applications, and it shows very well in the oil analysis. I'll probably test mine at end of season. I just have to figure a way to get a sample. Can't just pour it out of the extractor, as I use it for other stuff.

Duane, what M1 were you using?  

duane.mosley

I believe it was 15-40, I will have to find my spare bottle. 

duane.mosley

machine shop says i'll have my quote tomorrow for my 5.7 to 6.2 conversion. i decided to let the local machine shop that has a good reputation do the assembly of my long block. i'm supplying the parts so i know exactly what goes in it, they are doing all the machine and assembly work. time to get a few boat units ready!

duane.mosley

for those following this thread, here is an update on my 383 stoker build. talked to the machine shop today. with purchase of the crank kit, all the machine work necessary and assembly of the long block, it is going to run me 2300 at the machine shop.  turns out 3 of my cylinders had some minor scratches and we are going to bore to .030. he said that it was border line that with the fact that i'm going ALL NEW on this build, he would feel better about his warranty if we bored it. with the purchase of new tins, new gaskets, cam and lifter kit with all new springs and push rods, i should fall in just under 3300 for the build from oil pan to intake. i am considering replacing my sensors and fuel injectors and haven't priced all that out yet. all and all, i'm thinking under 5000 and that's replacing bilge pump and float switch, both exhaust manifolds, both water pumps, a few hard to get hoses, motor mounts, bellows, and a few other things. i just did the shift cable beginning of this year. this of course is just to get everything back in the boat and ready to run, the ECM issue will be it's own animal once i get it back together.

Michael T

sounds great Duane. When I built my 383 we got a higher quality pan that was much more rust resistant and also had baffles to stop oil sloshing. It was called a windage pan.