New Boater Seeking Equipment Operations Dos and Dont's

Autodog61

Hi All!

New to the Rinker Forum and very new to my 2002 342 Fiesta Vee.  I recently upgraded from my 270 Pachanga to the 342 Fiesta Vee.  The Pachanga didn't even have shore power nor any of the multitude of cabin equipment this Rinker has.  Specifically shore power panel, Air conditioning, hot water, Shower sump pump, inverter, generator, black water/fresh water holding, yada yada.  So, during this winter, I want to read as much as possible on the proper operations of these.  Starting to look through the forum but don't see a post for "newby" learning operations of components.  Looking for suggestion on where to start.  Is there a Sticky on the subject?  I see there is a FAQ.   

Thanks in advance!   

rasbury

Welcome! Pics are required for new members! You will get more info here than you will know what to do with....we have a 270 but look to the little larger with envy. These guys know there stuff and I have gotten so much info - some know about this, some know about that...and a few know it all!

reneechris14

Yes that will drain the fresh water system.Both blue plugs are the lowest point.The bottom of the risers get feed from the hour glass looking thing on the lower port side.I don't use the air thing.. 

MarkB

First of all welcome.

Secondly, NEVER force anything. If you have to force it, you're probably doing it wrong and it will break.

Thirdly, take care of everything ... the cost of proper maintenance is likely much less than the cost of repair and replacement. This is the part that your going to have to read up on in respects to your engine, drive, fridge, air conditioner, hoses, connections, canvas, etc, etc.

Handymans342

Best to call an owner of a 342 on the phone. Also, get to know every system and every switch. Welcome to the forum. 

randy56

Welcome, smart man wanting to learn, and there is a lot to learn.  I'm hoping you received all the manuals.  there are plenty of guys with 342's on here that will help. Just ask, also up at the top right hand corner you see where it says search. you can type a subject. It will find past discussions. 

Autodog61

Thanks all!  And, yes, I did get the manuals.  Although I have briefly looked through all of them already, I was left with the feeling that most of the "gadget" stuff was the how to install rather than the how it works and how to maintenance.  For example, There is a black water tank right and that is connected to the head.  I have read on here that its good to install a pressure relief on the tank so it doesn't collapse during aggressive pump out.  But, of course, its not going to say that in the marine head manual, right?  Winterization of components another big question.  Maybe the answer is to continue to read the 62 pages of forum posts and as you note, find an owner to query often. 

One lesson learned already - I hadn't had a chance to take the boat out until 2 weeks after purchase (yes I did both mechanical and hull surveys and past with flying colors).  Wife and I jump on boat to take out in light wind early morning weekend.  Fire up engines and intermitten buzzer on Port engine.  I remembered reading manual and that's indicator of low gear oil.  Sure enough, bone dry.  Required haul out, replacement of transom to drive housing brass connector (which of course caused me to read exponential amounts about cathodic protection/mercathode on the Bravo III's). And, at the same time, they replaced the IAC muffler.  Who would have thought, a sponge within the Throttle body?  Really? .  further, I find out Mercury recommends these changed every 80 hours.  These few things correct now and running fine.  Still wondering where the old IAC sponge went that needed replaced?  Its completely different than my 270 Pachanga.  In that boat I cruise at 45 knots and top out at 55.  So, needless to say I need to get used to .......slow, and easy.  Admiral loves that.  I'm on the fence still.   

And, Yes, lots to read and learn.  Dizzying amount.    

Dream_Inn

Welcome to the forum and congrats on the 342.  It is a fantastic boat with that full size shower!  as far as where to start and being overwhelmed, we've all been there.  Easiest place to start is just by physically going thru the boat and knowing what and where everything is.  I'd say to start with in the cabin and look thru all the cabinets and hidden areas.  Specifically, mid cabin area (or aft cabin that it is sometimes referred to).  Under the cushions in the back area, you will find seacocks, which are valves that allow water to flow in to items that need it.  You will have one that goes to an air conditioner pump, another that will go to your head (toilet).  There are also strainers on each.  Those need to be maintained and cleaned out every so often by closing seacock off first (so you don't flood boat with water) and then twist off glass/plastic bowl to access filter/strainer.  You will also see a box in there with a bilge pump in it.  Your shower runs into it and then pumps that water out.  It is an area that needs cleaned/maintained. 

Waste tank and water tanks.  You should know where they are.  Some people have made easier access to visually see them since most of the gauges for them do not work.

In the engine room.  Follow all of your fresh water connections.  You will find red & blue ones for hot/cold.  You will also find your water heater on stbd side.  Learn where the pump is as well.  You will also see another strainer and hose going to the generator.  That's another item that needs to stay clean.  Next, follow hoses around engine.  You'll see two that go to a pump on the bottom port side of each engine.  That pump provides water to keep engine cool (some thru heat exchanger if you have a closed cooled engine, or thru motor for raw water cooled - you should figure out what you have). 

Fluids, learn where they all are and what they are for and what type it takes. 

Electric...learn what batteries are for what.  You should have two separate starting batteries and two house batteries that are connected together in parallel.  Learn the switches for each of them and what they do.  (ie, you can, in an emergency, jump from one battery to start the other engine if one of the starter batteries is dead).  Go thru Shore power and how it works along with the breakers.  Also running the generator and how to switch over at the panel is important.  (you can also start the genny from engine room if you are servicing or working on - it's behind white sound shield)

Dash, go thru all the rocker switches and see what is for where/what.

well, I think that should be a good start!

Autodog61

Wow Dream Inn, that IS the kind of information I was looking for.  I will do all that over the next week and get back on what I find.  One of the things that drive me crazy about forum posts is, they are often not followed up by original poster to close the door on successful outcome.  Although there are no specific fixes I am looking for here, maybe we'll end up turning this post into a really good first time 342 owner checklist/to Do's.  And, I'll post photos next week when I get back from travels.  Thanks all.

BTW - Closed cooling systems on the 6.2L MPI Horizons.  I was surprised they draw water from the Bravo III's and there isn't two bottom hull pick-ups (confirmed by my visual inspection of the bottom of the hull during the survey).   

rasbury

some do, some don't have thru hulls...I have closed cooling on my 350 but has a thru hull as well as pick up thru the foot.

Stodge

You will love your 342.  We're on our 3rd season with ours.  

As for manuals, I haven't really found anything specific enough to be helpful.  

The biggest mystery I had to solve was what one of the rocker switches in the helm was for.  It was a momentary switch and all the labels were gone.  After some playing around I found out it was a dimmer for the gauges.

Lots and lots of great info on the 342 available from the other owners here.  Ask questions.  

Dream_Inn

There is also a lot of good info on configuration for the air conditioners.  One item worth reading the manual on to set up to your likings.  & keep that info in your head when issues arise with it, because a lot of times a change in settings will fix it.

Also note that 2002 was the first year to have all of the Smartcraft information available.  (started in 2001)  Systems like Vesselview are great to connect up to it to give you digital status as well as alarm status.  At least knowing the capabilities of it and that you can access it is a good thing.

LaRea

I have a 20-pound stack of manuals from each of the individual systems, but I no longer store them on the boat.  Any time I maintain or replace a piece of gear, I go online to find the manual, and save it in cloud storage (which, for me, is Google Drive).  That way, I can always get to it on a laptop, tablet or phone, and it's searchable.  

A Bravo-3 provides more than enough cooling water for a 6.2 or even 8.1, but some boats have dual pickups for redundancy.  

A couple suggestions:

Read through some back-issues of Boat/US Seaworthy Magazine.  It's all about the many ways that boats end up sinking, burning, exploding, geting stolen or otherwise causing insurance claims.  You'll learn a lot from the mistakes of others.    http://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/magazine/

If you ever find a mechanic who does good work and shows up on time, treat that person like a cherished partner.  Respect them, pay immediately, and don't quibble over a few dollars here and there.  

spalmer114

Great information so far!  I am in a similar situation as you, just purchased a 2001 340, however it is my very first boat, so I have a lot to learn.  It would be great to have a new owners "Do's and Don'ts" sticky by some of the more experienced boaters.  My big fear is that out of a lack of knowledge on some systems, I will cause some expensive damage.

LaRea

Get a copy of Chapman's Piloting (make sure it's the latest edition).  Make it your goal to read the entire thing over the winter.  It will make you a better, safer boater.

Stodge

Consider a Coast Guard vessel safety check.

I did one a few weeks back for folks that had bought a Canadian boat.  They were proud of the fact that replaced the life vests when they noticed there was no "U.S. Coast Guard Approved" notice on the original ones.

Sadly the "lifesaver" (Type 4 throwable) had "Canadian Coast Guard Approved" but not U.S.  

Black_Diamond

Whoooo. Lots to learn. Tons of help on here tho!  In hindsight, you would do yourself a big favor by going thru systems one by one. IE the AC / heat: locate the sea water valve and strainer ( port side under rear bunk). Strainer needs to be cleaned as needed. Find the AC unit ( under berth). Get to know where things are and maintenance items. 

I love my 342. I've been just about thru everything in it. Feel free to ask away. I seem to by accident become the 5e generator info guy too. lol. It's my pal now!

LaRea

Speaking of the generator ... run it.  

Seriously - if you let the genny sit idle for too long, it will punish you.  If you run the genny under load for at least 10 minutes 2-3 times a month, it will love you and treat you right.  Make it a practice to run the genny every time you go out.

Michael T

.....running a generator under load heats-up the generator windings thereby removing corrosion causing moisture, is also probably good for the fuel system to preclude build-ups of contaminants.

Autodog61

 Ok guys.  Still traveling (St Louis).  And get back tomorrow so I will start to evaluate the cabin gadgets and pickups/strainers this wwekend with more pics.  But I attached a photo of the Bravo iiis on my boat.  These are now 15 years old.  They just got epoxy coated in February.  Boat moors in fresh water but goes in Puget Sound for occassional 2 week trips.  Note prior owner installed mechanical drive showers. Keeps bravos cool better.  I am actually surprised they are still going after 15 years.  I am going to try to milk 1 season more out of them before replacing.  As I noted above, ensure you check the Mercathode system regularly for adequate current flow as this will get you 15 years out.  Also, keep an eye on adjacent slips At the marina to limit stray current from your and other boats that might have charged wires exposed to water looking for a metal surface to flow to.  My slip is right at the meter station for like 30 slips and stray current is a worry with aluminum bravo cases and s.s props.  Keep zincs clean if not new.  Meaning stiff brush the gunk off them as often as possible. Can anyone tell us when to use zinc vs magnesium?

LaRea

Salt water = zinc
Brackish, like Chesapeake Bay = aluminum
Fresh = magnesium

Magnesium should not be used in salt water for more than a week or two.  Any anode should be replaced when 50% depleted.

LaRea

Your drives look pretty good for 15 years.  Even with new epoxy, plan on an annual scrape-and-paint.

Autodog61

Ok, got down to the boat yesterday.  (I was going to start with photo upload to support discussion below but cant seem to figure how.  Does system limit upoad volume for new members?) I'll start with including a photo of my 2002 Fiesta Vee.  To answer suggestions above, I have reviewed the strainers and water pickups under the mid cabin and other things under there.  I'll do photos of those after this comment.  But, I thought I would start with a review of the battery charger system and some questions about shore panel.  The previous owner didn't provide the manual for the intel-power PD2040.  And, after reviewing the "lights" on the thing, I had some questions I think I resolved (see photos) - First, the lights on top - A, B- The red was on solid and the green was very slow blinking.  Didn't know what this meant and during the survey, the surveyor told me he thought the house batteries were dead while the broker said no, they only needed charged.  I down loaded the manual on line and found the following facts:

Continuous red - Power is on

Blinking green - Charger is in storage mode.  So, I suppose, given the charger is connected to house batteries, they are not dead.  Further, the DC readout is not showing voltage - However, in storage mode, its not on continuous charge. 

Also, this charger is only for Lead Acid batteries and the "G" model would be for gel-cel.  I guess I wont replace the current batteries with Optima blue tops!

Finally, manual says to check fluid level often if in storage for extended period to avoid dry cell which will destroy batteries.  Next time I go to the boat I will bring deionized water to top off fluid levels.

Ok, now for the photo of the shore panel.  Firs question - Obviously you see the A/C readout at 110 volts.  Most A/C switches are off.  When I switch DC main to on it allows DC switched items to power up (analog meter reads 12V).  I assume this is typical while using shore power and required to power items because for example, on the AC side there are not switches for cabin lights and the shore power panel includes a 120V AC to 12V DC converter.  The question - Can you damage the shore power by accidently starting the genset with the shore power on? 

Second question - Can someone tell me what the toggle switch powers located right of the Rinker Logo?

Next I'll go over photos of strainers, Pump, and hoses under the mid-cabin area.  

  

Autodog61

Ok, figured it out.  Drag and drop!  Heres the boat.

here's the battery charger

And, my shore panel

Dream_Inn

I'll answer your first question.  You cannot damage anything by starting generator with shore power plugged in.  You see that metal bar between generator breakers and shore power breakers?  What that does is only allows one set of breakers on at once.  You can actually leave the dock without turning off AC power if you desire (or come back to dock without turning it off).  You can start the genny while on shore power, then throw both generator breakers on at the same time, switching from shore to generator.  Then unplug shore power and head out

Autodog61

Ok, finally had time to get to some of the operating systems.  I have a few more questions but first, I'll show what I used to fill batteries.  Instructions for charger said to check battery fluid level often if charger is on for extended periods.  Good thing I did because a few of the cells on the house batteries were quite low.  I got the funnel at harbor freight and the squirt bottle at Rite Aid.  Note the PO had the battery cables over the liquid caps so I doubt the fluid levels were ever checked.  Now they care all topped off. 





Now, as noted above, did the following:
1.  Exercised through hull fittings and strainers under mid-cabin floor (starboard),
2.  Inspected Strainers
3.Inspected blackwater tank behind Mid-cabin bulkhead/port side (very clean/good condition and no smell)

Few questions - Was surprised how clean and tight the BW tank was.  On top of the blackwater tank there is a screen-type thing.  Can anyone tell me if this is the valve to prevent over-suction pressure and collapse of the tank?

Those sea strainers are dirty.  Before I clean, can you tell me if those just screw off (of course after the valves are closed!) and should I have spare on hand in case they break?  and recommended source location to buy? 



The head is electric flush.  I watched a few videos on youtube for R&R pump and Joker valve. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2D5Bm_18qE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNI_pbbbe1A

Can anyone explain how the system works?  Is the red diaphragm pump under the mid cabin the water input and pressure to the system when you push flush or does that all work through the pump under head itself?






Finally, can anyone tell me where the shower sump discharges too?

  


 

And, what about the rocker switch next to the "Rinker" on the bottom/right of the shore panel - Any ideas what this is for?

randy56

I'll answer two, the black hose, goes out side the boat, usually on starboard side, you will see a through hull, be sure and put pink anti freeze in the shower drain, when you winterize.  
Yes,  your sea strainers un screw, after turning off valves, mine had rubber 'O' ring take your time. And yes a spare in the tool box is helpful. 

Autodog61

Thanks Randy56. 

I'll be sure to put the pink stuff through all hoses I can as well as the shower sump

bella-vita

The red diaphragm pump is for your heat and ac unit which is under v birth

Autodog61

Bella-Vita,

Yes, thanks.  A/C pump.  I continue to dig through the archives of previous posts and saw that on another discussion thread.  This weekend in the northwest will be particularly challenging as the remnants of Typhoon Songda pass over.  Think I will run out and get myself some snubbers before it hits.  We rarely get strong enough winds to worry about them in a protected marina like I am in but was down there the other day and because I am open astern to southerly winds it was pushing the boat around some.  Better to be as safe as possible. 

Autodog61

Its been a while since I have been on.  Its winter here in Seattle and thought I would share some recent lessons learned with making it through winter.  Generally, asking around my marina, I found most boaters simply go with a west marine heater in the cabin and drain water from appropriate locations on the water system to make it through winter.  The good news for me was my boat has a bilge heater.  The bad news, I was unaware of how the operate (prior owner didn't save the instruction page).  We had a cold snap early January.  Temperature got down to 19 degrees for few days in row.  In preparation, I had thought I could get away without draining risers and seawater pump and use the bilge heater.  If you look at my fuse panel above, you see a white tag on the 120V site.  This says "bilge heat".  So, prior to the cold snap I turned it on.  Didn't hear anything come on at the time but I remembered someone said they don't come on until they hit 36 dgrees so I didn't worry about it.  My Bilge heater is a "boat safe" with unknown model number.   

Well, a few days into the cold snap I kept checking for heat and I got nothing.  So, I searched out the instructions: See attached.  Generally same procedure for most units.  I found the test button and got nothing.  After calling the prior owner at that point, I found out there was a 120V plug-in under the cockpit counter under the pull out garbage receptacle.  Turns out that only one side of the plug is live.  When I plugged heater into the other side, power came on.  BUT, I had gone a week at sub-30 degrees (and down to 19 at night) without bilge heat and with water still in risers/seawater pump.  We actually had some surface ice on parts of the marina.  Not where I was but closer to shore.  My inspection of components suggested nothing was compromised.  Best news, mechanics ran for me yesterday with no issues....Whew.  I bought the boat in late August of 2016 with very little time to learn systems before on set of winter.  lesson learned, use the hand pump to pressure up the seawater side of the cooling system (green plugs on brass fitting on port side of each engine -front, top) and drain the water out of the pump (lower starboard, front bottom) and risers.  AND, confirm your bilge heater is working BEFORE it gets cold.  In a few days, I will post photos of the draining procedure - For those reading, I did discuss with mechanics at the marina who said with the FACTORY fresh water cooling installed in the Horizon 6.2's I have, I should only need to pull the plugs on the bottom of each exhaust riser as well as drain for each seawater pump.  Can anyone confirm this for me?  The Mercruiser manual shows 1, 3, 5, and 7 plug systems but is silent on draining with Freshwater (1/2 system) cooling/heat exchanger.  I am happily surprised nothing froze up.  Must be that my cabin heater along with lake water provided enough heat/insulation to keep engine compartment above 32 degrees.    

Hamdog

Autodog,


You will love the 342. We've had ours now for seven seasons. Great boat. The rocker switch that you asked about is for the "mood lights" that surround the V-Berth. More than happy to answer your questions. Just ask away.


Hamdog