What's wrong with the STBD ram ?

J3ffJ3ff Member Posts: 4,234 ✭✭✭✭✭
Looks like something needs to be replaced... noticed the right side ram looks like it's out of place... any ideas?
:smile:

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Answers

  • reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Maybe you can spin 180°?
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • randy56randy56 Member Posts: 4,085 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I cannot see it hurting anything the way it is. 
    Boat Name : 

  • Glassguy54Glassguy54 Member Posts: 588 ✭✭✭
    Worn out bushing?
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 8,075 mod
    Looks like the weld at the end of the shaft is broken.  New ram for you!  And check around for other signs of impact damage.
  • J3ffJ3ff Member Posts: 4,234 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited January 2017
    Well that's nuts! Because the ram is brand new! As of sept! 

    Sure hope it's just a bushing! 
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 8,075 mod
    It's hard to be sure from the photo, but if you look at the angle between the shaft and the sleeve, it would almost have to be a broken weld.
  • J3ffJ3ff Member Posts: 4,234 ✭✭✭✭✭
  • J3ffJ3ff Member Posts: 4,234 ✭✭✭✭✭
    man did that paint wear off fast.. here's a picture of the same thing dated sept 7th. 
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,990 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited January 2017
    Wow- do you keep the boat in acid?
  • J3ffJ3ff Member Posts: 4,234 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Right? Those zinc's look terrible... and I noticed the cone shaped one on the props fell off... they were all new Sept 7th... boat was in the water till Nov 29th. This is what it looks like as of today. 


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    1.jpg 501.6K
  • randy56randy56 Member Posts: 4,085 ✭✭✭✭✭
    That's an amassing  the difference, were you in the water, what only 2 months, the paint, and anodes, that much corrosion.  Salt water is the culprit?
    Boat Name : 

  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    That ram end looks bent to me
  • jhofmannjhofmann Member Posts: 430 ✭✭✭
    Extend the ram all the way. remove and bring to a welding shop, they shuld be able to straighten and re-weld. Extending the ram will help keep the heat from welding away fron the seals. They may want to drape a wet cloth over part of the tam to add as a heat sink.
  • Glassguy54Glassguy54 Member Posts: 588 ✭✭✭
    Good Lord!!!!!!! Is the Mercathode system working? All bonding wires intact? Were the correct anodes installed?
  • J3ffJ3ff Member Posts: 4,234 ✭✭✭✭✭
    jhofmann said:
    Extend the ram all the way. remove and bring to a welding shop, they shuld be able to straighten and re-weld. Extending the ram will help keep the heat from welding away fron the seals. They may want to drape a wet cloth over part of the tam to add as a heat sink.
    This thing is less than 6 months old.. merc will be sending a replacement if it's really cracked?! 
  • J3ffJ3ff Member Posts: 4,234 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Good Lord!!!!!!! Is the Mercathode system working? All bonding wires intact? Were the correct anodes installed?
    Can't answer the first question, but I did install all new anodes in Sept before it went back in the water. 
  • J3ffJ3ff Member Posts: 4,234 ✭✭✭✭✭
    LaRea said:
    Oh, I forgot - the sleeve at the end of the shaft is actually welded at a slight angle.  Yours is on backwards.  If you pull it off and rotate it 180 degrees like @reneechris14 suggested, it should line up perfectly.  

    On the corrosion, you have a serious problem that you should correct immediately.  Part of the problem is the hull paint.  Get some sandpaper and make a 2" gap of unpainted hull around the outdrive.  There should not be any electrical contact between the bottom paint and the outdrive.  

    But I don't think that would be enough by itself to cause so much corrosion in two months.  You must have the wrong type of anodes.  How salty is the water in your marina?  
    well that's great...tech must have put it on wrong.. I'll take care of that.  

    It's very salty where I am, here's the kit I bought, I also put the propeller anode on, but as I said, seems to have fallen off. http://www.ebay.com/itm/291651793734?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

    Also - don't forget the actual drive is 10 years old, the only new parts are the RAM's and transom-mount..
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 8,075 mod
    If aluminum anodes are 50% wasted after two months, you probably need zinc.  But before making a change, find out what others in your marina are using.  If they are using aluminum, and their anodes last a full season, maybe you have some other problem (faulty Mercathode, stray current at your slip, etc.).  And the bottom paint is probably making it worse.
  • J3ffJ3ff Member Posts: 4,234 ✭✭✭✭✭
    ah such a newbie move. I just saw "for salt water use" and figured they were fine. I'm sure everyone else is using zinc, but will check with a couple boater friends.  Ordering zinc right now. 
  • J3ffJ3ff Member Posts: 4,234 ✭✭✭✭✭
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 8,075 mod
    OK, so whoever worked on your boat made two rookie mistakes:  installed the drive ram backwards, and didn't leave a gap in hull paint around the outdrive.  I have to wonder what other mistakes they made.  Let's go back to basics:

    First of all, you definitely need to remove the hull paint for 2" around the drive.

    Find out exactly what paint was used on the outdrive.  If they used the same paint that they used on the hull, that's a major bad.  You would need to remove all of that paint from the outdrive, and refinish it with paint that is specifically made for aluminum outdrives, such as Trilux.  

    No matter what, you need to scrape the corroded parts of the outdrive down to bare metal, then prime and paint.  

    Did they paint the electrode of the Mercathode system?  It's the black plastic box on the bottom of the outdrive near the hull.  If it has been painted, you would need to replace it.  http://www.boatfix.com/merc/servmanl/14/14a7.pdf

    Find the Mercathode controller (inside the boat) and make sure it's not damaged or disconnected.

    Do any of the slips near yours have old, crappy boats with an orange household extension cord plugged into the shore power?  That's usually a sign of high risk for stray current, which can cause severe corrosion problems.
  • reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Mercathode system working.take off your shoes,battery's on,touch hydraulic line to ram,should feel like 9 volt battery.it's actually 3 volt,could use voltmeter.It is tuff water in long Island sound.
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,990 ✭✭✭✭✭
    give that to us again @reneechris14? is that touch the line and touch the ram and should feel an electrical charge and that's normal?
  • reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited January 2017
    Your outdrive has a charge to it form the mercathode,it's very low like 3 volts.
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
    You can put a volt meter on the little wire on the mercathode  and ground to the ground,this will give a reading.
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭

    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
    See the little wire thats going to keep all life forms from living on your outdrive??
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • J3ffJ3ff Member Posts: 4,234 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Thanks for all the posts!! Is this thing live even when the battery switch is off? 

    I wonder if something didn't get hooked back up after the engine was swapped. 
  • reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Battery has to be on.
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
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