@YYZRC i was following your diagram and ordered the cable to connect port and starboard junction boxes to one n2k gateway. part #84-892323A01. The 10 pin connection looks a little off and i wanted to make sure it was ok. Did your port connection only have one purple wire?
So tried to get it working today and nothing. The CAN light stays on but the NMEA comes on for about 3 seconds and then goes out. Yes i have confirmed the N2K network has power. I will try calling Mercruiser tomorrow.
Spoke to Mercruiser 2x, spoke with a few pretty knowledgeable mechanics. At first Mercruiser tried to tell me that i needed to have my ECM changed to output digital. Both mechanics and the second call to Mercruiser said that wasn't the case. I "think" i am plugged into the correct spot on the engine. Does anyone have a picture of the location for the correct place to plug the harness into the engine? Apparently there are two possible plugs that would fit.
Went back this weekend and there was only one possible connection to use. So then went and bought a new NMEA backbone and terminators. That solved the problem. Some issue with the ancor brand. It did check out but i was using a HD multimeter vs a $1000 NMEA tester.
Spoke to Mercruiser 2x, spoke with a few pretty knowledgeable mechanics. At first Mercruiser tried to tell me that i needed to have my ECM changed to output digital. Both mechanics and the second call to Mercruiser said that wasn't the case. I "think" i am plugged into the correct spot on the engine. Does anyone have a picture of the location for the correct place to plug the harness into the engine? Apparently there are two possible plugs that would fit.
Forgot that I took this pic last week in case anyone else needs to see the CAN connector. Port side rear of the engine on the 350 MAG MPI.
You can also see the steering angle sensor on the left side of the pic (u shaped stainless bar about 1/8” diameter)
Yes other sites had posted pics that showed the connection with a yellow cap with "terminator" written on it. Mine didn't have that. Just a normal purple one. Now that i have it connected there is soo much info i need to sort through and see what is pertinent. I could end up with the boat looking like the space shuttle if i am not careful. I really like the options for the templates to show the info that Garmin gives you but i just wish i had the ability to make some of them larger...old eyes.
Glad you got it working!! I had a lot of frustration with this supposed “plug and play” install - if I could do it all over again, I would have had the marina code the port engine as “port” before I started running wires. I spent more money on tech time to program/troubleshoot the port engine ID than I did on the VV7 display. Ah well.
@YYZRC Did you have to run the data cables from your engines up to your helm? If so, how did you do it? I'm thinking of making the VV7 upgrade but I'm not sure how to tackle that part of the project.
Yes I did. It was pretty easy. I ran the two cables along the transom and then zip tied them to the loom that runs up the starboard side. Remove the speaker at the base of the arch and the speaker at the helm to help guide the wires. Also remove the access panel under the helm seat.
You'll have to bust up a bit of foam at the 'firewall' to get the cables through, but it's pretty manageable with a fiberglass fish. I sat on top of the genny and poked away at the foam with a metal rod until I had enough room to pass the connectors through.
Port cable needs to be 5' longer than starboard. I did a 20' and a 25' 1 resistor cable. 879981T20 and 879981T25.
While you are at it, consider replacing the shift and throttle cables if they're at all sticky. I did it all at once (and never again).
I did install a NMEA backbone, yes. I used a Lowrance kit from Amazon. Which model VV are you installing? In my 330 I had the VV7 and in my 350 I have the VV Link interface.
My 350 came equipped with the Lowrance 4200 (I think) which I removed. I wired the NEMA backbone into the electronics dash switch (leftmost switch of the 4 switches on the far right side of the dash - red wire green chaser).
I think that's where the Lowrance was originally wired but my memory is a bit foggy.
@YYZRC I'm thinking VV703 but it looks like the 903 is almost the same price, so that may also be an option. For now, I'm only interested in VV displaying the engine data. I have the VV mobile set up now with the two junction boxes and multiwake harness. So it seems like I should be able to remove the VV mobile module and connect the VV7 in it's place. I spoke with Mercury last week and the rep said I needed the N2K, but that seemed like a generic answer to avoid a deep dive.
Based on the layout below, harness i would connect to the multiwake from my VV mobile set up instead of the junction box. i would connect to k, which connects to the screen. And all the rest seems like it's only necessary for connecting to additional displays. (Not sure what the link controller does so I could be wrong).
I am running the Simrad GO9 (same as VV903) with VesselView Link, so its a bit of a different setup than yours.
The VV Link controller pushes the Merc data onto the N2K network so you will need the N2K power; it's only about $100. Make sure you get a name brand one (I went with a Lowrance one from Amazon). I think @davidbrooks had issues with Ancor brand.
I believe connector “K” in the diagram you posted is just power, no data.
You might also want to price out the GO9 and VV Link separately as it may be cheaper than the VV903. I got my GO9 from Simrad's Reconditioned site at a reasonable price. Looks like they are about $700 on eBay.
Comments
I think all this harness does is allow the VV to get power when the starboard key is off. That’s the only difference I noticed after adding it.
You'll have to bust up a bit of foam at the 'firewall' to get the cables through, but it's pretty manageable with a fiberglass fish. I sat on top of the genny and poked away at the foam with a metal rod until I had enough room to pass the connectors through.
Port cable needs to be 5' longer than starboard. I did a 20' and a 25' 1 resistor cable. 879981T20 and 879981T25.
While you are at it, consider replacing the shift and throttle cables if they're at all sticky. I did it all at once (and never again).
Based on the layout below, harness i would connect to the multiwake from my VV mobile set up instead of the junction box. i would connect to k, which connects to the screen. And all the rest seems like it's only necessary for connecting to additional displays. (Not sure what the link controller does so I could be wrong).
The VV Link controller pushes the Merc data onto the N2K network so you will need the N2K power; it's only about $100. Make sure you get a name brand one (I went with a Lowrance one from Amazon). I think @davidbrooks had issues with Ancor brand.
I believe connector “K” in the diagram you posted is just power, no data.
You might also want to price out the GO9 and VV Link separately as it may be cheaper than the VV903. I got my GO9 from Simrad's Reconditioned site at a reasonable price. Looks like they are about $700 on eBay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/386179301290
The VV Link is about $1200.
https://www.mercruiserparts.com/8m0110641-vsslnk-mult-kit
Make sure you don't buy a Simrad Cruise - it doesn't have a N2K port and therefore won't work!