Koehler 5e new unfamiliar problem

craigswardmtb

Where is that thing located?  I don't see mention of it in my manual. Maybe it's on the newer 5ecd models which have a bunch more sensors?

craigswardmtb

Well it turned out to be the high temp cut out switch/sensor. It's on the non service side on top of the manifold. As soon as I removed it I noticed some corrosion on it. Particularly where the two wires attached, as well as on the metal underside where it mates to the top of the manifold. I replaced it first then the oil pressure switch for good measure seeing I had a new one and now all is well. I'm still getting some minor hunting in the throttle so I'm going to go ahead and put the new carb in. I have been dealing with this hunting issue basically since I bought the boat despite many efforts to clean the carb. Hopefully the new carb fixes this. The genny was barely used it's first 7 years of its life so I think there's some deep varnishing in there. 

Another 5e issue resolved and in the books. These things are so darn temperamental. 

reneechris14

Glad to hear you found the culprit.

Dream_Inn

Great to hear you found the problem!

Black_Diamond

So here is the big trick for generators:  Run it.  Often.  Under load. 

craigswardmtb

Yep I'm good about it. We anchor alot. Prior owners not so much. Still chasing their bugs out apparently. 

Stodge

Waiting on a new water pump for my 5E.  The pin holding the impeller to the shaft disintegrated so there was no coolant flow.  So after new raw water pump (which was cracked), new thermostat, new (internal) water pump, and removed flapper (Kohler support said bad idea) on the replacement exhaust I hope to have a working genny again.  Gonna need it this August.

craigswardmtb

Well the new carb went in and I cleaned the flame arrestor and it has never run this well. At first fire up it was surging worse than ever. I adjusted the echoke to its factory setting (white line on my echoke) which is a much richer position than it was in with the dirty carb. It got rid of all surging. It would fire up instantly with zero surging. I then realized the idle sounded way to high so I adjusted the idle screw down a bit. I then put a heavy load on it and it started surging again. The revs dropped quite a bit as well so I realized I must have set the idle screw too low. A quick half turn and she ran perfectly with and without load. 
Amazing what a new carb will do. The old carb was pretty dirty and there was noticeable resistance in the valves/plates. 
Overall the swap out was easy. For those doing this a quick catch that may help you. The choke linkage must be unhooked to remove the carb. I thought it intuitive to try and remove the linkage before removing the carb. Wrong...  the linkage is hooked in a way where it will not come undone unless you were to start bending things. Instead you unbolt the carb and rotate it upwards and the linkage comes right out of the linkage plates. Much easier...

Liberty44140

Great news! Thanks for sharing all of this, no doubt it will help others. Thanks