Oil Pressure/Engine temp 2002 342 fiesta Vee

Dream_Inn

Very nice!  & thanks for the follow-up to the topic.  I'm sure she'll run nice and cool now!

Stodge

In the photo of the water pickup, that bump to the right under the words "hull before", is that your depth sounder?  

Autodog61

Not sure.  Likely the depth sounder.  There are two bumps right?  I'll have to check and get back when I provide photos of the Bilge area with the new piping and strainers. 

bella-vita

Looks like the generator pick up

rasbury

My bravo/350 has both also and closed cooling-...maybe that's why I have both and some do not?

Autodog61

Well, the two bumps next to and port of the new pick up don't show any connection in the bilge so I don't know what they are/were.  See below the last of the photos for this post.  The depth transducer is on the starboard next to the new pick up there.  And, the pick up for the genset is right between the two new sea strainers which is to the right forward of the photo above you are asking about.  Regardless, here are the inside of the bilge and the new piping.  Have yet to take it out to see about cooling effects but the good news - Its been 2 weeks in water and the 4200 is holding nicely, Whew!

 

Autodog61

All right, following up here with a request for suggestions.  The good news on the new water pick ups for the improved cooling is that the thru-Hull fittings are still holding well!  Its time to winterize now and I want to close those Seacocks.  Now the ugly part- they were installed in front of the engines between the serpentine system and the bulkhead - See photo above.  Very very difficult to reach by hand or by foot.  I had asked that they install them behind engine and center near the bilge pump but...…...this is what I got.  My Pachanga the mechanic did the same thing, put them in a spot that is near impossible to reach -But that boat I kept on trailer so wasn't worried about long term storage on water like this boat.  I tried pushing with foot but had some resistance and didn't want to break the valve until I know which is the correct way for open and close.  You need to initially feel which way is closed before you reef on them.  With minor foot pressure they don't budge.  Response from Mechanic is "they are probably just stiff".  Since this is the first time I will close them, unclear of which way is closed/open. Or whether they have some kind of spring mechanism requiring a press in or not.  Suspect not but not sure.   Also, I think closed is in the direction of the flow arrow.  Anyway, I am thinking about making a small 2 inch PVC reach tube to insert over the handle to at least get the seacock arm moving.  Then I can also notch the PVC end to fit over handle to press down to complete the full close.  For springtime, I will make a small hook arm to pull up on the handle to open again.   I also made a dahs tag to Be placed near the keys to identify "seacocks Open or Seacock closed".  other than finding a Mini-Me to get down there, anyone else have better suggestion on accessing these?  One of the downsides to the 2002 342 is the limited room in the engine bay, ughh…..    

Liberty44140

Good idea on making a PVC device. You definitely have to close them to winterize through the drives. First fall with my boat I left them open and pumped 2 gal of antifreeze through the drive and out the thru hull before I realized I'd better close the thru hull! After I winterize, I re open the thru hulls, I dont leave them closed all winter, just in case some water is trapped.

Autodog61

Mine stays on the water year round so closing them is about winterization but also about not accidentally? flooding the boat.  I highly doubt that would happen because the impellers are slightly above the outside water level but its a best practice to close them if you are not running the boat every couple weeks.  I learned a lesson with my Pachanga when I ran the engines on outdrive mufflers/garden hose while on the trailer in the spring.  Forgot about the new thru hull pick ups and promptly burned up both impellers.  After that, for the trailer boat I had water connection on the outdrive (alphas) and fake a lake water connector for thru hull.  Ran one engine at a time with a garden hose T to both fake a lake and outdrive clamp.  Was a PITA each spring but it worked.  For winterization I simply drained the water out of the outdrives and never had an issue (also had fresh water cooling on the blocks).   

For the 342 winterization on the water, there are about 3? ports that are drained in the engine compartment I think.  That's what those blue wing nuts/hand pump/Schrader connectors are for throughout the cooling lines.  I suppose closing the thru hulls would also prevent a siphon effect during winterization too.  But, what about the Bravo III outdrive pick ups?  Those are also directly connected to the pickup impellers, right?.  I will have to go back and review my Mercrusier manual for that part....Cant remember the procedure to isolate from pick up line......