How to open the engine hatch with the batteries disconnected

LaRea

On boats with an electric engine hatch, there are three ways to open the hatch when the batteries are disconnected.  

Few people know about this one:  (thanks @Liberty44140 )

1) Connect the boat to shore power, and turn on the battery charger.  At the cockpit breaker panel, turn all battery switches to the ON position, and turn on the "Helm Power" switch.    

Most people know these two:

2)  Connect a 12-volt battery to the jumper posts on the DC breaker panel located in the cockpit.  On some Rinker boats, you can also reverse the polarity to close the hatch, but that will not work on all models.

3)  Remove the base for the cockpit table, reach in with your arm, and remove the release pin at the top of the actuator.  Then you can manually open the hatch (which can be quite heavy).

kordo

What kind of charger do you have?  I have read that some chargers can suffer damage when the batteries are not connected.  For instance, if you only have 2 battery banks and the charger can charge 3, the extra connection has to be connected to one of the connections being used for the other 2.  

raybo3

I agree using the charger is not a good idea. 

LaRea

I checked the manuals for my new charger (a Blue Sea Systems 7517) and the old OEM charger that I took out.  Neither had any warnings about operating with batteries disconnected.  But you've got me wondering now ...

Handymans342

Well it just will sit there idle 

Michael T

@LaRea in case you are now back to solar panel charging. I called a friend a couple of days ago about solar charging precautions. He will soon be in the Virgin Islands on his 36`sailboat until April. He thrives on solar panels and TPPL batteries. His advice if you have solar panel(s) worth using you should have them regulated. He uses top performance fixed hard panel monocrystalline panels with sophisticated computerized charge controllers. He said that degree of sophistication was NOT necessary for the average power boater but he did recommend a reasonably priced solar converter. He believed small units 8-10 amps ran around $25 with units able to control up to 30 amps (a pretty decent sized system) at about $100.

LaRea

Thanks MT.  If I was going that route, 1 amp would probably suffice.  My plan is to open the hatch with a jump box and close it with the charger (unless somebody convinces me otherwise).

Ian

One thing this thread has told me is it is time to check the backup opening through the posts method. Not used before so come open up time it’s a good first task to run. 

LaRea

If it's the first time, you might need to cut a slit in the insulation on the underside of the hatch.

Ian

I mean switch box posts.  I keep the batteries connected but switched off and flip them on when working on the boat on the hard. I’ll just take a jump box and check it out next time. 

MarkB

Just a suggestion, if you have to remove the table post and reach in to pull the pin, it's a long reach and not easy. I had my pin reversed, so it faces the compartment next to the bench seat on starboard. Drill a 3" whole on the bottom of the bench seat and then plug it with a removable cap.  The pin is literally right next to the whole, and easy to get to.

Michael T

@MarkB - I think I remember you posting this a while back? GREAT idea!

reneechris14

If your going to lift the hatch, lift it 2" and pull the pin that's way it has the slide thing on the top. I would stick some thing in the way so I don't crush my hand. But your going to pull it Manually any ways. With 4 big dudes.

reneechris14

see the slot on top,raise a little pull pin raise all the way up ** don't look at the bilge this is the care of the PO**

Cableguy Greg

I wasn't looking at the bilge, I was looking at the Fram oil filter.

LaRea

To me, manual opening is an absolute last resort.  The engine hatch on a 342 or 370 is a heavy, awkward beast.  If it somehow gets dropped, it will amputate any body part in its path.  Like @reneechris14 said -- four big dudes, with everyone being super-careful.

Ian

Exactly, even on the FV310 it takes 3 to open past the point where it's balanced and one can hold it, it's a large dead weight on some strong hinges and mounts.

Cableguy Greg

Even the one on the 280EC is very heavy. You must be careful opening any of them manually.

Dream_Inn

Yeah, I had screwed up my shoulder while manually lifting the one on my 400 (with 3 other people and using lines with leverage).

zaverin1

You can always  just cut it off

kordo

An old topic but my mechanic came up with a suggestion to add to the 3 that LaRea came up with at the beginning of this topic.  My mechanic said that you can rig up a 12v plug (10 amp) with a few feet of wire and another 12v plug at the other end.  Plug one end into a jumper battery and other into the house acc 12v socket.  Press the hatch up or down and away you go.  Sounds to me like it should work.  Any opinions?  Thanks.

LaRea

Interesting suggestion.  Anybody ever tried it?  I think it should work.

rasbury

When I pulled my motor I used the shore power but don't recall if the charger was on or off...ran it up and down several times..far as I know not any issues. 

boatman37

My Crownline has these terminals. I hook jumper cables to it and everything works. Not sure if this is factory or if you can buy this and install yourself....(can't seem to post image directly)

https://i.postimg.cc/4NmJ6nZp/IMG_0317.jpg

RustyS

I'm watching this one closely....

For the past two seasons, when winterizing I always remove batteries. My 300 is one of those that connecting to the posts does NOT close the hatch by reversing.

My solution has been to tap 2 wires directly in to the power wires to the lift cylinder; then run them through scupper to swim platform, and connect directly to battery. Then the cylinder can be operated in both directions.

Problem is this procedure fries the relays on backside of battery switch panel. They aren't expensive ($8-$10 each), but a PITA every year to replace.

If I'm reading the original post correctly, with NO BATTERIES in boat, plugged into shore power, with battery charger on, and battery switches ON, and helm power ON, the hatch should operate?? That would be SWEET!

I also am interested in the 12v plug method @kordo mentions....This sounds much safer without frying any other electronics (battery charger). This presumably back-feeds everything to make the switch work? There must be a combination of battery switches and helm power breaker requiring ON position as well I'm guessing.

 I still have the OEM charger and it operates fine so I don't want to risk.

Good topic, and I'm hoping to nail down a solution!

Willhound

Luckily mine works both ways off the posts at the battery switch so I just use a portable battery pack to open and close when batteries are out. For those that don't then the solution mentioned above would be great. I would have to think however that if you're going to power up your charger and electrical system with no batteries attached that you would want to ensure that all of your cables are in order with no chance of touching each other and creating a spark or short??

Stodge

Since I've managed to bend some dinghy stand-offs (twice) on the back of the engine hatch/transom area so I'm a little careful when I open the hatch.  I've always had the transom door open inside, which covers the battery panel.  Will the engine hatch open safely if I open the transom door "out" (over the swim platform)?  

Dream_Inn

@stodge - most battery panel doors allow you to open them all the way up, then you can open the transom door to the inside and raise hatch.  This still allows some access to the battery panel with the transom door only in the way a little, but not holding the battery panel door closed.

Stodge

Dream_Inn said:

@stodge - most battery panel doors allow you to open them all the way up, then you can open the transom door to the inside and raise hatch.  This still allows some access to the battery panel with the transom door only in the way a little, but not holding the battery panel door closed.

I'll have to look again.  I want to say my transom door only has a little clearance at the bottom.  Not sure how much of the battery panel would show in that case.  I'll try to get a picture.  

LaRea

RustyS said:

...If I'm reading the original post correctly, with NO BATTERIES in boat, plugged into shore power, with battery charger on, and battery switches ON, and helm power ON, the hatch should operate?? That would be SWEET! ...

Yup, that's how it works on my boat.  So far, I haven't heard from anybody saying it did not work.  And yes, gotta make sure the cables in the ER are safely stowed!

reneechris14

Yes transom down open all the way  and raise the engine hatch. This is the only time i move my transom door. Any one touches it i tell them is cost $50 bucks. It stays hooked to the snap all year. (OK i do close it if the grandkids come down. )