will the hatch work/

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  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,410 ✭✭✭✭✭
    So, pulled my exhaust apart...don't know much about risers and manifolds....but mine do not look good. I have heard talk of wet ones, dry ones...how do I know what I have and what is the difference?. One of my flaps is toast...
  • randy56randy56 Member Posts: 4,083 ✭✭✭✭✭
    There is no way you can get that engine out with out unhooking the lift, and raising the hatch 90 degrees,  sorry. It's not that hard I do it by my self. It is a little harder coming down and reattaching by your self but I do it. so you can. 
    Boat Name : 

  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,410 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Randy- not a problem, I put it at 90 anytime I'm in there...i was just wondering how to work the hatch with the batteries out...
  • reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @rasbury let me tell you about a wet joint and a dry joint. A wet joint is what you have the exiting water goes though the manifold up though the riser and out over board. A dry joint the manifold has antifreeze in it. The exiting water goes out though the riser and over board. The gasket is solid between the riser and manifold. A dry joint.
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • zaverin1zaverin1 Member Posts: 1,672 ✭✭✭
    And fap could be either Old over heat or just tear and wear
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,410 ✭✭✭✭✭
    So from what I read on line, from 04 forward everything met made is a dry joint? If a wet joint has antifreeze, it still has water circulating through the heads/manifold? I pulled my elbows, broke loose the riser and it was not pretty. I did not take a good look at the elbow, but assume it is just a tube? So how does the exhaust and water get separated when they exit the boat?
  • reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Wet joint is just sea water. The exhaust and water mix at the end off the riser,then exit together. If your looking to buy manifolds, look at changing to a full closed system. For you it's just thermostat housing and some hoses. Your heat exchanger is big enough.
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,410 ✭✭✭✭✭
    so....I was in a pretty quick hurry when I pulled the riser apart as I'm trying to get the motor out Friday ( now looks like Monday) but when I pulled the riser apart it looked like the rear hole for water was plugged- I was thinking crud but the more I thought about it, it seemed pretty solid like intentional....is that possible on a closed cooling?? Interesting thought on the full closed system...I will see if I can find something to look at but if it is that simple, why does Merc bother with a 1/2 closed or whatever it would be called? I'd love it to be a fully closed system and then the raw water only cools the heat exchanger correct? How do I tell if what I have is not already fully closed cooling??
  • reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Full closed would be block heads and manifolds 
    1/2 is just block and heads.
    Look at the post in the engine bay thread you will see the hoses.
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Some of those gaskets are only open on the sides not the front and back. I guess to slow down the water folw?
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,410 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I will look at this more once I have the motor out, get some pictures etc. so you all can see what I have.....anyone want to buy a boat cheap? JK- I will get this figured out...hopefully the motor is ok and no damage has been done.
  • zaverin1zaverin1 Member Posts: 1,672 ✭✭✭
    I’ll say motor is fine and flap was a over heat or just fell apart from age.
    what you are seeing is effects of salt water on the exhaust system.
    reason why saltire love fresh water boats.
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