Electrical outlets only working when connected to shore power..?

Nick_03FV310

Have a 2003 FV310 and noticed Saturday while out on the water that none of our electrical outlets work when we are anchored down in the water. I looked at all breakers in the cabin and none of them state "outlets" and I've also tried flipping every single one to see if they gave power and none did. Then when we got home for the day and connected to shorepower, they all worked again. Is there another switch or breaker I should be looking for somewhere? I checked the battery switch panel as well and couldn't find anything. 

Thanks!

Handymans342

Were You running the generator?

Nick_03FV310

We are not equipped with a generator unfortunately. 

Cableguy Greg

Since you do not have a generator, the 120VAC outlets will only work when connected to shore power.

Nick_03FV310

Ah well that makes all the more sense. Thanks Cableguy!

Handymans342

This was a joke, right???

Willhound

Now Handy, be nice....not everybody is tech savvy. That's why we're here to help.

J3ff

I didn't get that either, when I first owned a boat with outlets on it :P 

Cableguy Greg

Nick_03FV310 said:

Ah well that makes all the more sense. Thanks Cableguy!

You're welcome. You can go with a portable genny, like a Honda, Ryobi or Yamaha that will power the outlets and run your air conditioner while anchored out. That is what I do.

Dude_Himself

At least Nick accepted that as the correct answer. The guy on TheHullTruth basically called us all dlcks, didn't know what we were talking about, there was special systems on his boat, etc. It was painful to watch.

Nick: there are a few options depending on what you're trying to use it for. Easiest thing is to maximize the 12V stuff: charging cell phone? Get a car charger. Charging laptop? Get a car charger for the laptop (DC-DC buck converter). Watching TV? Get a 12V TV.

Mid-draw devices, like a gaming system or toothbrush charger (my life goal is to stay on the boat long enough my brush dies): install an inverter. A small 500W inverter will run most devices in your home that aren't hardwired in, save a hair drier or curling iron.

Want to run the AC on battery? Win the lottery. The larger draw the device, the larger battery bank and inverter you'll need.

Want to add a generator to charge battery and run AC? Get a 2000 watt unit and set it on the swim platform. Get a handful of 10-year battery powered CO detectors, keep them turned on and near the heads of sleeping persons. This could save your life.

Have fun!

Nick_03FV310

Thanks @Dude_Himself -- I really appreciate the insight. 

In lieu of this electrical talk -- What are your thoughts on running the radio with the subwoofer on, on battery power only? From my automotive sub days, I knew that a car battery couldn't handle a subwoofer for too long without draining it. Does this go the same for the marine side of things? Our sub is connected to an accessory switch and I've pretty much always turned it off once the engines turn off. Standard practice for others? 

GMSLITHO

I run the radio, amp and fridge also a small fan in the cabin on the # 2 battery for hours and still start up on the # 2 battery no problem 

Willhound

Depends on your set up. How much power does your sub and amp draw? How many and what series of house batteries do you have? What is their condition? Is the stereo running off the house circuit or starting circuit? All has to be taken into consideration .
Many of us  run a stereo all day on battery with no issues.

Dude_Himself

I have a 280 EC. I have two Group 31 batteries, one is my house, one is my starting battery. They're both Duracell Marine AGM batteries, around 105AH. I can run about 36 hours with the fridge, radio, a 12V fan, and various lights and cell phone chargers before the voltage drops enough to start damaging the battery.

A subwoofer and amp would likely be fine for an 8 hour day. If your concerned get a 100W solar panel and a controller - it'll keep you topped off.