What outdrive anti fouling paint works best for salt water ,I’m on a lake but looking for a recommendation for my brother his drive got eaten up last year on the Hudson and it’s brackish
If it got eaten up real bad it could be a stray current from a different boat or dock. It’s definitely something to look out for. I had a slip neighbor that didn’t do any maintenance, engine didn’t even run. The end of that season all of my anodes were 100% gone. The marina kicked her out, next season my anodes almost looked like new when the boat came out.
If the drive got eaten up in brackish water, it could be an electrical problem -- either on his boat, or a neighbor's.
Let me guess. He's slipped next to an older boat whose owner never visits, but leaves the shore power plugged in all the time. Probably a sailboat. I struggled with corrosion for 15 years until the old sailboat next to me moved to the other end of the pier. Then my corrosion problems suddenly disappeared.
The main reason to use anti-fouling paint on outdrives is to control marine fouling, not corrosion. But once you have corrosion, you probably need to touch up the paint annually.
Way Beyoncé touch up he has to replace the drive it’s so eaten up . The PO added so much electrical stump added there is wiring run all over .to be honest I never saw anything like it and my dads old wood pacemaker had a couple miles of wire running through it
My dock neighbors boat in freshwater would eat my anodes after about a year. Well last year his boat started sinking so they fixed whatever the issue was and moved the boat to another circuit and now after a year my anodes are barely touched.
Now on the subject of anti fouling paint I don't think that would help with electrical current in the water.
Yes that is the other issue boaters don't realize. They may be called zincs but that is sorta incorrect. Technically they are sacrificial or less noble metal anodes and there is three types. Zinc is for saltwater, aluminum is for brackish and magnesium is for freshwater.
Galvanic corrosion or electrolysis is much more prevalent in saltwater so you may need zinc anodes and a galvanic isolator.
You can use use a multimeter probe in the water I don't recall the exact process but if you look it up Google will explain it, they even showed me how babies were made.
No it wasn't Google it was actually a much more adult site 😂.
I think you put the multimeter on the ground block and the other probe in the water and check for current levels. It was a whole process that I never did but I did read about it.
Comments
Now on the subject of anti fouling paint I don't think that would help with electrical current in the water.
https://boatzincs.com/corrosion-reference-electrode-specs.html
The incorrect ‘zincs’ in brackish water can cause problems too.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
Galvanic corrosion or electrolysis is much more prevalent in saltwater so you may need zinc anodes and a galvanic isolator.
I think you put the multimeter on the ground block and the other probe in the water and check for current levels. It was a whole process that I never did but I did read about it.
https://www.powerandmotoryacht.com/uncategorized/stray-current-test
PC BYC, Holland, MI
Regards,
Ian
The Third “B”
Secretary, Ravena Coeymans Yacht Club
https://www.rcyachtclub.com/