May need some help........

oscar1oscar1 Member Posts: 803 ✭✭✭
in Rinker Express Cruisers Forum
I have the following problem which it become frustrate at this point. as the following photo i have an alarm about the trim limit. i replace both trim limit in both engine, clean every ground connector for the engine, as following in a forum I replace the engine mecathor system. after everything done i still getting the following alarm intermittent now. it mean it happened sometime when i start the engines and sometime when i am running the boat and something it doesn't happen during my trip..IT is real frustrated because i don't have any clue what can be causing this issue. I was told to replace the harness which connect the engine trim sender and maybe the herm control too. any advice or if anyone have this issue before will be appreciate. One more note my mechanic can not figure the issue too. Thanks  
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  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,795 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited January 19
    Computers...is it possible that the program running all this stuff needs to be reflashed? Being in the auto industry for many years and more computer controls- if something was "out of character" that's one of the first things ford would have the shop do- no clue if that is possible on your smartcraft.  I have a 270 but it has a 350/bravo III- I don't have a trim alarm as I don't have smartcraft.  I see its smartcraft but i would not know where it gets the signal- perhaps from the drive switch itself? Are they going up and down with no hickups?  Check all that wiring if that is what smartcraft is seeing?I know there is a calibration process for normal gauge- there must be something for the smart craft as well- it's just an electronic signal right? Maybe one is falling just out of range occasionally- any pattern when it does go off? Nothing else mechanical on the drives to send that signal.
    I recall you asking about how they are replaced so assume this was not a new problem....if you are not at a mercury shop I'd look at what's making the noise as the problem!
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  • earl1z19earl1z19 Member Posts: 365 ✭✭✭
    I get the same alarm on mine every season or at least I used to. It came down to the pivot pin on the transom assembly. The sender on mine would loose contact with the pin and then stop sending a signal and then throw the code. The G3 software would show a signal coming from the sender so we would recalibrate the drives. That recalibration would last a few weeks maybe a month and then go bad again. My solution was to hang a  new sender on the inside of the transom and plug it into the harness while disconnecting the old sender that is on the drive. its not the perfect solution but it works for me. Not sure if this is the same situation for you but its worth trying before you go any further.
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  • oscar1oscar1 Member Posts: 803 ✭✭✭
    rasbury said:
    Computers...is it possible that the program running all this stuff needs to be reflashed? Being in the auto industry for many years and more computer controls- if something was "out of character" that's one of the first things ford would have the shop do- no clue if that is possible on your smartcraft.  I have a 270 but it has a 350/bravo III- I don't have a trim alarm as I don't have smartcraft.  I see its smartcraft but i would not know where it gets the signal- perhaps from the drive switch itself? Are they going up and down with no hickups?  Check all that wiring if that is what smartcraft is seeing?I know there is a calibration process for normal gauge- there must be something for the smart craft as well- it's just an electronic signal right? Maybe one is falling just out of range occasionally- any pattern when it does go off? Nothing else mechanical on the drives to send that signal.
    I recall you asking about how they are replaced so assume this was not a new problem....if you are not at a mercury shop I'd look at what's making the noise as the problem!
    It is the same problem, after the replacement of the trim sender the issue still there. I was told to read resistance on the engine harness, but i don't have a clue what the reading show be. I continue doing some homework in ohms reading in a boat engine hardness. thank for the info.
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  • oscar1oscar1 Member Posts: 803 ✭✭✭
    earl1z19 said:
    I get the same alarm on mine every season or at least I used to. It came down to the pivot pin on the transom assembly. The sender on mine would loose contact with the pin and then stop sending a signal and then throw the code. The G3 software would show a signal coming from the sender so we would recalibrate the drives. That recalibration would last a few weeks maybe a month and then go bad again. My solution was to hang a  new sender on the inside of the transom and plug it into the harness while disconnecting the old sender that is on the drive. its not the perfect solution but it works for me. Not sure if this is the same situation for you but its worth trying before you go any further.
    would you have a photo of how you set the new sender in your transom.. anything that you can provide would be appreciate. Thank you....
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  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 5,364 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Hey @oscar1 what condition is the area where the hinge pin (bolt) connects the gimbal ring to the bellhousing? Since that's where the sender mounts, I could see how corrosion in that area might cause issues?
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
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  • PickleRickPickleRick Member Posts: 4,249 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Mercruiser's trim-sender is a potentiometric one with a down-resistance of 10 Ohms and an up-resistance of 167 Ohms.


    (Values for ohm meter testing -- 10-167 ohms across the 2 wires. )

    With a Multi meter on ohm setting with leads in plugged into correct positions ( verify meter work by touching leads together and getting something close to 0 ohms on meter indicator )

    Connect the meter leads to the 2 trim sensor wires ( These should be disconnected from boat )

    Spin the sensor housing to center section & look for readings that are variable as it turns and in this range.
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  • earl1z19earl1z19 Member Posts: 365 ✭✭✭
    oscar1 said:
    earl1z19 said:
    I get the same alarm on mine every season or at least I used to. It came down to the pivot pin on the transom assembly. The sender on mine would loose contact with the pin and then stop sending a signal and then throw the code. The G3 software would show a signal coming from the sender so we would recalibrate the drives. That recalibration would last a few weeks maybe a month and then go bad again. My solution was to hang a  new sender on the inside of the transom and plug it into the harness while disconnecting the old sender that is on the drive. its not the perfect solution but it works for me. Not sure if this is the same situation for you but its worth trying before you go any further.
    would you have a photo of how you set the new sender in your transom.. anything that you can provide would be appreciate. Thank you....
    Oscar, I just plugged it in and zip tied it to the harness on the transom. You could easily attach it to a piece of starboard or something similar  to make it look more professional and then hang the star board to the transom.  i did go through the calibration process on the smartcraft so that it thinks everything is as it should be. At some point I want to fix it properly by addressing the pivot pin issue but for now this is a good solution.
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  • PickleRickPickleRick Member Posts: 4,249 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited January 20
    It's a 10 ohm resistance at the full down position.   For about 10 bucks you can purchase a hand full of 10 ohm resistors from eBay/Amazon 

    Crimp some bullet connectors on each end and plug it into your trim wire.  Heat shrink for a little added safety 

    Assuming your wiring from the connector up is good, this would leave the vessel always seeing the drive at the down position.  

    I've never used resistors for this purpose but they work amazingly well for fooling vehicles into making LED signal bulbs achieve proper resistance so the blinker relay doesn't click a million miles an hour.

    Watch your drive at low tide and around coral heads!  


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  • oscar1oscar1 Member Posts: 803 ✭✭✭
    YYZRC said:
    Hey @oscar1 what condition is the area where the hinge pin (bolt) connects the gimbal ring to the bellhousing? Since that's where the sender mounts, I could see how corrosion in that area might cause issues?
    I replace the transom assembly for the starboard engine 4 year ago. so far not corrosion in the area.
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  • oscar1oscar1 Member Posts: 803 ✭✭✭
    PickleRick said:
    Mercruiser's trim-sender is a potentiometric one with a down-resistance of 10 Ohms and an up-resistance of 167 Ohms.


    (Values for ohm meter testing -- 10-167 ohms across the 2 wires. )

    With a Multi meter on ohm setting with leads in plugged into correct positions ( verify meter work by touching leads together and getting something close to 0 ohms on meter indicator )

    Connect the meter leads to the 2 trim sensor wires ( These should be disconnected from boat )

    Spin the sensor housing to center section & look for readings that are variable as it turns and in this range.
    I really appreciate the info........
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  • oscar1oscar1 Member Posts: 803 ✭✭✭
    earl1z19 said:
    oscar1 said:
    earl1z19 said:
    I get the same alarm on mine every season or at least I used to. It came down to the pivot pin on the transom assembly. The sender on mine would loose contact with the pin and then stop sending a signal and then throw the code. The G3 software would show a signal coming from the sender so we would recalibrate the drives. That recalibration would last a few weeks maybe a month and then go bad again. My solution was to hang a  new sender on the inside of the transom and plug it into the harness while disconnecting the old sender that is on the drive. its not the perfect solution but it works for me. Not sure if this is the same situation for you but its worth trying before you go any further.
    would you have a photo of how you set the new sender in your transom.. anything that you can provide would be appreciate. Thank you....
    Oscar, I just plugged it in and zip tied it to the harness on the transom. You could easily attach it to a piece of starboard or something similar  to make it look more professional and then hang the star board to the transom.  i did go through the calibration process on the smartcraft so that it thinks everything is as it should be. At some point I want to fix it properly by addressing the pivot pin issue but for now this is a good solution.
    how do you know where your drive is when you trim the outdrive or you are using the other drive as reference for trim position?
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