I can follow instructions real well and I have a good meter...so proceed on! The boat is back to storage so will be a couple of weeks before I see it with my schedule..
Well no...my point is the pumps work fine manually but not on the floats so it seems that is what I need to check first? So if something is wrong with the float in the bielge could it trip the breaker on the mid ship?
So @PickleRick how do u check the float switch and the power to the pump? Can one bad float blow the circuit on both? I assume since the manual switch can run both pumps they must be tied in together somehow....
If you have more than one float they could be wired together in a circuit and one being out could affect both, like old school Christmas lights.
The floats are a normally open switch. At rest the circuit is open or N.O. when lifted it closes aka completes the circuit. If you disconnect each wire from the float, attach each end your multi meter and you should see continuity when lifted and none when laid down.
If that checks out then check to see if you are getting power to the floats. The battery side of the float wire should see a constant 12v +.
You could simply have bad connection at butt end spices. They are usually in the bilge where water and all sorts of oils get to them.
BTW it's spelled "bilge" not "bielge." (This is where the Admiral would normally smack me and make a wisecrack about Dave Barry's "Ask Mr. Language Person.")
it's blowing the breaker which would make me think it's a bad BILGE pump motor causing the issue....but they work OK when you hit the manual switch. I will check this out in a couple of weeks when I bring it back to the house....to much going on the next two weekends and it will be summer by then anyway...
If its a bad bilge pump motor it should trip the breaker manually too unless one of them isn't being powered manually and the bad one only gets power automatically.
These type of issues are so hard to diagnose over the internet. When infront of me i can diagnose in 10 to 15 min then tell the person what to replace, its a little harder over text lol
I’ve been wanting to get Velcro straps to keep the pump neat. I came across these at Home Depot for under $3 each. Will be nice if there’s a spot in the bilge to clip on to. If not, the clips are removable.
A couple stainless mount d rings dont cost much, maybe 10 bucks for a pack of 5. They come in handy for organization or just keeping things from siding around.
I’m actually thinking if it strap it to the engine hatch prop rod (not actuator) it would be a nice spot. Out of the way but within reach when the hatch is up.
I put mine under a seat in the front birth. I will be able to put it on the swim platform and i have enough hose to reach the bielge so feel pretty good to have it.
Comments
The floats are a normally open switch. At
rest the circuit is open or N.O. when lifted it closes aka completes the circuit. If you disconnect each wire from the float, attach each end your multi meter and you should see continuity when lifted and none when laid down.
If that checks out then check to see if you are getting power to the floats. The battery side of the float wire should see a constant 12v +.
You could simply have bad connection at butt end spices. They are usually in the bilge where water and all sorts of oils get to them.
These type of issues are so hard to diagnose over the internet. When infront of me i can diagnose in 10 to 15 min then tell the person what to replace, its a little harder over text lol
Thanks pickle for the direction..