aaaah, think I will just use my butt clips and a lighter and call it a day...looks like the mid ship one is all I have to replace right now, will hang on to the other one until the other one goes...
Solder them. You are not needing to disconnect that often to have to have a disconnection point. Shrink over the top, as @PickleRick said you’ll get moisture in but less concerns if soldered and shrunk properly.
Ok- I can't figure out these friggin wires...on the boat harness side I have three wires....one is hot, one is ground and the third I assume goes to the manual switch. From the float switch I have to gray wires, one still has a splitter on it I did not cut out and then the pump itself has a wire marked as positive and then a black for ground...I can get the pump to run but the switch is not on and the float is not up- where do the wires run🤪
I see diagrams for a on off switch and a float but it only shows two wires to get it done not three from the harness side...
well it makes sense but does not work, at least completely...
So, from the boat side I have a black wire (ground), Orange wire (hot) and then another wire I assume is for the switch.
On the other side, I have a float switch with to gray wires, one of the gray wires has a splitter.
On the pump I have a red and a black.
So, assume the ground wire from the boat side goes to the ground wire on the pump so that takes care of those two.
The diagram I found has tow circuit breakers which I do not have.
So, I run my power wire to the splitter which goes to the pump and the float switch. The other wire I ran to the wire for what I assume is the switch, no were else for it to really go. It works off the float switch, but will not do anything off the help switch. Only power goes through the float, no ground....so I'd have a power side going to the help switch from the perko..**** I don't know, I can't figure out anything that makes sense....the ump should run off the help and the float for the mid ship pump right?
I also tested the float for continuity and it functions properly...
Can you post pics of your new bilge pumps? Specifically the wiring?
You keep saying your float switch has a splitter, im thinking your old pumps were 2 wire so the splitter was to the dash switch, bypassing the float to give 12v pos.
Your new pumps probably have 3 wires.
You need to use a multi meter or test light to verify you get 12v pos from the switch wire.
You have 2 breakers? One for each pump?
I have my 2 rear ones wired in together but my front one independent.
thanks for the reply @PickleRick I have two breakers back by the battery switch...the pop out types...I looked this am real quick under the steering wheel as there is a mass of them there also that I have no clue what they are...but nothing was popped.
The pumps look identical to the ones I took out, different brand and there are two wires.
If you look at the diagram above you see a split on the power side....hot wire goes to the pump and the float and then a wire to the switch...which makes perfect sense to be but it won't run anything on the switch, just the float. I did not check that wire for power...I will do that tonight and I don't have power I guess I pull the dash apart and make sure I did not pull the wire lose or something....
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Regards,
Ian
The Third “B”
Secretary, Ravena Coeymans Yacht Club
https://www.rcyachtclub.com/
I see diagrams for a on off switch and a float but it only shows two wires to get it done not three from the harness side...
Does your pump have an internal float?
So, from the boat side I have a black wire (ground), Orange wire (hot) and then another wire I assume is for the switch.
On the other side, I have a float switch with to gray wires, one of the gray wires has a splitter.
On the pump I have a red and a black.
So, assume the ground wire from the boat side goes to the ground wire on the pump so that takes care of those two.
The diagram I found has tow circuit breakers which I do not have.
So, I run my power wire to the splitter which goes to the pump and the float switch. The other wire I ran to the wire for what I assume is the switch, no were else for it to really go. It works off the float switch, but will not do anything off the help switch. Only power goes through the float, no ground....so I'd have a power side going to the help switch from the perko..**** I don't know, I can't figure out anything that makes sense....the ump should run off the help and the float for the mid ship pump right?
I also tested the float for continuity and it functions properly...
You keep saying your float switch has a splitter, im thinking your old pumps were 2 wire so the splitter was to the dash switch, bypassing the float to give 12v pos.
Your new pumps probably have 3 wires.
You need to use a multi meter or test light to verify you get 12v pos from the switch wire.
You have 2 breakers? One for each pump?
I have my 2 rear ones wired in together but my front one independent.
I have two breakers back by the battery switch...the pop out types...I looked this am real quick under the steering wheel as there is a mass of them there also that I have no clue what they are...but nothing was popped.
The pumps look identical to the ones I took out, different brand and there are two wires.
If you look at the diagram above you see a split on the power side....hot wire goes to the pump and the float and then a wire to the switch...which makes perfect sense to be but it won't run anything on the switch, just the float. I did not check that wire for power...I will do that tonight and I don't have power I guess I pull the dash apart and make sure I did not pull the wire lose or something....
Sorry if that sounds like a stupid question, i want to rule our simple error.