Reducing bilge water.

RiverRat232

One goal I've had this winter is making an attempt to reduce bilge water. I've checked the bellows and all through hull fittings but nothing seems "leaky". One thing I did notice was the brass plug didn't have any kind of caulk or Teflon tape on it. Could that be the culprit? The boat will take on about a gallon or two per hour while operating and around 2-3 gallons after a week of sitting in the slip. Does that seem excessive?

PickleRick

Unless its rain water the bilge should be taking in zero water.

Got a bore scope type wireless camera you can mount in the bilge while running if you cant find a possible source of water?  

Y pipe, bellows, shifter cable, thru hulls, trim hoses, any hardware going through the transom ( trim tab sceews) are all possibilities as well as leaky manifolds, water hoses, etc

aero3113

Check your steering pin in the transom assembly. Sometimes they don’t leak till you have weight in the boat.

RiverRat232

So my goal should be zero bilge water other than rain? If I removed all through hull fittings and resealed, what product is best? Silicone? I read about another test where you use a garden hose to fill the bilge while the boat is out of the water and look for water leaking out. I may try that when it warms up.

aero3113

@RiverRat232 , do you have an air conditioner? The condensation will run into the bilge.

PickleRick

Don't use silicone.  Clean the mating surfaces and use life calk or 4200.  

Yes you can fill your bilge with water to look for leaks, id only do this if i cant see the leak sitting in the water.  Any spot water can get into the wood core, it will absorb it like a sponge and promote rot

RiverRat232

aero3113 said:

@RiverRat232 , do you have an air conditioner? The condensation will run into the bilge.

No, it's a 232 Captiva cuddy.

PickleRick

Alpha 1?

RiverRat232

PickleRick said:

Don't use silicone.  Clean the mating surfaces and use life calk or 4200.  

Yes you can fill your bilge with water to look for leaks, id only do this if i cant see the leak sitting in the water.  Any spot water can get into the wood core, it will absorb it like a sponge and promote rot

Ok. I'll have to get some of that stuff. If I can't figure it out I'll take it to a pro this spring. I see boats sitting in their slips with the bilge pumps spraying water out all of the time. I just assumed some bilge water is normal. 

RiverRat232

PickleRick said:

Alpha 1?

Bravo 3

randy56

water heater?

RiverRat232

randy56 said:

water heater?

No. It has pressurized water but I have never used it. The tank still has the pink antifreeze in it.

RiverRat232

What about the plug? Do you guys use pipe dope or teflon tape on the threads?

aero3113

I usually use some 3M 4200 on the threads of the plug. You can also remove the plug assembly and reseal it and the screws with 3M 5200.

RiverRat232

aero3113 said:

I usually use some 3M 4200 on the threads of the plug. You can also remove the plug assembly and reseal it and the screws with 3M 5200.

Thanks. I'll put that on my list. 

PickleRick

If youre on a trailer i wouldnt use 4200 on the plug, for a slip kept boat its a great idea

Teflon tape makes less of a mess if youre removing every weekend. 

rasbury

I just ordered a scope that goes to my cell for 25 bucks- has a light, will zoom and take still pictures. Can't wait to get it for the same purpose.

RJY 8Mm Android Endoscope USB Borescope Inspection Camera Waterproof for with OTG and UVC Function 5M

PickleRick

Have you by chance tried to torque the transom shield nuts?  See if they are loose?

RiverRat232

PickleRick said:

Have you by chance tried to torque the transom shield nuts?  See if they are loose?

Where are they located?

PickleRick

Inside of hull, there are studs from the outdrive shield going thru the hull.  It's a tight fit as they are behind the engine.  30 ft lbs comes to mind but i just looked up specs on a kohler rebuid at the shop so i might be mixing up numbers.  @jeff shows good pics of these on his thread.

rasbury

They are only 38 ft lbs I beleve

PickleRick

38 sounds right. They are not lug nuts so don't crank them.  I am able to get almost 30 ft lbs of torque out of my battery powered Makita impact driver.  

RiverRat232

I'll put those on my list of things to check. Also, when it comes to recaulking the hull seams, would you use the 3M 4200 or something else?

PickleRick

Like where the upper and lower hull comes together?  If separating epoxy resin, probably thickened, for resealing the bolts that hold it together 4200 or 5200. 

RiverRat232

PickleRick said:

Like where the upper and lower hull comes together?  If separating epoxy resin, probably thickened, for resealing the bolts that hold it together 4200 or 5200. 

Yes, where the hull comes together and around fittings and where the railing goes into the hull.

Black_Diamond

Pull the whole drain plug assy. Bet you it is not or poorly sealed / caulked. Water will go right around it.  

You might guess why I know this. 😆

I use teflon pipe dope on the threads. Teflon tape is not ideal for npt threads. 

PickleRick

I agree teflon tape isnt ideal but a drain plug isn't high pressure, water wants to bond to its self unlike petrol based fluids so it doesnt take much sealing to keep water from passing through a small area.

Rust will stop up pin holes in a leaky hot water heater! 

You shouldn't need any sealer on pipe thread but things wear over the years.




Do you see light where the hull halves connect?  Most, if not all of that should be above the water line.

RiverRat232

Black_Diamond said:

Pull the whole drain plug assy. Bet you it is not or poorly sealed / caulked. Water will go right around it.  

You might guess why I know this. 😆

I use teflon pipe dope on the threads. Teflon tape is not ideal for npt threads. 

Added to my list. Thanks

rasbury

How would that asy come out??

PickleRick

Most I've seen are 3 screws.

rasbury

I don't see any kind of plate or anything on the outside...will have to take another look!