Tell me how you big single screw guys get on plane using your trim tabs

PickleRick

You guys with a 270 and the like, especially the early 2000s where the platfrom drug into the water when getting over the hump.  Im more looking for tips from you small block guys.  

I have a boat that weights in dry at sub 8000 lbs per factory but i have an 1100 lbs diesel.  Im sure my boat comes closer to 10k.  

I can get to about 22 knots (around 24mph) when the wind and lake is calm.  Im cutting about 3000 rpms, maybe a little more. My rpm gauge is about as accurate as our rinker gauges as it likes to stick from time to time. Usually a tap tap gets her moving again.

When i launch the boat i trim the tabs to push the bow down fully. This also improves no wake and hull speed (6/7 knots) tracking as she wonders badly without the tabs trimmed down.

Without the tabs my bow goes sky high when accelerating.  With them she seems to hit 18 knots(where she gets over the hump) pretty easily.  It still takes a min or two but she is a diesel, mpgs>speed.  Once up even at 20 knots any easing of the tabs will bring the bow higher and i lose speed.

My question is do you guys play with outdrive trim when crusing, set tabs?  Whats your method?   

Thanks ahead of time guys.  Rinkers rule.

Boat is a 2001 bayliner 2859 for reference.

Handymans342

You need to get A 4 blade big cow hill marine prop ASAP

Handymans342

And a boost gauge

PickleRick

I need to figure out my gear ratio first unless you think that hill marine will have that info on file

Willhound

Drive and tabs full down until on plane then tabs full up. Trim drive up just slightly to get a good plane. Adjust left or right tab to correct any list from wind or load. That's it.
I easily get in plane in about 8 seconds with full fuel and water and 2 to 3 on board. I figure fully loaded I'm about 9500 lbs.

trip_n

tabs dwn 2 red lights - no trim  power up n thru smoothly till i hear the lake pipes roar - cut back a bit - look left then right = hammer down = passing sea rays n mastercrafts = love the smile on my admirals face 

Dream_Inn

Rick, any chance you could move weight forward?  To me it sounds like you may have a little too much of your load aft.  You should be able to lift the tabs up once on plane.  If you just compare hp to weight ratio, I have 850hp but 25k lbs weight.  If I have a lot of weight on board, I notice a huge difference just by moving some of it up to the bow, especially at a cruising speed.  I will also agree with Handy, my Hill Marine Big Cow props literally made my boat get on plane twice as quick.  What drive do you have on her?

Handymans342

PickleRick said:

I need to figure out my gear ratio first unless you think that hill marine will have that info on file

They don’t need that but you need to know your current prop numbers. Pitch and diameter

PickleRick

Bravo 2. The bravo 3 doesn't so much hold together long on the diesels from what i hear.  Especially not on heavy boats.

PickleRick

Rinkers were built to pass searays

PickleRick

Dream_Inn said:

Rick, any chance you could move weight forward?  To me it sounds like you may have a little too much of your load aft.  You should be able to lift the tabs up once on plane.  If you just compare hp to weight ratio, I have 850hp but 25k lbs weight.  If I have a lot of weight on board, I notice a huge difference just by moving some of it up to the bow, especially at a cruising speed.  I will also agree with Handy, my Hill Marine Big Cow props literally made my boat get on plane twice as quick.  What drive do you have on her?

Im looking into this now.  I may be able to move my secondary bank under my table or under the v berth. 

Being that im hitting 3000 rpms plus i doubt I'm having perfomance issues other than a heavy boat.  I cannot remember my prop specs off hand other than 17 pitch.  Im pretty sure its 22 3/4 but 24 comes to mind too

trip_n

TORQUE 
boat test did a report few years back = i cant find

MiamiAG

Not sure what you have but I have a 2013 290ec with the Volvo Penta D4 diesel. It's a dual prop single screw and heavy.

In order to help cure constant overheating issues, Rinker/Volvo switched my original prop to something smaller and placed 200 lbs of chain in my anchor locker to provide more bow weight. This has mostly cured the issues. Crazy that they wouldn't have properly designed things for an engine they offer for the boat.

I trim down and full tab at the start then bring the tabs up when on plane. I trim the drive back to where I normally run when on plane. Lastly, adjust left or right tab to balance the boat.

Handymans342

You guys need to trim the drive too!

PickleRick

I have concrete to remove from my stern as well.  Port side.  Under batteries and hot water tank. Approx 175 lbs.

Used to help factory list.  

I have 200 ft of chain already.  Since i have bow thruster i already have huge cables running aft. Wont be hard to run a double bank forward. That's obviously winter work.

Adding a marine a.c. is first.  Might happen before winter. Was previously under the v berth and will probably go back there. Might help solve the issue.

aero3113

PickleRick said:

I have concrete to remove from my stern as well.  

Why do you have concrete at your stern?

PickleRick

Early models had a list and the engineers added weight port side to fix it.  Typical bayliner cheap easy fix design work.

Willhound

That is hilarious! But practical and cheap I guess.

J3ff

Hill marine prop(s) first!! They lift the stern, at least the 4 x 4 did on mine!!

PickleRick

Ill get specs and call tomorrow

J3ff

Before the props I would have to mess with drive trim and trim tabs all the time. After putting them on the drive trim did NOTHING... literally never touch it and trim tabs were only used to balance the boat because of weight or wind... never use them to get out of the hole. 

Handymans342

Low RPM diesels can’t spin the prop fast enough so that’s why you need a 4 blade

trip_n

its for trolling

trip_n

maybe this will help 
i found a pic @ wot

PickleRick

Diesels don't last long if you dont stretch their legs every now and then. Tends to coke the rings and damage the cylinders.

But you're right, this is 100% a crusing boat and could be very comforable with a.c. at the helm and a 100 hp inboard plus huge genset to run at hull speeds with all the creature comforts at your disposal.

PickleRick

To complete my venture into mid life crisis i may be trading the rinker for either a road glide or a porche convertible.

Soon ill be rambling about the great loop

Ian

Rinker for RoadGlide, yes. For a souped up VW - you're outta here

PickleRick

I already have a souped up turbo VW...and she's diesel lol.

trip_n

mine lasted to 325k miles when the o1m drive went out = chipped-dipped-injected
gave it to my daughter who put another 15/20k miles on it
sold it to a father n son in Michigan = 1800 they did a 5speed conversion 
we turned our 15 sportwagon back in during dzlegate

its a great boat
i would have to do the 454 unless i had the dough to make it a tdi/370
outboards would be killer with all that engine room for gen/storage
not into the bulkhead doors
i looked at several 
short comings for us = out door space / kitty pad = we are loungers not fishing
most have no generator

Lake_Bum

Tabs down, trim down, until planed out.  Then level the trim, and most of the time tabs up, but it all depends on lake condition.  Tabs are the majority of my adjustments on the fly....

skennelly

I'm about the same as @Lake_Bum tabs down trim down and raise gradually once on plane to the sweet spot