Simple questions
2_foot_i_tis
Member Posts: 39 ✭
Hello,
Looked at a 2004 Rinker 342.
(The owner was not available to show the boat, but let me look thru it.)
A few things that made me go hmmm.
1. The 350 mercruiser horizons had yellow hats. I have never seen yellow ones. I've seen flames which is generally a reman engine. But what is the yellow mean? Anything?
2. I turned the steering wheel all the way to one side, but the B3 outdrives didnt move. I then turned the wheel 6 rotations to the other side, but, again the drives didnt turn.
Out side the boat, I could push the outdrives (independently) a couple inches with not too much force. They looked a little off.... 1 was exactly straight, but the other was a few degrees off.
I probably answered my own question.. the outdrives must not have been hooked up tothe steering?...but why not? Any thoughts? Or things to look for?
3. I didnt have the keys, and boat was on blocks already winterized. But the outdrive would not trim up or down.. the pump didnt even kick on. It did have batteries in it. I was able to raise the engine hatch (had to lower with a portable jumper to the rear terminals, I dont think the battery was dead/dying,because I was able to raise the 2 times hatch but always had to close it with my battery jumper.)
- do you need the keys in the ignition to tilt trim the outdrives?
- do you need keys in the ignition to lower the eng hatch?
Thank you!
Looked at a 2004 Rinker 342.
(The owner was not available to show the boat, but let me look thru it.)
A few things that made me go hmmm.
1. The 350 mercruiser horizons had yellow hats. I have never seen yellow ones. I've seen flames which is generally a reman engine. But what is the yellow mean? Anything?
2. I turned the steering wheel all the way to one side, but the B3 outdrives didnt move. I then turned the wheel 6 rotations to the other side, but, again the drives didnt turn.
Out side the boat, I could push the outdrives (independently) a couple inches with not too much force. They looked a little off.... 1 was exactly straight, but the other was a few degrees off.
I probably answered my own question.. the outdrives must not have been hooked up tothe steering?...but why not? Any thoughts? Or things to look for?
3. I didnt have the keys, and boat was on blocks already winterized. But the outdrive would not trim up or down.. the pump didnt even kick on. It did have batteries in it. I was able to raise the engine hatch (had to lower with a portable jumper to the rear terminals, I dont think the battery was dead/dying,because I was able to raise the 2 times hatch but always had to close it with my battery jumper.)
- do you need the keys in the ignition to tilt trim the outdrives?
- do you need keys in the ignition to lower the eng hatch?
Thank you!
Comments
But since I could wiggle the outdrives a few inches, I assumed they were power and somehow disconnected.
Does the key need to be in the ignition to be able to raise/lower the outdrive?
Or maybe I failed to turn something on to give it power?
I had turned the 2 battery switches in the stern on, and flipped the 2 switches at the stern.
Was there any other switch I would have needed to flip?
I suppose the battery could be really low, but find it odd, that I was able to raise the engine hatch on boat battery. It wouldnt lower.
I first raised the hatch a couple inches, then tried to lower, it wouldnt go down, so I got out my jumper and put the hatch down.
Then on boat battery alone, I raised the hatch all the way up, but it would not go down on battery power.
So I used my jumper to the terminals.
I would think it would take more battery power to raise the hatch, than to lower it.
But it does seem to be power related.
Thanks for everyone's response.
Thanks
It shouldn't have more than 1/4" to 1/2" of play. Two inches of play is a dangerous condition. The likely culprit is failed seals in the transom assemblies, which has rusted out the steering pins.
The repair can't be postponed, and it's expensive. You would need to replace the transom assemblies. To have a mechanic do it, you're probably looking at $8k minimum. (I'm doing mine over the next few weeks on a 2007 boat.)
BTW on my 370 (and a 2003 342 before that), I need the keys on to trim the drives up.
So I could move 1 drive all the way left to right, (only limited to the stretch of the bellows.) And the other drive did not move.
So I assume the steering is disconnected... but why.. unless there was some major issue.
I question the seller about it , and he said the steering prob just needs to be adjusted... but I think he's hiding info!
Good to know about the drive trims/keys. Thank you
Port
Starboard
Looks like it was kept in water, probably pulled for winters. Looks like it sat on land this year.
Seller has been really vague with details! To the point where I'm ready to walk.
Maybe it's a scam.. I dont know.
Only communication has been thru craigslist email. I gave him my cell number (asked him to call, but he never did) but I dont his number. Reason for selling is that he moved away and cant use the boat as much anymore. he was unable to get someone to meet me and look over the boat. but reluctantly gave me the boat location, name of boat and said I could go look at it. (So because of his reluctance, I though he is legit.)because I am skeptical about craigslist.
I asked about maintenance records. And his response was "I have only had 1 mechanic that has worked on it." So.. dont know what to make of that. Maybe did his own work? And only had a mechanic do something one time?.. I dont know.
But maintence has not been kept up.
The starboard drive had zero anodes, (dont know if someone stole them while it sat) but the port side had anodes, that crumbled at the slightest touch.
The out drive condition is surprising not as bad as I have seen.. considering the anode condition.
But based on anodes, I'm sure the bellows havent been done since he bought it(maybe even longer before that!?.. but I could not poke a hole thru with my finger, but would still replace them.
So yeah, I have to figure new risers, manifolds, plugs, transom assemblies, bellows, 1 of the skegs is chipped off, bottom paint, batteries (4 still in the boat and sat thru last winter and summer
Water pumps, steering, fluid changes, since transom jobs, I would want to sand down the outdrives and repaint them. And the blue hull needs a professional detail to try to bring it back.
The topside and interior looks good condition. Small mic cosmetics. But since it has been sitting, closed up for so long, there is condensation forming I side, that will result in mold if he doesn't take care of it.
I am about 2.5 hours from the boats current location, so I would need to have it hauled closer to me. (But even moved closer it would still would be a 45 min drive to be able to work on it, so I'd prob hire a mechanic to do some of the work during the winter.)
Orig listed at 55k over summer, and dropped it to 52k in sept and then 45k.
Listing states...
"Has twin Merc 350 engines with 535 hours. Bravo III drives. Fresh Oil change, new Impellers and both drives serviced this year. New bottom paint"
Bottom paint is nowhere close to new!
Oil change I dont believe, because oil filters have 2019 date written on them.
Drives serviced??... I am doubtful
The pictures that he did post must have been from a season or 2 ago.
So yeah..
I told him everything that I found wrong... a little peeved that I was misled on the condition, and he said make him an offer...
So I'm thinking.
Well if I get more time... I'll try to remember everything I typed
Remove outdrives
Remove engines
Replace transom assemblies ($3k each)
Fix any other problems you find while you're in there
Reinstall and test
$6.5k parts, probably $2k labor
Here's why it matters. When a steering pin gets enough rust, the steering arm can't hold it. I had one let go in a turn at 30 mph. The starboard drive suddenly went hard to port, putting me in a tight turn with no bank angle. Darn near threw one of my passengers overboard.
If the owner thinks it can be adjusted, he's probably wrong. The surveyor will determine whether it needs the repair immediately or can get another year out of them.
Cheer up: After the repair, you'll have the luxury of a nice dry bilge for a few years.
Anodes crumbled at the touch.
Listing says new bottom paint (which it obviously wasnt)
"fresh oil change and drives serviced" oil filter was labeled with 2019 date.
So based on my observations, I need to do everything, because I cant trust that anything was done in the last 4 years of him owning it.
Boat looks to have been kept in the water,most of the time... prob pulled for winters. I could tell it wasnt used this year.
(And the pictures from the listing were old)
Outdrives look ok considering the lack of anodes. But 1 had a chunk taken out of the skeg.
So I would need new risers,
On fresh water closed cold 5.7s are the manifolds fresh water cooled?.. if not have to figure replacing those.
Batteries, impellors, flush out heat exchangers, anodes everywhere, new transoms, steering, bellows, fix skeg on outdrive, have the sanded and repainted.
1 hour on genny?..
Topside look good, but needs a professional detail to tr ry to bring back the blue hull. Seats are pretty good. Interior is good.
Outside icemaker looks to be taken aprat/broken I side. Refrids look good aside from needing to clean out the rusty beverage cans.
So yeah... at 8.5k just for the transoms, theres a great deal of time, work and money to get her back.
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
Here's one in New Hampshire listed by one of our members:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/303760249588
My boat needed a lot of work when I bought it last fall, but I bought it right and I had the work done over the winter while the boat sat indoors. My list of repairs/upgrades was extensive but none of it kept me off the water.
It was listed 55k I. The sume, then went to 52k in sept. The reduced to 45k mid oct.
I told seller the list of issues I saw (noting the steering issue, but not knowing the costs of new transom assemblies!)
And he responded by saying make him an offer...
It's not out, but alot more time and work than I was planning on.. so I am just thinking things thru. Cost of repairs and more importantly time.
I actually prefer boating fall, winter and spring. The summer sometimes gets too hot for me sometimes here in VA. (I'm orig from mass)
Some really nice forum member boats come up on here once in a while.
I would bet that the current owner hasn’t done any maintenance on that boat since he bought it in 2014. Other than reluctantly changing the oil last year cause his ‘marine guy’ told him to.
Genny ... if it's original and the hour meter says 1 hour, I'd consider it totalled. It will never perform reliably. They need regular exercise.
Don’t let the steering pins / transom assemblies scare you yet. If there just leaking and something is disconnected it’s ok for now. When I bought my boat last season (2008 330) it had both steering pins leaking slightly and they had some play also. The play was from the Clevis pin and steering rod. The holes on the steering rod were elongated and the clevis pins were worn. I replaced the pins and installed a new rod and that took away most of the play. I also replaced the bushings and spacers for the trim cylinders and that helped more. This was done for under $300.00. Both assemblies still leak slightly but they haven’t gotten worse. At the beginning of the season I packed thick grease into the pin area from the outside and that help greatly. If the gimbal ring is worn, that’s when it becomes an issue. There’s a square hole in the ring that a square part of the pin goes into, once that wears, then the ring and pin need to be replaced. There are two other methods that can be done instead of replacing the transom assemblies. A Mercruiser method where two holes are drilled in the ta assembly which allows you to remove and replace the pin and bushings. The other method is the JR method where you drill out a good portion of the ta assembly to remove the pin and bushings and install a cover plate. Both work well if you use an experienced shop. I used the mercruiser method on my 242 when I had it and I want to say it cost me under $1000 to have it done. If you really like the boat and everything else checks out this is an option that will keep you going till you want to replace the transom assemblies. As for the generator you might get lucky and have no issues. Mine had 80 hours on it and wouldn’t stay running with a load. I worked on it for a week or so and still had issues. Once I replaced the fuel injector it worked GREAT the whole season!