Removing drives, engines and transom assemblies.

Pat310

Looks like trim tab screws need some attention also. Would replace the the hardware with 316 stainless screws and lots of 4200. You don’t want the screws failing when your under way. Don’t ask how I know 😞

LaRea

Um, @Pat310 how do you know?!?

aero3113

It happened on my cousin’s SR 240 also....

Grahamu

@Handymans342, yes I ran out of time today, will take it out tomorrow and wait until I treat that area with epoxy. @aero3113, I had removed all the fasteners in that photo as I was going to remove the tab but it wasn't moving without some damage so I drilled out the holes and re-filled them with caulk and installed S/S screws.

reneechris14

When I 1st purchased my 342 the swimplatfrom supports where the same way, dry sealed up with 5200. 

Pat310

@LaRea , Lucky when it happened I was just getting up on plane.  The boat heeled over hard but was able to keep control and limp home. 

Grahamu

Were the fasteners sheared or pulled out?

earl1z19

It is a shame that Rinker didn't make it a standard practice to use a good sealant on the transom cutouts and anything that screwed into the transom. The cost per boat would have been almost nothing . In its place the decided that using nothing was the way to go.

Pat310

@Grahamu they all snapped. I tried to drill them out but ended up grinding them down, covering them with epoxy and shifting the tab outboard 1/4 inch. About half the screws on the other tab snapped off trying to remove them. Like @earl1z19said not a bit of sealant behind tab or on screws.

Handymans342

I think they only put 5200 in the screw holes. Probably why they snapped off. 

Pat310

@Handymans342 if you google crevice corrosion it has to do with lack of oxygen to form the protective layer on the stainless to protect them. The ones that came out of port tab showed signs of corrosion around the shank just below the head of the screws which is where all the ones on the starboard side snapped. If you look at first pic you can see the rust and corrosion where they snapped which is why I used 4200 as I will be changing them every 5 years as preventive maintenance 

Handymans342

Stainless screws should not rust

Grahamu

I did not see any corrosion but wasn't really looking for it. I will replace them with new and 1/4" longer.

raybo3

Handymans342 said:

Stainless screws should not rust

400 series will........... Just say'n

Pat310

From an article in boat US:
”The quality that causes it to be stainless (non-rusting) is its formation of a thin, tightly adhering surface layer of chrome oxide. If this surface is deprived of oxygen, the oxide layer breaks down and the stainless steel will rust just like plain steel. In other words, stainless steel is only stainless when it has access to oxygen. In a crevice where there is moisture depleted of oxygen, stainless steel rusts. The simplest prevention for this condition is to seal out the moisture or clean off any deposits.”

rasbury

That outer seal really sucks, what a bad design IMO. That is where mine was leaking...I really put much more sealant on it when I put it back together than I should have but I'm not touching it.  I was able to get a SS steering pin off ebay for like 75 bucks- I think the merc one was a couple of hundred?? I did all my bellows, bearing etc. but honestly have not had it in the water much with life as it is...I know it does not leak though!

J3ff

If I knew Rinker and the Bravo 3 was such a crappy design I would have never gone for this kind of boat. My previous experience was with bayliner and cruisers yachts... none of them had problems like this, but as is documented I had similar transom problems as you did. Had to pay someone to pull the engine and do the transom repair and USE sealent to put it all back together. 

I can't believe mercury can get away with such a huge design flaw as the steering pin. Mine will be up for sale in April. after spending 1000's and 1000's of dollars on it to get it to where it is today, (knocking on wood) it's been trouble free for a few months. However it appears that some other problem like this is just around the corner. I can't afford it. Going to put it up for a firesale price and just buy a jetboat. 

YYZRC

I agree with @J3ff - Bravo 3 sucks.

Grahamu

I agree that Mercury's design was flawed and they knew about it but did nothing. I think the Rinker design is fine, quality control on the assembly line was poor.

LaRea

I love my B3s.  Yes, the transoms have to be replaced every 10-15 years.  Yes, there's annual maintenance.  But they make my 10-ton, 40-foot boat cruise at 30 knots effortlessly and economically.  Over the long term, the cost of replacing transoms is only a few percent of my boating budget.

On the Rinker quality control:  there are brands with better build quality, but they aren't priced like Rinkers.  The shortcuts taken in production benefited Rinker customers by keeping prices low.  That's why I can afford to have a 40-foot boat.  I keep that in mind whenever I find quality issues.  

Handymans342

Dont hurt to have a mid 6 figure salary times 2 either

YYZRC

Volvo outdrives would perform just as well as Merc. As I understand it, at least Volvo acknowledged the composite drive issue. Merc still hasn’t changed the design of the steering pin and even still offers a non-stainless version. 

Agreed with @larea on Rinker quality vs price. I feel they are the least stylish boats of their era on the market but the price makes them the belle of the ball!

Grahamu

I'm now in a holding pattern waiting for the moisture levels in the transom to dry out to an acceptable level before re skinning it. The levels are slowly dropping after about 8 weeks in the shop. I have about another 6 weeks before I have to make decisions.
Here is a list of what I have been able to do so far.

Install new Icemaker

Install new digital TV antenna and 21" digital TV.

Scrap Factory Installed beige canvas and install new black canvas (removed while in shop)

Remove drives, engines, transom assemblies. Drain, pressure test, refill drives and install new Magnesium Anodes and wear plates. Rebuild Transom Assemblies with new S/S pins, seals and bearings . Service engines.

Remove and scrap all batteries.

Degrease and wash down engine compartment.

Install 2 new 12V cranking batteries, remove excess cabling.

Re-route port engine cables out of bilge.

Install 4 new 6V deep cycle batteries. Shorten cables and remove one cable to correct factory wiring.

Install new Battery Charger, ProNautic 1240P.

Install data cables and connect to VesselView modem. Install modem behind helm seat next to waste bin.

Replace panel lights with LED bulbs.

Check A/C unit, all good no corrosion, evaporator tray drain is clear.

Numerous small jobs.

Handymans342

That's a full time job!

LaRea

Definitely a good way to fill The Season That Shall Not Be Named.  

Grahamu

I'm retired but thankfully it gets me out of the condo as my wife has been working from home fulltime since March because of the pandemic and we are in lockdown. Fortunately boat repair in a marina is considered essential

randy56

That a long list, you will ride easy this summer.

Grahamu

Finally reached a stage where I can start the process of re-installing the drive train. The inside of transom has been glassed and painted. Will be installing transom assemblies on Thursday.
Before and after pics of the dried transom.

Handymans342

Nice

LaRea

On yours, the top of the cutout is nice and neat.  Both of mine look like they were hacked with an angle grinder on a Friday afternoon.