Removing drives, engines and transom assemblies.
EDIT on January 12, 2021, this job changed dramatically.
Hi everyone, I'm new on the site but have been reading a lot of the posts which have been very helpful. This will be a similar post to @Le Rea but felt it best to start a new thread. We purchased a 2006 342 in mid August this year. It is powered by twin Mercruiser 350 MPI/ Bravo 3 drives. Being in the boat repair business for many years I know how important it is to obtain a detailed hull survey before buying. The surveyor spent 4 hours going over the boat. A number of small issues, to me, were noted but he found high moisture readings in the engine compartment and engine bearers. However the soundings with a hammer were fine. I know that encapsulated marine ply can show high readings and yet a core sample is dry. I have a good idea the number of hours it would take to re & re drives and one engine and also to do and investigation into whether there are some leaks somewhere in the compartment or transom. The seller was aware of the moisture readings from his survey but chose to ignore it. My surveyor said that there are no structural problems now but may manifest in years down the road. We negotiated the price down and are now proud owners of a Rinker 342. We spent 3 days anchored out in Georgian Bay and the trucked the boat down to Port Credit. We then spent a few weeks cruising on and off on Lake Ontario and a small part of the Trent Canal. We made notes of various things that needed fixing and now we are inside the shop starting to deal with them and the major job. I think that is enough writing, I'm a one finger typist, and will start posting our findings and solutions. Probably won't be everyday as I only post on our home computer and my wife is now working from home fulltime thanks to Covid. Stay safe.
Comments
When I first saw this valve I thought great, that makes winterizing easy, Well after 15 mins of trying to suck antifreeze I took the valve stem out and found that it was backwards and not able to change it. I have now turned the valve upside down, next year should be a breeze.
There was very slight movement in the gimbal ring, it was recommended to slacken the nuts on the u bolt and retighten to the correct torque, see attached.
The SensaTank II monitor 2/3 light is not working for both tanks. Not sure if I want to buy the Level Guard kit which looks the same.
I am not a fan of breakers that cannot be turned off and I will be looking for a replacement.
Regards,
Ian
The Third “B”
Secretary, Ravena Coeymans Yacht Club
https://www.rcyachtclub.com/
Re LEDs I have checked Superbrightleds but also checking Canadian sources as shipping and duty can add to the cost. Is BA9S-WW-120-12vac the right bulb for the panel?