Jobs to consider if you remove your engine(s)
LaRea
Member, Moderator Posts: 7,555 mod
If your express cruiser has more than 10 seasons of use, and
you need to remove the engines for some reason, here's a list of jobs you might
consider while the engines are out.
[EDIT: This is not a must-do list. Many of these suggestions might be a complete waste of time and money depending on the boat and owner. Only an idiot would do everything on this list. 
]
This post consolidates two long build threads by me and @grahamu, along with dozens
of helpful comments from other forum members:
https://rinkerboats.vanillacommunities.com/discussion/11948/transom-assemblies-and-engine-room-makeover
https://rinkerboats.vanillacommunities.com/discussion/12130/removing-drives-engines-and-transom-assemblies
Obviously, check the transom assemblies for leaks. This forum has seen plenty of transoms that started leaking after 8-10
years, or even sooner. Leaks can cause major damage, and can lead to critical safety hazards.
Any job in the engine room is easier with the engines out. That's why some people take the chance to make
upgrades or do preventative maintenance.
Some boats only need a deep cleaning.
I chose to do a total renovation over the winter, complete with rearranging
equipment and rewiring almost everything.
One highly satisfying upgrade is painting the bilge. It's not expensive, it looks great, and it makes
the bilge easier to clean. I used white BilgeKote.
Another upgrade that several people liked is engine room lighting. If you have gas engines, you'll need ignition-protected
lights. See the threads above for details.
Tame your battery cables! Trace each cable
so you know exactly where it goes. Label
them, and make sure they are attached to the correct batteries. Sort out that rats-nest of wires and cables clustered
around your batteries. If your battery cables
are too long, cut them to the right length and attach new ring terminals.
I decided to relocate my water tank, water heater and batteries. Originally, the batteries were in the far back
corner, so maintenance was difficult. Now
all batteries are forward where I can reach them easily.
I ended up rewiring the entire engine room. Almost
every cable was removed and then rerouted and/or replaced. For example, the original battery cables were
lying in the bilge, which interfered with cleaning the bilge. Now they are secured along the transom where they
should be.
Listed below are some other jobs you might consider. Some are preventative maintenance, some are cosmetic,
and some are meant to simplify future repair work. It will never be easier than when the engines
are out.
Engine room:
Replace water heater
Replace house and starter batteries
Replace insulation on bulkhead and hatch cover
Replace inline fuses with circuit breaker panel or fuse block
Replace and reroute freshwater pipes
Remove any obsolete wiring from past upgrades
Replace access step with two folding steps
Repaint fire extinguisher and hatch lift motor
Install a vessel documentation placard
Re-bed transom fittings to cure rainwater leaks
Replace bilge pump and float switch
Replace blower hoses
Engines:
Touch-up paint on block and accessory brackets (I used POR gloss black)
Replace starter motors and alternators
Replace exhaust lower elbows, risers and manifolds (if corroded)
Replace exhaust lower and upper hoses and hose clamps (to prevent leaks)
Replace exhaust shutters
Replace raw water drain hoses (chafing damage)
Replace thermostats
Replace heat exchanger end gaskets
Replace heat exchanger bottom gaskets
Replace coolant
Generator:
Paint enclosure panels
Replace anode
Replace spark plugs
Replace coolant
Useful supplies that I purchased for this job:
Disposable towels (box of 300)
High-quality wire stripper and terminal crimper
Hydraulic crimper for battery cables
Assortment packs of:
- Heat-shrink crimp-on wire terminals
- Stainless steel screws
- Rubber-lined cable clamps
- Battery cable ring terminals
Engine stands
Canvas "portable garage" to store engines during renovation
These jobs will never be easier than when the engines are out!
Comments
I mean, did I really NEED to rewire the entire ER? No. Did I really NEED to relocate the batteries? No. I enjoyed doing all of this stuff, and it made my boat more reliable. The jury is still out on whether it was cost-effective. All I'm saying is, these are jobs to consider.
Fuses v. breakers -- I'm not saying breakers are better, and maybe you're right that fuses are safer. I used breakers as a way to tame the wiring mess. Maybe I could have achieved the same results with a fuse block instead of a breaker panel.
The real point is to get rid of inline fuses. I edited the list to say: replace inline fuses with circuit breaker panel or fuse block. Thanks @raybo3
Change oils in Genny and engine. Impeller in Genny. If blower is starting to squeal, replace. grease all fitting's , some have them on steering. Replace belt. Serpentine belts are built to last—much longer than before because of advancements in rubber technology. But I would replace at 10 years.
It all boils down to if you take care of your boat your boat will take care of you. It is of high maintenance. Most think if you own a boat, ya just hop in and go. Hahaha
Any screw that gets installed into anything wood cored in your bilge, seal it with 4200 and epoxy or 5200 over any old unused holes. Wood cores soak water like a sponge.