Started then died...

YYZRC

Grab a known to be good spark plug and pull each plug wire off and check for spark. This sounds like a coil/cap/rotor issue now. Do you still have the old cap/rotor?

earl1z19

I would try to use an alternate fuel source that you know is good like a red gas can from your lawnmower. Clean the rails again and connect the gas can to the cool fuel pump and see if it goes. Gotta start the process by eliminating potential problems. If your main take had that much water I would take that out of the equation 1st and go from there.

rasbury

Ugh...I was cranking, heard like an electrical crackle (?) I thought was in the starter..like it lost connection. Couple more cranks and everything is DEAD! Turn the key and nothing comes on. I checked the relay under the breather cover. I did just replace the two selonoids on the trim...will have to find how to test that selonoid. I putcmy hand on the starter figuring it would be hot, it's cool as a cucumber. 

YYZRC

Check the breaker at the top of the engine. 

rasbury

Yep, that was the relay up under the breather cover...how do I check that selonoid?

aero3113

Jump it with a screwdriver 

rasbury

I recall two posts with rubber boots- pull those off and cross those terminals? I'll do a little digging...

earl1z19

You should have a 90 amp fuse on the starter, if the relay is reset and still no power you probably have a bad fuse at the main incoming power at the starter solenoid

rasbury

Well @earl1z19 I had some success but not resolved.  I just went out to see if I could jump the selonoid...but figured I hit the key. When I turned the key everything powered up as normal and when I hit the starter it briskly turned over and it started, ran ruff a little smoothed out. There was no water coming out however and expected to hear the water pump impeller growling but did not. It died shortly after. All the electric went dead again. I tried to jump the selonoid got nothing...power was trying to come back up, things were making noises on and off...jumped the selonoid again and it started to turn over....so does power start at the starter and then go to this selonoid? Do I have one that is failing? Does not sound like any starter issues ?

YYZRC

Bad battery or alternator?

rasbury

Batteries are new and on the charger, turns over briskly- then everything dies and then comes back on...starter motor is not overheating ...

212rowboat

that solenoid is just what is suggests- it throws a gate and allows power past, and that gate is the main power.. 

speaking of the engine power alone- not peripheral items- the power leaves the battery and goes to the starter and is linked to the starter with a 90a fuse... if that fuse blows, no other fuse or connection matters as the power source has now been isolated.   the starter solenoid simply sends signal to the starter to allow the power to pass through... from there to the engine and harness... 

did you check your dead man switch and the shift interrupt as i suggested? 

212rowboat

to add: that 90a fuse rarely blows... i see it at the beginning of season on a tired starter that's sat up all winter and needs to be broken free, hence the demand for more than 90a, and on starters that keep being spun on an engine that won't start after they get really hot and demand more amperage... your start battery is capable of slapping a lot of amps past in a hurry... most can allow amps in the 900a range past for short durations... heating that wire, which happens shoving that kind of amps through it, increases it's resistance and increases the likelihood of blowing that big fuse... the 50a breaker on the engine is downwind of the starter.  

the solenoid are mechanical... they have a spring loaded gate that applying electricity to it either breaks free a magnetic open position by providing greater magnetic draw to close it, or enough magnetic draw to overcome the springs tension... point being, mechanical breaks far more often than solid state, but there are no solid state solenoids suitable for that use that i know of... if your solenoids are getting tired (and they rarely just up and fail, they usually have a long swan song) it may be time to swap them for new, or allow more time between attempts to start the engine... let things cool off. 

rasbury

Hey @212rowboat I did verify the dead man switch is in the correct position. Shift interrupt I did not know how to.
It did start per the above but the electrics did shut down, could not jump it and things just come back on. Try a new selonoid in order?

Pat310

Sounds to me like a loose connection. I would start with cleaning battery terminals and check if the cables on the battery switch have come loose

212rowboat

Pats on it.  Something isn't seated. 

The shift interrupt is on throttle linkage atop engine... there is a plastic piece with a button on it... as the linkage shifts (as one, as in throttle isn't separated from gear shift at the helm) during the sweep it momentarily depresses that button.  That literally and just briefly kills the engine so it falls into gear without grinding... those buttons can get grime on them and not want to release.  And when that happens, no engine runny... you can exercise it by hand after cleaning it up and most likely restore its function. 

PickleRick

There has to be a YouTube video on using an multi meter to check the interrupt switch function.   You don't need to have it running to test that it's only killing power while shifting.   

rasbury

Both great suggestions...more to learn...I need some fun boat time to pay off working my tail off on it boat bucks I've earned!

PickleRick

If you don't already have a multimeter I have both high end American industries and fluke but.. my favorite for 12v testing for everything g other than amps is a cheap 40 dollar eBay multi meter with thermometer, alligator clamps and probes.  

rasbury

I looked over the battery connections and that looked fine. I did replace the starter selonoid a I has it. Fired right but must have toasted the water impeller..ugh