I did just watch a random video yesterday and saw the pickup line get pulled out and there is a screen attached. I would recommend doing that cause of that's plugged it may be the cause as well.
Well, I'm working with a short part of the fuel line before the in line filter. I tried to blow in the hose ( why?):and could not. Can't imagine I would have thought there would be a problem if I reversed that..cause there was not. It is very free flowing. I have no access to open the tank to see what's up- from where I started to now is night and day. I guess most of the trash in your tank is from what you pump in at the pump? The boat has 300 hours on it or so, unfortunately that does not represent a lot of fuel going through the system...
Finally, all the fuel is out and the last spurts look clean. 70 frigging gallons of fuel...some of the fuel, most of it, 5 years old or older. Will start getting ready for launch- but I have to get a job sometime!
Well...in the meantime I burned up my starter which I just replaced in 100 degrees weather...my pool is so hot it is not comfortable nor refreshing. Boat would still not start.after cranking and stumbling I gave up. Maybe my new fuel filter got clogged up...one question..after all that cranking I took the cap off the pressure testing valve and depressed it and there was no fuel pressure- should there have been, does it hold pressure? I should have just turned the key and tested? I need to get it off the truck- it's on the trailer but really leans forward. Not sure how much fuel I have in it...
@PickleRick it should have held that pressure, or some fuel pressure, after I stopped cranking correct? I did not disconnect the fuel pump during all this but will check the connection..what else can I check to verify the fuel pump is at least trying to pressurize? I just checked the Guage while on the trailer and it was showing fuel and pegged empty when I turned it off. I guess I will order new filters and try that- if not this might just be beyond me to figure out...
Thanks- my trim tabs, I think, ignite when I turn the key...I need someone on the boat...I have a friend who suggested the fuel pump itself may have frozen up from sitting- but it was pumping out some fuel a couple months ago when I was checking the fuel...how am I checking for voltage? I can follow directions but understanding electrical us a challenge for me..thanks @PickleRick
A multimeter or test light. Since you can't be at the fuel pump and ignition switch at the same time you'll want alligator clips to put on your power source.
Thanks @PickleRick but you have to explain like I'm a 4 year old..what? I have a multi meter..pull the plug apart- does the hot wire stay hot or does it feed from the key until it's running? No clue about hooking to a power source to check- 350 mpi motor is what I have...also noticed my trim is not working either- how do I check that for power? I don't see any of the fuses / breakers on either panel poped...
If your trim tabs and fuel pump are not working I would be willing to bet you have tripped a breaker, propped a fuse or forgotten to hook something back up when you changed the battery and/or starter.
Double check fuses on motor, relay and wiring at batteries/starter. I'll try to take some pics of a fuel pump and where to attach the leads of the multimeter here in a few if I can find a fuel pump here at the house.
Thanks- the trim tabs are working, engine trim is not. I have checked my breakers- not aware of other fuses on the motor itself? Also need to test power on the trim- new selonoids and handle it the switch- was working fine a few weeks ago before all **** broke loose!
Update- trim is fine. On my battery set up (2) I have the normal neg and pos that go to the battery...another neg/ pos for the generator and then I have another neg/pos I never knew what it powered...it powers the trim and the neg was not on. So question on this- they are on bat one..so if bat one dies I'd have to move to 2? I think I recall at some point one lead went to bat one and the other to bat 2? Would that make it work no matter which bat was selected on the battery switch?
I do not have a generator set up(that isn't portable) so please post pics of your battery set up. With so many rinker 270 owners, current and past, with identical set up I'm pretty sure someone should be able to spot what you have wired wrong. You're lucky to have about the most common boat/engine found on this forum.
The entire boat electrical system should work on battery 1 or 2. There's no need for a backup battery if the boat is not functional when you hit the switch to the backup.
OK, update! I made it back to the boat. I hooked my line to the fuel rail and no fuel,,dropped the fuel water separator, no fuel. Then I'm staring at the fuel filter- did I put it on backwards? I am hearing the wirrrr on the pump when I turn the key. I know the filter is supposed to have an arrow on it for flow. The one I got was a seiera and it must have been painted over..one end is flat and the other rounded...is their a std for fuel flow based on that? I will drag it home this weekend and throw some more fuel in it...
1/4 tank. Not pulling fuel. I hear the one beep when I turn the key, after that the whir of the pump. When I turn the key off I hear the whir of my trim cylinders going up I believe. In other thread they mention another fuse block- mine are a relay. There is an oblong fuse block with 3 ten amps which look fine and two relays. Have no clue what they are for. I pulled the fuel filter line, there was fuel in the line but after cranking, no fuel in the fuel water separator. Replace the fuel pump?
I'd verify you're getting 12v to the pump before spending cash to replace but if you don't have that ability, it is a good guess.
Depending on fuel pick-up location and how level the boat is a 1/4 tank could be below pickup. My 235 held 65 gallons but on a level trailer it would only hold 45 due to how high the nose sat on the roller trailer. I hated that trailer.
There is fuel in the line, I have the bow cranked up- it's making noise so must be getting power, just not pulling fuel through. What exactly is the noise? I have a buddy I can take it to...might replace the pump prior...
Comments
Secondly you should likey hear it turn on to purge when the ignition switch is turned to the on position.
If it's not turning on use a multi meter to verify you're getting 12v when the ignition is turned on/cranking motor.
If no check the fuse.
Double check fuses on motor, relay and wiring at batteries/starter. I'll try to take some pics of a fuel pump and where to attach the leads of the multimeter here in a few if I can find a fuel pump here at the house.
The entire boat electrical system should work on battery 1 or 2. There's no need for a backup battery if the boat is not functional when you hit the switch to the backup.
How to test fuses with the multi meter
Now for your fuel pump
Depending on fuel pick-up location and how level the boat is a 1/4 tank could be below pickup. My 235 held 65 gallons but on a level trailer it would only hold 45 due to how high the nose sat on the roller trailer. I hated that trailer.