342 Bow Thruster

alex8q4

Hello All,

We have had our 342 for 4 boating seasons now.  We really like the boat as it’s clean, handles very well, is “reasonably economical” to operate, and it’s the right size for what we do.   

Each fall, like now, I find myself exploring bow thrusters.  It’s not because I can’t handle the boat without it, it’s more along the lines of I just want one.

I have seen several of the external thrusters and they don’t appeal to me.  If I’m going to do this I’ll go all the way and drill a big hole in the bow of my boat… or at least have someone do that part for me.  

From my fellow members, I would like to hear about what size / rating of thrusters you have on boats similar in size to the 342.  I would also like to see pictures of where and how the thruster is mounted on the 342 or similar.

I suspect that on the 342, the thruster would be installed behind the centre bank of drawers located at the foot of the bed.  I recall looking back there once, but don’t recall much about the area.

Thanks in advance for sharing.

YYZRC

OEM was a Lewmar unit. Here are some pics in a 330

https://rinkerboats.vanillacommunities.com/discussion/10626/rinker-330-340-2008-random-topics/p18

I installed the Sleipner SE50 in my 330 and 350. Very happy with it. Price was about $4500 CAD for the tunnel and thruster and switches plus $3500 for fiberglass work. Add about $800 for a charger and battery, switches, cables, etc. In both boats I saved a chunk of money by doing all the wiring myself. Marina just cut the hole and glassed in the tunnel. 

https://www.sleipnergroup.com/thruster-systems/thrusters/se50-tunnel-bow-thruster-12v


Both my 330 and 350 were pre-wired for the ac power to run the battery charger. Not sure if the 342 is - is there a "thruster charger" breaker?

YYZRC

Here’s the invoice from the 350. Sleipner seems to offer deals around this time of year. 

YYZRC

Three of my dock neighbours have external side shift thrusters. I agree with your approach based on the issues they have had. 

One guy had his sideshift ripped off in the big chute lock last season. He’s still fighting with insurance. 

One guy had the wiring from the thruster unit to the inside bow area corrode (after approx 8 years so not unreasonable) and had to haul out and remove the entire unit to repair. 

The third guy just did his sideshift install last season and he paid about $8000 CAD in total - not much less than I paid for a tunnel thruster. I’m confident that the resale value difference will more than make up for the extra I spent for a tunnel thruster vs a sideshift. 

alex8q4

Fantastic, you have given me a pile of information to chew on… I’ll be back once I’ve digested.  

PickleRick

You won't regret installing a bow truster.   It's almost like docking with a cheat mode enabled.  

Liberty44140

For sure, absolute game changer 

alex8q4

YYZRC,  I looked up the Sleipner and I like what I see.  They also appear to have good dealer coverage on GB, from Parry Sound south.  That said, they don’t provide online pricing so I priced out a Lewmar TT140 on the Marine Outfitters Site.  I assume the TT140 is what would have come in the 330, and it’s a step down from then the SE50 you installed.  

In the Pics of the Lewmar install, I see they only have 1 12V battery which surprised me.  That said, focusing on Lewmar, I couldn’t get a straight answer of amperage draw.  Further, I’m not sure how many minutes of use between charging cycles I should estimate.  Here’s the big question, what do you have for dedicated batteries?  And, if you have 2 batteries did you consider going with a 24V unit?  

If I proceed with this project, my biggest challenge will be to find a glass guy I trust within a reasonable distance.   I’m in the NE of GB, which as I’m sure you know is pretty much no man’s land.  I’m assuming would be travelling to Parry Sound or Little Current at a minimum to the get the tunnel installed.

Liberty44140

I have a Sleipner “side power” thruster in my boat which is tunneled, it was original install from cruisers in 2007. Absolutely love it and their service is awesome. After 15 yrs mine needed service last winter and upon servicing it (changing oil, anodes, etc) I realized that it was letting water in to the leg in the tunnel. Water in gear oil. Parts were super easy to find and it was very easy to talk with knowledgeable techs via phone and email when I had questions. The admiral and I replaced the whole leg with ease while on the hard. FYI the legs are now sealed, no oil changes on new legs.

You may want to call Florida Bow Thrusters. They work their way north throughout the winter. Last winter they were installing thrusters where I store for the winter here on Lake Erie, had just been on the east coast and were working their way in to Michigan. Perhaps they come your way?

YYZRC

I almost went with the Lewmar from MarineOutfitters. It was on sale for about $1000 less than the SE-50 but I was worried it was too small. For the boating I do (not much in the way of currents) it probably would have been fine. 

I run a single Optima Yellow Top 750cca. It is more than adequate for the job for me. Remember that you need to use a sealed battery under sleeping quarters to satisfy ABYC.

I can’t imagine the need to go 24v. I rarely use more than 10 seconds of thruster per docking. Since you have gone several seasons with no thruster, I imagine your usage would be similar. I really just use it when my slip neighbour is at the dock and the wind is unfavourable. 

As for the glass work, it really isn’t a big deal, especially if your boat is bottom painted. In my case, the 330 glass work was cheaper because it was bottom painted and matching the gelcoat wasn’t important. On the 350 I have no bottom paint so it was important to get a perfect match. 

If you are not in indoor heated storage, the smartest way to approach it might be to have the thruster installed mid-next season. I say that because the glass guys are seemingly super busy April to June. That’s how I handled the 330 and they hauled it for “free”. 

YYZRC

Liberty44140 said:

I have a Sleipner “side power” thruster in my boat which is tunneled, it was original install from cruisers in 2007. Absolutely love it and their service is awesome. After 15 yrs mine needed service last winter and upon servicing it (changing oil, anodes, etc) I realized that it was letting water in to the leg in the tunnel. Water in gear oil. Parts were super easy to find and it was very easy to talk with knowledgeable techs via phone and email when I had questions. The admiral and I replaced the whole leg with ease while on the hard. FYI the legs are now sealed, no oil changes on new legs.

My sealed leg sprung a leak last winter. Luckily, I noticed it while on the hard this past spring before she launched. They replaced the entire leg under warranty without too much hassle (though with a fair bit of back and forth) although they did try to get me to accept just a new seal. I refused. 

I only had one month left on the warranty at the time of the claim. I did the re and re myself. Not sure if they would have covered the labour to do it but I doubt it. 

YYZRC

Here are a few pics of the install in my 350. I have a Victron inverter/charger and lithium battery installed up front as well. If I could do it again, I would power the bow thruster with the lithium inverter battery. It would save having a separate thruster battery and a separate thruster battery charger. 

Liberty44140

Lucky timing for sure 

alex8q4

Today I priced out a Max-Power CT60 bow thruster from Binnacle Boat Supplies.  Compared to the Lewmar 185TT on sale at Marine Outfitters (lowest price I can find), the Max-Power setup is close to $1,500 less.  

From what I’m told this is a quality bow thruster, and I have not seen anything online to suggest otherwise.  Does anyone have experience with this brand?

alex8q4

Just waiting for warmer weather to get started on the install of my Max Power CT 80 bow thruster.  

Formulaben

Can't wait to see the install, @alex8q4.  Please post pictures!!   

alex8q4

I would like to install the bow thruster controller just below the VHF where the stereo remote is located.  I was thinking about finally removing the old plotter with the transformer logo on it, covering the plotter hole with a black plastic / pvc cover, and  mounting the stereo remote on the cover.

Does anyone have a recommendation of what to use to cover the hole where the old plotter is?

Also, if someone has a different solution for locating things, I’m all ears.

LaRea

Sounds like a good plan, if the thruster controller is short enough that it won't interfere with the VHF.  I'd use black Starboard marine lumber for the cover plate.  Affordable, easy to cut and drill.  For a plate that size, you could probably get away with 1/4" thick.  You can round the edges with a handheld router, or even a hand sander.  

YYZRC

My thruster controller was the same diameter as the radio remote so I eliminated the remote and swapped in the controller. My controller is low profile though so perhaps different from yours. 

The factory bow thruster controller location on the 330/350 was right above the ignition keys on the plastiwood panel. 

I’m really happy with the location of my controller. I dock on the port side (stern in) and I find the placement quite ergonomic. 

alex8q4

This is the controller I have.  It’s an about 3” tall and with the slope of the dash it will be well clear of the radio.  

I have read that the black starboard marks easily, but it is still on my list.  I agree it’s nice to work with.

@YYZRC I like where yours is mounted, unfortunately my shelf above the ignition is much smaller.   That said, I will consider putting it above the Garmin plotter.  When the old plotter is gone I should have plenty of room. 

Liberty44140

I have black starboard trim that I made to cover the openings when I replaced my stereo, VHF, and helm stereo control. Never had a marking issue. Not sure what these folks are doing to it to make marks?

LaRea

Starboard can get scratched.  But scratches usually aren't visible, especially with black.  

YYZRC

alex8q4 said:

I have read that the black starboard marks easily, but it is still on my list.  I agree it’s nice to work with.

I love starboard but not for the helm. Looks unfinished to me. It’s not expensive to have custom panels made up. I did 1/8” aluminum in my old Four Winns (powder coated) and 1/4” black acrylic for my Rinker (1/4” because it was supporting the screens). Cost for the Rinker was under $100. 

I did the CAD work myself but any good shop could do it from an accurate tracing. 

Liberty44140

Ok fair that starboard can scratch, but so can acrylic, PE, PP, PET, COPET or any other plastic that you'll consider for a dash panel. I've been using Starboard for 20 years all over sailboats and powerboats and never thought of it as a material more easily scratch's or mar'd than any other plastic. It's less likely to crack than a custom acrylic panel too. That said I'd agree a custom acrylic panel would be the nicest looking option, but I'd cover this with startboard for now as it sounds like he just wants to cover one hole, and down the line when you are ready for a little bit of a project do the entire helm with custom acrylic so the entire helm is fresh and updated.

If you have a router, starboard is easily routed to look more pro, but if not boatoutfitters can cut and route to your size very cheap.  

Formulaben

alex8q4 said:

Does anyone have a recommendation of what to use to cover the hole where the old plotter is?

Not sure if your holes are too wide, but if not I just installed a wireless cell phone charger that fit my similar situation perfectly and covered the old holes.  Looks great too.  

Pat310

The good thing about the acrylic is if it got scratched you can vinyl wrap it afterwards. Ive read that starboard will not take wrap very well. And you can change the look as trends change

Liberty44140

that definitely does make sense Pat

davidbrooks

When i had my 342 i removed the original MFD from that location as well.  Initially i just had a thin layer of HPDE maybe 3/8 in thick.  It served its purpose till i removed the whole dash and filled it in and painted it.  My plan was to move the radio remote over to that location but to be honest i like where yours is better.  One thing to consider is how often you are using a control.  I wanted to be able to quickly and easily hit the mute button if i needed to.  So having the stereo remote by my right side just makes more sense.  You can also find laminated plastic panels cheap on Amazon.  I ended up using one that matched the wood grain on my steering wheel.  

alex8q4

I agree that Starboard is by no means fragile.  The comment I saw was from someone at boat outfitters who was talking about how he preferred to build dash panels out of acrylic. 

Shortly after reading the first few responses I hopped on Amazon and ordered these 2 sheets of black acrylic sheets for $30 CAD.  I figure I have little to lose experimenting with it.

 

YYZRC

@alex8q4 how did you make out?

alex8q4

The bow thruster project is officially complete!

I had originally ordered the Maxpower CT 80 which turned out to be far too big for the space I had available.  I suppose I got ahead of myself this winter, but hey there was no snow to enjoy and I was going stir crazy.   Anyway, I returned the CT 80 for the CT 45 which turned out to be a great fit. 

The thruster is installed below the cabinet which is under the forward brith.  All of the electrical work fit under there as well and is easily accessible via the hinged vent located under the face of the cabinet.  I am certain this was where Rinker had intended for the installation of these components.

I used a Victron Orion DC/DC charger to charge the 100 ah AGM battery, and I installed a blue seas 500 amp remote battery switch to control the power to the thruster.  The remote switch is located next to the Thruster Controller on the dash.   

I fitted the controller where the stereo remote was previously located, and I relocated the stereo remote to the location the original Lawrence plotter was once located.  I was really happy with the acrylic sheets, and how easy they were to work with. 

All of the glass work and finishing work was done using Westsystems Epoxy and a variety of fillers and glass fabrics.  This was a great brand to work with as they provide a ton of information and really make the process easy.

All in all the project was a big one, but not overwhelming.  I learned a lot and that is what makes these types of projects fun for me.

I’ll post pictures in another post