Boat only receives ~70 volts on shore power

Spyderweb

Went up to boat yesterday to begin annual buffing (boat on land).  Hooked up shore power to port side receptacle.  After figuring out all the right switches to set (it’s a long time between boating seasons in northern NY) the gauge on the electric panel finally showed power, but only getting about 70 volts.  Double checked connections but found no obvious problems.  Thought it might be marina’s problem.

Switched my connection to starboard side and got full 120 volts.  98% of time I use starboard, but I did use port a couple times last year, and I know it worked fine.  Don’t ever recall anyone having a problem like this.  Any ideas?

LaRea

Does the port side have a cutoff switch inside the cockpit?  Pull that enclosure out and check the connectors on the back.  It might be the dreaded PowerPole connector issue.  Look for signs of melting or discoloration.  If you can't easily unplug the connectors, they are probably damaged.  

Spyderweb

Yes, port side has the cutoff switch.  If bad, is it a simple matter of replacing the plugs?

LaRea

I hardwired mine (eliminated the connectors).  Connectors save a few minutes at the factory on the assembly line, but they aren't needed for normal use.  

https://rinkerboats.vanillacommunities.com/discussion/13379/hazard-warning-anderson-powerpole-connectors-in-shore-power-wiring

Spyderweb

I think I like hardwire too.  Hope to check this out next couple of times up.  Lots of rain in forecast over next 2 weeks.  Not good for buffing. Thanks.

rmrstlmo

I had the same low voltage issue on my 340 and it was the powerpole connector.

Spyderweb

Back to boat yesterday to continue buffing.  Took some time out to check the connectors.  This is absolutely as far out as I could get it.  I was thinking I had to pull each of the individual wires out from the right end of the plug (not seen). In looking at it now, is it really the white half pulls apart from the clear half?  It was end of the day, I was exhausted, and I wasn't thinking so clear at the time.

Anyway, was disappointed I couldn't get any further and put it all back together.  Just because I did a lot of wiggling of it to get it that far out, I decided to plug shorepower back in and check results.  Voila!  I'm back to 120 volts.  Will leave it alone for now.

Liberty44140

Glad it is back to 120v. I honestly would not sweat this until the boat is in the water and plugged in to 30a service in the dock with a good, newer cord. 

LaRea

Huh ... those are Molex connectors, not PowerPole connectors!  I haven't seen those on a Rinker before, but you are right:  the clear half should pull away from the white half.  

When an electrical problem disappears after you move the wires, that's a danger sign -- especially with high-voltage wiring.  I'd pull those connectors apart for a close inspection.  Before you disconnect them, see if they feel warm.  

If it was me, I'd stop using that circuit until I found the problem.  

Dream_Inn

I agree completely with LaRea.  It is a huge fire risk waiting to happen.  There is something that is not right in there.

YYZRC

LaRea said:

Huh ... those are Molex connectors, not PowerPole connectors!  I haven't seen those on a Rinker before, but you are right:  the clear half should pull away from the white half.  

When an electrical problem disappears after you move the wires, that's a danger sign -- especially with high-voltage wiring.  I'd pull those connectors apart for a close inspection.  Before you disconnect them, see if they feel warm.  

If it was me, I'd stop using that circuit until I found the problem.  

Agree 100% with @LaRea - there's a bad connection somewhere that is prone to arcing.

@Spyderweb to separate those Molex connectors you simultaneously press the middle clear plastic tab on both sides and wiggle side to side while pulling apart. They are very stiff.

If you get in your bilge and look up into that side of the gunwale area, you will likely be able to cut a zip tie to release more wire. The 330/340 and 350/360 use the same wiring harness so there is lots of extra wire to allow for different hull lengths/configurations.

Separately, I think the only place I've found a PowerPole connector on the 330 or 350 was at the water heater. Everything else are these Molex connectors.

Spyderweb

Fortunately, the way I have to dock at my marina, I never have to use the port side.  Also, the comment "... haven't seen those on a Rinker..." got me thinking.  The caps over the shore power inlets are different each side of the boat.  Starboard has cap that requires several rotations to screw on/off.  The port side requires only about a quarter turn to fasten.  I'm guessing port side receptacles have been replaced by PO.

My next step was to go into bilge and look for options to lengthen wire, just didn't't have time to dig deeper.  Will look further once launched.  

If it won't unplug, is hard wiring still best option?

LaRea

Yes, if it won't unplug it's likely melted.  Hardwire it with heatshrink butt connectors and a good ratcheting crimper.  If you take apart the connector bodies, it'll give you a little extra wire to make crimping easier.  

Quarter-turn receptacles are a relatively recent thing ... yeah, probably replaced by PO.

@YYZRC - what year would you guess Rinker started using Molex connectors?  

YYZRC

I think there will be enough slack in the AC wiring to remove the Molex connectors and wire directly to the breaker using 10ga fork connectors. Less work and a better end result than the butt connectors.

@LaRea both my Rinkers were 2008 models so I couldn't say for sure but my guess would be that they deployed the Molex with the last "new" generation of express cruisers which would start with the 2007 350EC followed by the 2008 330EC.

Spyderweb

@YYZRC aren’t fork connectors used to attach to buss bars?

YYZRC

My boat has fork connectors at all outlets and fork or ring connectors at the breakers.

https://www.greatlakesskipper.com/rinker-boat-shore-power-harness-2230215-breaker-10-awg-30a

The link above is probably the exact setup we have in our boats.

Spyderweb

That does look like the exact setup.  So you would cut out the molex connector, attach ring or fork terminals to the wires, but where is the thing they connect to?

YYZRC

If there is ample wire, I would cut off the Molex and attach the ring/fork connectors directly to the breakers. 

Spyderweb

Do the breakers pull out of the front of that metal box in my picture?  Thus giving you access to their back where the screws are to accept the forks?

YYZRC

Yes, exactly.

Spyderweb

Once I'm launched and at dock and I have more time, I'll look more deeply into this.  Thanks for everyone's help.

Spyderweb

Finally followed up on this electrical issue.  @YYZRC you were correct,  I cut the zip tie and there was adequate wiring to pull the assembly out.  Pulled the Molex connectors apart.  Absolutely no sign of overheating, discoloration, corrosion...Put back together and got full 120 volts from both inlets.  As stated above, rarely use this side for shore power.  When I do, will continue to check meter to insure I'm getting full 120 volts.

YYZRC

Spyderweb said:

Finally followed up on this electrical issue.  @YYZRC you were correct

I can’t wait to show this to the Admiral!

LaRea

Agree, those connectors have not been overheated!  I hate electrical problems that can't be reproduced.

Spyderweb

@YYZRC. LOL!

Ian

I would have intermittent no volts for no reason. Connectors looked fine but to me not good enough as main lines. Replaced with 3 pin lockable 50A connectors and no issue since.