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what about this boat?
rasbury
Member Posts: 8,238 ✭✭✭✭✭
I found a boat out in tx, 2004 with 415 hours on it. I'm trying to get more info on it and the owner is a little vague- I don't think he is hiding anything per say but rather sounds like he does know a lot about the technical end of the boat. With this many hours, what specific service questions do I need to ask him? Bellows replacement common by this time/hours? He said all service is up to date. It's in an area of Tx that the reservoir is going dry so he wants out of the boat...looking at the map there really is no other water around for a big boat like this. Pictures look good and it might be worth a trip out there to look at it...and a fresh water boat which really excites me. What do you think?
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largo one I have not looked at but it did not have a trailer, but, I don't really know what it could be bought for... it was 35 I think.....this one has a trailer and is asking 28500...http://www.boattrader.com/listing/2004-Rinker-270-Fiesta-Vee-372341
I would think if I showed up with 25 grand in hand I could drive home with this one....thanks for the input! He has a "guy" that works on all his stuff so I can not get a detailed service history. What is the replacement cycle on the bellows? Risers? The Gen has 130 hours on it.
Risers and manifolds every 4-5yrs in saltwater, longer in fresh water no doubt. Ask the surveyor if he has a moisture meter and checks for water logged hulls and stringers(a must). Run that genset at least 45mins either at the dock or wherever it's safe. Operate all the seacocks.
(SURVEYOR LINK TIPS)
Ask the seller for dozens of better pics of the engine and outdrive (from every conceivable angle and even under the engine) along with PDFs of the maintenance work records. Look for signs of rotten wood and water/structural damage.
A handheld IR heat gun is a must for checking on hot spots. Not just on the boat but especially axles and tires when you're driving it to the seatrial. How old are the tires (life span is only 4-5yrs. ck for the mfg seal) and don't depend on honesty about the brakes and bearings for a pull like that. Pull the hubs and re-pack them and double check the brakes and fluid for rust & mung. By the way, that boat is an oversized load requiring permits in most states.
Make sure your deposit is held by a reputable 3rd party before driving all that way and that your offer is contingent upon absolute proof of a clear title, survey and seatrial. Don't get emotionally attached.
Good luck, Mike
I agree with Tiki, get any info you can before going out there, including more and fresh pictures. That age of boat, bellows definitely should be changed. Risers/manifolds can depend on a number of things, but they at least should've been pulled apart and looked at sometime over the last few years. Maintenace records are a good thing as well. Things like oil changes (engine & outdrive) for every year, impellers every other year, plugs should've been done. The number of hours is reasonable. If the generator has low hours, that may be issues.
Don't get so hung up on salt vs fresh water. It really doesn't mean a lot if taken care of. If you see any in the MD area, let me know. We have a ton of Rinkers around this part.
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
He did spot a few things I missed but overall it was a very easy survey with the boat having been well maintained and documented, initially sitting in a rack at ground level and the fork lift standing by to launch. All the records of work done were readily available and the mechanic was on-site in the yard at Burnt Store marina, who I also talked to prior to the offer. There was no trailer in our deal and it went for $30k at 7y/o with a brand new fuel tank (yike$$), brand new risers and headers, genset service and impeller, seawater impeller, OD removed and serviced w/new bellows. All that happened because the fuel tank removal necesitated removing the engine/OD and genset so the mech went all the way through it while it was out. Glad it wasn't my bill.
I can't remember what the prior owner had paid for a bellows update for a single B3 but It's probably $600-900 all up.
If you search in Fl/GA/Al I'm sure you'll find your boat w/o trailering 1000mi.......Did I mention that you should call on the boat in Largo if it's still up there?? You never know what they'll take until you try. If you find a fairly local 270 (within say 200mi. NOT TX) w/o a trailer you'd be welcome to borrow ours for a few days to go get it... I might even lend a hand if I'm available. Just sayin'. Mike
PC BYC, Holland, MI
PC BYC, Holland, MI
PC BYC, Holland, MI
Not sure of the relation unless that means they don't use them. I move mine routinely and have had boats on lifts for 8 years now. Our marina has over a hundred boats on a lift and , well, I've worked on a bunch of them. Never heard of seacock issues (well, I did see my first one on a buddies boat last week, but he just bought it last year and started lifting it)
Back to topic, keep us updated Ras & good luck!
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
That's a great link that BD posted for tweaking leaky fittings. Filled with great techniques. It's the same guy who I got my hull/gelcoat restoration system from. He's the definition of OCD and thankfully does a great photo journal on boat maintenance issues for us visual learners.
As for the new boat, do your best and try not to get crazy but follow the basics of prudent boat shopping and you'll be ok. Above all know that you won't ever find a PERFECT used boat if cost is an issue. Just know what your limits are and don't be too enamored to walk away. Distance would be a big limiter for me for many reasons. Good luck, Mike
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
if you have an incident while transporting the rig to your home area, the bond will cover the value of the boat so long as it was on that trip and during the specified dates the bond has value. it is dang hard to question, but if you're relying on insurance and annual policies to cover the transport, there will be questions galore..
a bond, for instance, would cover catastrophic loss of property with little resistance, if any, where as insurance would cover a road debris bouncing up and taking a slice out of gel coat. Insurance wouldn't be too happy if there was 100% loss of property and only 1/4 or less of the policy paid for the year- they'd without doubt look for escape.. a bond, they've already got every penny and they are playing the odds nothing will happen.
I'd bond it for the value of the rig+trailer, and $100k in property damages, while relying on car insurance to cover the remainder of loss of property if there is any... I'd make sure the bond covers anything from damages resulting in loss of, say, 20% to 100%.
you may find that a transport bond is just as cheap as the 'trailering' addition to your annual policy- but one that doesn't give nooks and crannies for an adjuster or attorney to hide out in..
edited to add: something like this
or, like THIS one
just look around.. it'll likely cost you nearing a benji, but be well worth the cost if something happens.
I'm a little confused on how these brakes work...surge brakes vs electric/hydraluic: If the brakes work when the the vehicle brakes engage causing the trailer to move forward and compress the cylinder to activate the trailer brake, what happens when you back down a ramp? Boat and trailer weighing more than the truck, seems like the whole rig would end up in the water if you can't activate the brakes! Likewise, if your backing up a driveway or incline, would not the weight of the boat cause the brakes to engage since all the weight would be moving forward? Electic/hydraulic would seem to be the way to go but I don't think the boat I am working on has that, just surge....someone un confuse me please!
electric brake controllers have an "OH SH!T" switch... familiarize yourself with it's location.. you set the load by getting your load rolling at no more than 15 or so MPH, reach up and grab the switch to it's first setting, which is applying the brakes as they will on the road- you will want the trailer to be able to slow you down all by itself, but NOT lock up.. a gradual slow, in other words, and by the trailers brakes all by themselves.. This ensures the brakes are set sufficiently for the weight of boat, which makes the trailers brakes almost independently responsible for the boat.. almost.. if done correctly, whilst driving and braking, the trailer will apply brakes to about the 80% threshold before tires locking up.. your truck will handle the rest easily.
the OH SH!T switch- when pushed past the 'settings' setting, and full on to the stop, will lock the brakes up.. in a situation where you have to slam on the brakes, you are to grab and slam that O-S button/switch to lock up the trailer.
I despise surge brakes.. they will beat the crap out of your tow rig..
Yep, did a little of the google and learned about a lock out pin or otherwise locking up the trailer from applying the brakes when reversing. When you park the trailer, say on a little incline of a driveway, can you somehow activate the brake? I know it needs to be chalked also, but brakes locked would be a nice assist. Would for sure prefer the electric/Hyd..suppose most that own these larger cruizers do not trailer much and these are cheaper and will get the job done.
Thanks all for the input.....see this line? _______________ my head is under that somewhere as I'm way overhead!
I always chock the wheels... always.. I grew up in the mountains, and parked uphill from a friends sisters car when I was 16.. We returned and found my truck on top of her car, presumably, attempting to make little cars.. My brakes (parking) gave.. her car did too.. that cost me a summer of income to fix.
Also, as a kid, I backed under a trailer that had been sitting for sometime, and the brakes were locked.. I spent almost the rest of the day trying to un-seize them.. they were drums.. even under heat, hammer, tons of liquid wrench (which I later had to de-contaminate the drums of), it took flat out work to get those things off....
chocks are cheap- but they are worth their weight in gold.