I don't see a couple tenths of fluctuations on my gps. I don't think those type of gauges measure fast enough to capture what's happening here. As I spent more time learning the software I started realizing something didn't look right. I'm going to do full testing tomorrow.
Let me put another theory out there. My first idea was mechanical fuel restriction which is simple and unlikely, and probably wrong.This theory is complicated and unlikely, but we can all agree we are looking for an unlikely cause. Your firing order has changed from 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 to 1-3-5-7 and then 8-4-6-2. This would explain:- Odd colored plugs Odd noise Laboring engine Reduced RPM
It would not, however explain your strange fuel rail pressure drop.
What I am saying is the engine is effectively going into guardian mode and not telling you. This would require at least two subtle faults. In guardian mode the ECU ( I think) inhibits injection on odd numbered cylinders for one cycle and then even numbered cylinders for another cycle.The reason I have asked you to use a "colortune" plug in previous posts is so that you could see the missed combustion. You would get - induction - compression - spark only - exhaust and then - induction - compression - power - exhaust. Engines do not lie to you, scanning tools often do. Does this make sense to anyone? Am I talking through my hat?
@dalek Do you know if i need a 10,12 or 14mm? This color tune is pretty cool. Not sure it is going to help me but Im so exhausted on this I'm willing to try
@dalek Do you know if i need a 10,12 or 14mm? This color tune is pretty cool. Not sure it is going to help me but Im so exhausted on this I'm willing to try
Chin up, I suspect you will soon have your answers. If it's any consolation, your engine problem is vexing me also. 14 mm, offer it up to a plug to be double sure.
Are you pulling that engine to send to Al this off-season?
That did not pan out as the shop that was supposed to pull the boat and stash along the wall so we could have it waxed while I was deciding what to do buried it in their indoor building. I raised **** but they were like well, what do you want us to do? It was a mistake and we can't pull all these boats out of there. So she sits awaiting her spring awakening.
I really think you're going to ultimately find your timing chain isnt indexed right, and the computer can compensate to a point but not beyond.
Both fuel sync and ignition timing is dependent on that mechanical alignment. One tooth advanced or retarded, or even a nylon liner thingy breaking free and causing slop could do it. That is one reason why I like gear driven timing or doubles, and always stay away from 'silent' chains with those stupid nylon/plastic liners between the links that cause slop as they wear... A combo of wear and indexed off one tooth could easily be your issue, again the computer compensating to a point but not beyond.
Well said @212rowboat.....and of course if a loose timing chain jumps a link - kiss your valves (and more) good bye!
There is some tolerance - 3 or 4 teeth, or I would imagine a complete 90° on the cam, and the valves could survive.
On most production interference engines there's only a few degrees near TDC where the piston will impact the valves, and the valves aren't opened within a few degrees of TDC becuase it would lose efficiency.
With the cam 90/180° out of sync I imagine the engine would run (although the firing order and ignition timing would be slightly off, so 1 is 6, etc.). On a V-8 I've run with the distributor 180° out - idled fine, but wouldn't rev past 65% throttle in neutral, and under load it was smooth but weak. I never thought that it was the distributor because the engine ran so smooth.
I think we're all looking forward to the diagnosis.
@Dude_Himself....semi agree but imo very much depends on load, speed and engine. I have seen a link or two jump wreck an engine.....but - best not to test the theory and address the issue.
Just another thought. After dropping to 20P 4xblades on my B-3’s, the drop in engine sound is remarkable. Originally had 24P, then 22P. Certainy helped, at the 24P I had the exact problem. With the 20P now I have great engine/boat response thru the whole throttle range, never had that before. Just maybe the engine is out of power under the loads? Just saying I chased this ghost. Redid all the fuel lines, replaced the MAP sensors, PCV valves, (full plugs/cap/rotor/wires made no changes). Runs like it should now! Albiet 14 years later. lol
you gotta figure if fuel pressure isn't falling, injectors are actuating (properly), air isn't obstructed (also evidenced and related to fuel via valve events), cylinders aren't weak in compression (which could also be evidenced by bad valve timing/seats/weak springs/sticky lifter/miscalculated pushrod length, ect) and all of it is properly aligned (cam/crank relationship), and spark is being applied properly and in sync, it leaves only one and one only thing: demon possession.
i bet Al already deduced this, and why he didn't take it in for recovery...
the dang thing is possessed.
y'all don't think it got into @wildboating too, do you?
Well, it must be that time of the season. It is 5am and I can’t sleep because once again i lay in bed going through what could I have missed. Unfortunately no new updates, including the shop I dropped boat off to early fall to attempt repairs. They have not even tried.
Which one of you boys is interested in an all expense paid trip to beautiful Cleveland, OH! Home of the Rock and Roll hall of fame, Pro Football hall of fame and a very short drive to the award winning Cedar Point amusement park.
Seriously, how can I check for the correct indexing? Remember, the engine keeps telling us something is wrong. Port motor plugs are lite grey/tan as I would expect and starboard they are orange.
Oh and 22 is my lucky number, a few more post and maybe this demon spell will be broken on page 22..... Let’s go boys, start posting “how to verify strategies”
the only way i know how to validate clocking is to pull the timing cover, the valve covers, plug from cylinder #1, and the dizzy cap. there are other ways to 'maybe' do it, but the only way i know how to do it for certain is watching the rockers, the orientation of the rotor button, and the dots on the timing sprocket. it all starts with finding TDC #1 and referencing the others to it.
have you made absolute certain your lifter rods are uniform length and same as port engine's? the cam's profile is one thing.... the rockers ratio is another... but the lifter rods play a vital role too- lift/duration is directly impacted by them- not lifting high enough or open too short a time- the flow of air and the injection is impacted not only by volume of flow but also the velocity of flow- and you realize you'll really know the difference up high in the curve... right where you're seeing it.
then there is the lifters themselves. which ones were used? softer springs or smaller passages also makes for variations in lift/duration. likewise, firmer springs with less cushion cause higher lift/duration- creating a more air than catalyst (fuel) issue, and burning lean... a touch lean, depending on the fuel used and it's additive pack (especially if MMT is in it for rand boost) will absolutely turn plugs orange near stoich ratio's... this could absolutely be your issue. you actually don't want stioch, not in a marine engine... you want to run a bit fat- 13.5:1 or so as opposed to 14.7:1 A/F.
then, valve lash- but i think we covered that before- messy job but easy.
now the plus won't lie. we established that. reading plugs is a lost art. orange means something, though. most often it means you've been running racing fuel that is considered racing fuel by virtue of rand (octane) rating alone- and achieved by treating lesser quality fuel with additives- additives containing MMT. it's notorious for it. you'll also get orange'ish plugs, though, when running lean.
you've been through your fuel systems and it seems okay, right? so.. you're getting fuel. if this holds true and your plugs aren't orange because of additives, that leaves lean. that means unmetered air if you know your fuel delivery system is g2g.... and we're back, now, to something happening high in the range that allows the engine to fall flat on it's face after a curve. there is no vacuum leak as i recall, which makes the issue sound as if it's absolutely valve train/event caused..... and of the possibilities of this, the most likely is indexed incorrectly, followed by ratio of rockers incorrect for head/chamber configuration, which is on an even plain with incorrect length of push rods, which is followed by mismatched (compared to port) lifters.... and then yet another issue that could be causing this which sounds absolutely nuts but should be said: oil available in the valley to charge the lifters... this is to say the lifters are correct, the push rods are correct, the rocker ratio is correct, but the oil pump volume of flow/pressure of flow is too little or too much.
you want oil available in the valley at all times... not just 'chilling out' in the sump... not so much that the sump runs dry and starves the pump, but not so little that the lifters lose charge when they're gettin' it purging and replacing oil in cycles that last microseconds.
of all the things you've done, and if those things were checked correctly, i'd be really surprised if one of the above isn't your huckleberry.
Thanks Drew for the detailed write up, i will go through this in detail to the best of my ability.. Did i ever tell you guys that i discovered from stop the problem motor loads up and has no power. What im saying is port motor by itself moves the boat, starboard will not. Im now convinced that the starboard does not really produce power at any rpm level.
So. You have some very knowledgeable people offering insightful suggestions...this boat did run right at some point? What could have changed from when it did until when it didn't?
Comments
Let me put another theory out there. My first idea was mechanical fuel restriction which is simple and unlikely, and probably wrong.This theory is complicated and unlikely, but we can all agree we are looking for an unlikely cause.
Your firing order has changed from 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 to 1-3-5-7 and then 8-4-6-2.
This would explain:-
Odd colored plugs
Odd noise
Laboring engine
Reduced RPM
It would not, however explain your strange fuel rail pressure drop.
What I am saying is the engine is effectively going into guardian mode and not telling you. This would require at least two subtle faults. In guardian mode the ECU ( I think) inhibits injection on odd numbered cylinders for one cycle and then even numbered cylinders for another cycle.The reason I have asked you to use a "colortune" plug in previous posts is so that you could see the missed combustion. You would get - induction - compression - spark only - exhaust and then - induction - compression - power - exhaust.
Engines do not lie to you, scanning tools often do.
Does this make sense to anyone?
Am I talking through my hat?
Do you know if i need a 10,12 or 14mm? This color tune is pretty cool. Not sure it is going to help me but Im so exhausted on this I'm willing to try
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
14 mm, offer it up to a plug to be double sure.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
Both fuel sync and ignition timing is dependent on that mechanical alignment. One tooth advanced or retarded, or even a nylon liner thingy breaking free and causing slop could do it. That is one reason why I like gear driven timing or doubles, and always stay away from 'silent' chains with those stupid nylon/plastic liners between the links that cause slop as they wear... A combo of wear and indexed off one tooth could easily be your issue, again the computer compensating to a point but not beyond.
On most production interference engines there's only a few degrees near TDC where the piston will impact the valves, and the valves aren't opened within a few degrees of TDC becuase it would lose efficiency.
With the cam 90/180° out of sync I imagine the engine would run (although the firing order and ignition timing would be slightly off, so 1 is 6, etc.). On a V-8 I've run with the distributor 180° out - idled fine, but wouldn't rev past 65% throttle in neutral, and under load it was smooth but weak. I never thought that it was the distributor because the engine ran so smooth.
I think we're all looking forward to the diagnosis.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
as someone said "gauges lie, engines don't".
you gotta figure if fuel pressure isn't falling, injectors are actuating (properly), air isn't obstructed (also evidenced and related to fuel via valve events), cylinders aren't weak in compression (which could also be evidenced by bad valve timing/seats/weak springs/sticky lifter/miscalculated pushrod length, ect) and all of it is properly aligned (cam/crank relationship), and spark is being applied properly and in sync, it leaves only one and one only thing: demon possession.
i bet Al already deduced this, and why he didn't take it in for recovery...
the dang thing is possessed.
y'all don't think it got into @wildboating too, do you?
Number of comments 666.
@Wildboating come back!
have you made absolute certain your lifter rods are uniform length and same as port engine's? the cam's profile is one thing.... the rockers ratio is another... but the lifter rods play a vital role too- lift/duration is directly impacted by them- not lifting high enough or open too short a time- the flow of air and the injection is impacted not only by volume of flow but also the velocity of flow- and you realize you'll really know the difference up high in the curve... right where you're seeing it.
then there is the lifters themselves. which ones were used? softer springs or smaller passages also makes for variations in lift/duration. likewise, firmer springs with less cushion cause higher lift/duration- creating a more air than catalyst (fuel) issue, and burning lean... a touch lean, depending on the fuel used and it's additive pack (especially if MMT is in it for rand boost) will absolutely turn plugs orange near stoich ratio's... this could absolutely be your issue. you actually don't want stioch, not in a marine engine... you want to run a bit fat- 13.5:1 or so as opposed to 14.7:1 A/F.
then, valve lash- but i think we covered that before- messy job but easy.
now the plus won't lie. we established that. reading plugs is a lost art. orange means something, though. most often it means you've been running racing fuel that is considered racing fuel by virtue of rand (octane) rating alone- and achieved by treating lesser quality fuel with additives- additives containing MMT. it's notorious for it. you'll also get orange'ish plugs, though, when running lean.
you've been through your fuel systems and it seems okay, right? so.. you're getting fuel. if this holds true and your plugs aren't orange because of additives, that leaves lean. that means unmetered air if you know your fuel delivery system is g2g.... and we're back, now, to something happening high in the range that allows the engine to fall flat on it's face after a curve. there is no vacuum leak as i recall, which makes the issue sound as if it's absolutely valve train/event caused..... and of the possibilities of this, the most likely is indexed incorrectly, followed by ratio of rockers incorrect for head/chamber configuration, which is on an even plain with incorrect length of push rods, which is followed by mismatched (compared to port) lifters.... and then yet another issue that could be causing this which sounds absolutely nuts but should be said: oil available in the valley to charge the lifters... this is to say the lifters are correct, the push rods are correct, the rocker ratio is correct, but the oil pump volume of flow/pressure of flow is too little or too much.
you want oil available in the valley at all times... not just 'chilling out' in the sump... not so much that the sump runs dry and starves the pump, but not so little that the lifters lose charge when they're gettin' it purging and replacing oil in cycles that last microseconds.
of all the things you've done, and if those things were checked correctly, i'd be really surprised if one of the above isn't your huckleberry.
2007 300 EC, 350 Mags, B3's, Table Rock Lake, MO