Have you checked the suction side of the lift/boost (low pressure) to see what vacuum it pulls? More than 2" of vacuum will mean a restriction on that side somewhere.
This is number 3 on my list posted above. Mechanic did it, and it was 0. However I have read up on it and learned the correct way to do it which includes all the way through wot. He did it at idle. So this will be happening next week. I ordered some tools to aid in the 3 test I posted above.
I sure hope so Handy. This has been so frustrating. I'm truly running out of things to look at. I have read the entire service manual 31. I have more working knowledge than I ever expected I would have. I hope to learn a lot more in the future! Lets just hope we are getting to the bottom of this exhausting issue.
The blips we see in the video of the fuel pressure has me thinking air bubbles are being ingested. I just have hard time wrapping my head around that these potential air bubbles can flat cut my power gain at around 60% throttle. I will be running new fuel pressure test with the rinda overlay while monitoring a clear fuel line. Hope to learn something new.
My unofficial opinion would be that wouldn't be my case though. Corrosion in the pipe would lead to constant air bubbles at all rpms. If they are indeed air bubbles causing the blips in fuel pressure it does not happen until around 3500 rpm or x amount of vaccum. The fuel test I shared will show this.
humor me, sir... take a pic of the crossover tube (between the rails).
if it's a soft line, it better say 'goodyear' on it... they're the only ones who make suitable FI rated hose. it's expensive and most 'kits' come with uber cheap crap.
the interior matters... otherwise, particulates float in suspension and under high flow guess where they go? everything checks out except the flow under demand... because of particulates.... had this precise thing happen to us after putting an F1 airgap on a small block mopar that was shipped with that cheap hose... ethanol took about a month before it started giving issues. the issue was evidenced by pressure drop, but it wasn't that- it was flow restriction... they're two different yet related things. a flow test THROUGH the rail (not a pulled injector tested on a bench) is the only way you'll ever catch it. we got lucky and found evidence of the deterioration/particulates in the injector baskets... hose should be this, and if it ain't- change it even if it isn't the cause:
Will do Drew, I'm currenty in New Orleans for a family passing. I will be back Sunday evening. I do know that upon inspection of the lower fuel lines ( pre boost pump) the interiors looked good and still had the lining in them. Also, after pulling the line at the fuel rail and flow testing the pumps there was no particulates in the 250ml cylinder. All was clean.
I am fighting a very similar issue with my 8.2 ECT. WOT is not near max RPM (it can surge just like yours does in the video). After changing both fuel pumps for about 30 minutes boat ran like a champ (4500rpm vs 3800rpm). Then the issue showed its head again. Mechanic is coming Wednesday to change plugs and wires and do a compression test.
I am getting misfire codes on my VV4 and nothing else. I have changed both the crank and cam sensors so far. Have you tried to swap PCM's yet?
Jason,
We did swap out the ecm 555. Unfortunately it did not help. I find it interesting you swapped both pumps, ran great then dropped back to low rpm. Have you verified your water / fuel separator is not full of water? Do you know how to do this? The dead cylinder 6 would explain the misfire. I am sorry to hear this, it is a bad day for any boater. Did your mechanic perform a leak down test to determine if the low compression is on the top or botttom of the motor?
We replaced everything in the CoolFuel module (both filters, both pumps and regulator). The mechanic did not do a leak down test, I opted to just pull the head and hope for the best (not to be done till 8/30).
I think I have been fighting a few issues, one of the fuel pumps was certainty bad as my fuel pressure would drop like a rock when jumping the throttle but return to almost normal during steady RPMs.
Both myself and the mechanic believe it is a bad exhaust valve (the plug was wet with gas). We think as the valve spins in its seat sometime it seals ok and other times not so much. When I purchased the boat this is the same side of the motor that had a leaky manifold/riser gasket. Lesson learned for using the mechanic the previous owner was using during the inspection/survey process.
My unofficial opinion would be that wouldn't be my case though. Corrosion in the pipe would lead to constant air bubbles at all rpms. If they are indeed air bubbles causing the blips in fuel pressure it does not happen until around 3500 rpm or x amount of vaccum. The fuel test I shared will show this. Why constant bubbles at all RPM's? Surely 10 X flow = 10 X suck = 10 X Bubbles.
Could be pulling air in thru a worn hose between the LP pump and HP pump, or the line back to the the filter from the pressure regulator too.
I would venture to say an air leak has to be pre pumps. A air leak after the pumps is no longer under vacuum pressure and it is now pressurized. This would result in a fuel leak.
Thoughts? Because I had no intentions of investigating an air leak after the boost pump
We replaced everything in the CoolFuel module (both filters, both pumps and regulator). The mechanic did not do a leak down test, I opted to just pull the head and hope for the best (not to be done till 8/30).
I think I have been fighting a few issues, one of the fuel pumps was certainty bad as my fuel pressure would drop like a rock when jumping the throttle but return to almost normal during steady RPMs.
Both myself and the mechanic believe it is a bad exhaust valve (the plug was wet with gas). We think as the valve spins in its seat sometime it seals ok and other times not so much. When I purchased the boat this is the same side of the motor that had a leaky manifold/riser gasket. Lesson learned for using the mechanic the previous owner was using during the inspection/survey process.
Jason,
Was the plug wet with gas or wet with oil? If gas this due to a lack of combustion, you need to check spark plugs, wires etc. If if is oil, and I will bet it was due to cylinder compression you really should do a leak down test. This will tell you quickly and easily where the fault is. You only need to do that cylinder.
Either way, good luck. You should start a new thread so we can follow along and maybe learn something new. I want to know what caused that one cylinder ring, valve seat, etc to fail. Let us know if it was oil or gas.
The plug was wet with gas and was changed only about 5 hours before being pulled (when I purchased the boat). Just changed the wires when we did the compression test so I can rule that out. I'll start a new thread when I get the head pulled.
I forgot you said you were near 90 psi on that cylinder. That is too low for combustion, atleast my understanding is around 90 you can forget about it.
Drive refresh is done. New bellows, hp exhaust, seals, yoke and yoke seal, Gimbal bearing
Plumbed in clear line, see some bubbles but nothing too crazy. Added primer bulb, didn't change anything. Crossed fuel lines to opposite sides, no change. We can eliminate boat side fuel system.
Learned something new again today.
Starboard rd just does not make power at all really, at idle power up port boat takes off. Power up starboard there is barely anything. This is something with the engine. Fuel pressure is higher on starboard but right at spec, port is running about 2 psi low.
Coukd this be a head issue? We have compression, new plugs, wires dist. Injectors and fuel pressure.
Comments
PC BYC, Holland, MI
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bulletins/001/04/2004/en_05.pdf
PC BYC, Holland, MI
PC BYC, Holland, MI
PC BYC, Holland, MI
take a pic of the crossover tube (between the rails).
if it's a soft line, it better say 'goodyear' on it... they're the only ones who make suitable FI rated hose. it's expensive and most 'kits' come with uber cheap crap.
the interior matters... otherwise, particulates float in suspension and under high flow guess where they go? everything checks out except the flow under demand... because of particulates.... had this precise thing happen to us after putting an F1 airgap on a small block mopar that was shipped with that cheap hose... ethanol took about a month before it started giving issues. the issue was evidenced by pressure drop, but it wasn't that- it was flow restriction... they're two different yet related things. a flow test THROUGH the rail (not a pulled injector tested on a bench) is the only way you'll ever catch it. we got lucky and found evidence of the deterioration/particulates in the injector baskets... hose should be this, and if it ain't- change it even if it isn't the cause:
We did swap out the ecm 555. Unfortunately it did not help. I find it interesting you swapped both pumps, ran great then dropped back to low rpm. Have you verified your water / fuel separator is not full of water? Do you know how to do this? The dead cylinder 6 would explain the misfire. I am sorry to hear this, it is a bad day for any boater. Did your mechanic perform a leak down test to determine if the low compression is on the top or botttom of the motor?
I would pull that cylinder injector out and have it checked too.
I think I have been fighting a few issues, one of the fuel pumps was certainty bad as my fuel pressure would drop like a rock when jumping the throttle but return to almost normal during steady RPMs.
Both myself and the mechanic believe it is a bad exhaust valve (the plug was wet with gas). We think as the valve spins in its seat sometime it seals ok and other times not so much. When I purchased the boat this is the same side of the motor that had a leaky manifold/riser gasket. Lesson learned for using the mechanic the previous owner was using during the inspection/survey process.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
i ordered a primer bulb and clear fuel line for next week. We are currently in New Orleans.
I would venture to say an air leak has to be pre pumps. A air leak after the pumps is no longer under vacuum pressure and it is now pressurized. This would result in a fuel leak.
Thoughts? Because I had no intentions of investigating an air leak after the boost pump
Jason,
Was the plug wet with gas or wet with oil? If gas this due to a lack of combustion, you need to check spark plugs, wires etc. If if is oil, and I will bet it was due to cylinder compression you really should do a leak down test. This will tell you quickly and easily where the fault is. You only need to do that cylinder.
Either way, good luck. You should start a new thread so we can follow along and maybe learn something new. I want to know what caused that one cylinder ring, valve seat, etc to fail. Let us know if it was oil or gas.
I forgot you said you were near 90 psi on that cylinder. That is too low for combustion, atleast my understanding is around 90 you can forget about it.
Drive refresh is done. New bellows, hp exhaust, seals, yoke and yoke seal, Gimbal bearing
Plumbed in clear line, see some bubbles but nothing too crazy. Added primer bulb, didn't change anything. Crossed fuel lines to opposite sides, no change. We can eliminate boat side fuel system.
Learned something new again today.
Starboard rd just does not make power at all really, at idle power up port boat takes off. Power up starboard there is barely anything. This is something with the engine. Fuel pressure is higher on starboard but right at spec, port is running about 2 psi low.
Coukd this be a head issue? We have compression, new plugs, wires dist. Injectors and fuel pressure.
What the **** is wrong with this **** boat???
@Alswagg @212rowboat