Smarty pants, I really could use your help! 350 Mag trouble SOLVED?? MAJOR UPDATE

Wildboating

So your not concerned my brand new reseal Of the drives isn’t leaking?  The mechanic is saying it is normal. I guess my last boat was abnormal as I never had water in the reservoir. 

rasbury

I'm with you wild- only one way for it to get there- unless it was not cleaned out from your re seal- clean it up and see what happens...

212rowboat

A drop or two of water has dramatic effect on coloration... That could be condensate collected after a run and cool down process... That. And quicksilver is known to use dispersement instead of immulisfiar(sp?) Which makes it settle in reservoirs like that... After it rests there long enough it will goop.  

If it was compromised it would be milky throughout dispersement or not...  Only way to tell properly is to drop the drain plug and sample. 

Wildboating

I believe it is quicksilver fluid. 

Wildboating

Shop called they are back at the boat today.  Something about the cap and rotor we put on last as we did the last 3 years has a chunk blown off the rotor???? I just said ok and hung up. I can’t get upset today.  Too drained.  I’m going through water system this evening. 

212rowboat

friend, it's time to break out the sage and walk in circles around that thing while chanting...

I can't tell you what to chant, but I've seen it done.  I dated a gal who was smoking hot but bat **** crazy.  It was awesome until the crazy part took notice of my presence and i had to bounce her.  If i weren't on bad terms with her i'd call her up and ask what the procedure is.  Last time we spoke it was on the phone, and she cast a spell on me... i could hear her friends backing her up in chant behind her.  it may be better not to remind her i'm still around.  she may go to stronger stuff that actually works...

@raybo3 , she lives up in your area somewhere... Boxford last i heard... be aware and beware.   

Black_Diamond

You sure that is water in the reservoir?  Old oil in the reservoir will collect gunk in the bottom and look just like that.  

I made a nifty adapter to flush out the lube line (with the drive off). I flush mineral spirits thru the line, wash out the reservoir with it too then can fill the reservoir AND line with new gear oil. 

Wildboating

212rowboat said:

friend, it's time to break out the sage and walk in circles around that thing while chanting...

I can't tell you what to chant, but I've seen it done.  I dated a gal who was smoking hot but bat **** crazy.  It was awesome until the crazy part took notice of my presence and i had to bounce her.  If i weren't on bad terms with her i'd call her up and ask what the procedure is.  Last time we spoke it was on the phone, and she cast a spell on me... i could hear her friends backing her up in chant behind her.  it may be better not to remind her i'm still around.  she may go to stronger stuff that actually works...

@raybo3 , she lives up in your area somewhere... Boxford last i heard... be aware and beware.   

This made my day.  Thanks bud.  Things are looking up. 

raybo3

@212 Yeah Boxford is only around 20 miles or so from me. I wonder if I can get her to put a spell on my ex wife. If it works I will pay her very well.......lol

Wildboating

I went through water system, plumbed hose at rear of engine right aft of the water pump output.  Pulled thermostat, tested opening and closing properly however did not have a temp sensor.  Checked for obstructions. Nothing.   Ran water with and without thermostat in, I was able to get water flowing from water bulb up to manifolds.  I was not able to get it to fill system and come out Of forward facing riser ports. Put it all back together after priming system with water (it was bone dry full of air). Ran motor and monitored manifold temps. The side that is not breaking It was running  at 170.  The side that is cracking 150.   Shut down and test port motor, both ran 170 equally.  Came back to starboard and now they ran within 5 degrees of each other. Puzzled.  I ran motors for ten minutes at 1500 rpm.  Starboard on ecm shows 156 temp, port 144 temp.  Never changed once it warmed up. 

212rowboat

Stats are funny critters that drive me insane. Tjere is nothing scientific about them.  In my experience as many as 1 out of 5 are bad out of the box.  Of the ones that are good, youll be lucky to jave then within 5 or 6 degrees of one another... My personal cut off is 5 degrees of the rating else it gets tossed.  

Swap stats between engines and see if the running temps follow. 

pistole

thermostats are very reliable creatures. And their failure mode is an open position , ie , your engine still runs.

212rowboat

pistole said:

thermostats are very reliable creatures. And their failure mode is an open position , ie , your engine still runs.

And your point?  The relavance of your contribution to this thread?  

pistole

I was referencing your point about thermostats being unreliable . That's all. Relax 

212rowboat

the ones that work are absolutely reliable... the ones that don't, aren't.  it has nothing to do with the engine running or not- it has to do with their running temperature which is solely regulated by the thermostat... if @Wildboating has one engine running cooler/hotter than the other, swapping the 'stat around will rule the thermostat out as a possibility.  

we can argue this elsewhere.  this thread should stay on topic.  

Wildboating

@212rowboat
@Alswagg


Care to take a stab at what caused this ( less than  1 year old) and any symptoms it would have caused.  Same problematic engine.  

Wildboating

How would the engine even run?

rasbury

Holy crap batman!

Black_Diamond

Impressive. Bad coil maybe?  Or cap loose?

odd the end towards the cap looks like new. Impressive to melt the plastic and vaporize/breakdown the center coil contact 

aero3113

WoW! Is this the first time the rotor was inspected since your issues?

Wildboating

Aero this was replaced last year.  

Black_Diamond

So it almost has to be a high resistance issue. Bad/wrong plug(s), plug gap too large. High plug wire resistance (can be temp related too) Defective coil (too much voltage). Bad ground(s) in the dist or with the engine.  

212rowboat

well... 

that is....

something. 

i wager you're spraying spark and this is what happened in higher range when it fell on it's face.  i further wager you were backfiring through the exhaust like mad while spraying spark... I'd be interested in seeing if you were firing through the intake too... any indication of soot in the hat of the TB? a dental mirror scope would be interesting near the intake runners port... 

i've never seen a rotor button do that.  the only thing that makes any sense at first thought outside of defective to begin with is some sort of debris in there that was wound up and spit out as it was bridging connection, slapping the walls, and shrapnel'ing the buttons home. 

when you spray spark you basically ignite all the cylinders at once... some may fire, especially a compressed wad of a:f (like it is supposed to) but it will also ignite any unspent fuel on exhaust stroke (using the heat, it only requires a slight spark), and can ignite on the intake stroke too- burning up through the open runner and POP through the throttle body's hat. 

You may want to take that flame arrestor (the hat) off and hold it passionately, expressing how much you and your crew appreciate its design and function.     

212rowboat

yeah that is out of bounds for sure.  

J3ff

what's it supposed to look like? what are we looking at here? Is this the reason for the trouble? 

212rowboat

would love to see the cap too... 

wonder if the installer used something other than dielectric grease in there?  

aero3113

J3ff said:

what's it supposed to look like? what are we looking at here? Is this the reason for the trouble? 

If you look closely at this pic there is a center electrode , that is what is missing/melted.

212rowboat

J3ff said:

what's it supposed to look like? what are we looking at here? Is this the reason for the trouble? 

dalek

I would also suggest you check that your coil is not permanently energized when the engine is running. (Not under the control of the ECM). May be a fault in the loom. It would charge when the rotor contact was between the distributor studs and then fire as soon as possible. Because it is effectively shorted for a longer period, it has less time to charge. At low RPM, this would give advanced ignition, but at some point at higher RPM would give a controlled sequential misfire, depending on the hysteresis of your coil.

Handymans342

Good grief