2004 270 FV stove top wiring?

J3ff

Ditched the alcohol stove/burner combo for just a sleek looking glass burner:



So far this year I've been fighting problem after problem....and of course when I flip the breaker and turn it on, it doesn't work!! 

This is how the old one was wired:


The new one only has three wires, not six.. so I figured maybe the new one just didn't require dual connections..

I was wrong of course....

So I guess I should have tested it before going through all this hassle, but I installed a junction box, capped off the lines I thought I didn't need and then wired up the remaining three wires to the one on the burner..



Obviously the wiring must need both sets of wires hooked up to the input to the burner.. does anyone know how to go about doing that when it looks like the power wires will need to be combined inside the junction box, vs right on the burner (because there doesn't appear to be any place to put two sets of wires on the new burner)..

Old Cooktop: https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00A9WF0MM/banbcwriser-20

New cooktop: https://www.amazon.com/Kenyon-B41605-Caribbean-Cooktop-120-volt/dp/B0011YNILC

So the question is where do I go from here? 

Thank you for any help. 

J3ff

ah boy, I guess the silence means I'm up a river without a paddle. Hmm. 

skennelly

@J3ff are you wiring it 240 or 120?  240 will be 2 hot wires and a ground.

120 will be a hot a nuetral and a ground.

I can't see the pics you tried to post

Willhound

J3ff, where did your pics go? Might help to see what's up.
Only reason I can think of for 6 wires on old cooktop would be if the element was a dual coil, each with it's own feeds, and three for the new makes sense to me, one hot, one neutral and one ground. But those pics might help.

J3ff

Ah man, you can't see them? Alright..fixing now. 

J3ff

Fixed now.. can you see them?

Old one = 240
New one = 120
Didn't mess with the breakers.. do I need to swap a breaker too maybe?

  

Willhound

Your old one was also 120 and should have only required 3 wires according to the manual on the Kenyon site. It looks to me like the wire coming in from the bottom in the top pic is your feed, with Black (hot) White (neutral) and Green (ground) which then go to a connection block for the burner that then splits it for whatever reason. Or did they contuinue on and feed something else like a fridge plug or something? Are you sure the 3 you maretted off aren't actually your feed wires from the panel?
Edit: - The more I look at the first pic, the more I think that's what they did, they ran the 3 wires to the cooktop, and then junctioned off that to go on and feed something else.

J3ff

Willhound said:

Your old one was also 120 and should have only required 3 wires according to the manual on the Kenyon site. It looks to me like the wire coming in from the bottom in the top pic is your feed, with Black (hot) White (neutral) and Green (ground) which then go to a connection block for the burner that then splits it for whatever reason. Or did they contuinue on and feed something else like a fridge plug or something? Are you sure the 3 you maretted off aren't actually your feed wires from the panel?

That's an excellent point, but no, it doesn't go to the fridge or anything else that I am aware of.  The fridge is plugged into both DC and AC, but with a regular plug for ac.. and there is no breaker on the panel for fridge..  Just stove.. 

Willhound

If you have a non-contact voltage tester, or even a contact tester that can handle 120v, test the wires you capped off and see if they have power when you hit the breaker. That'll tell if you used the right set of feeds or not. Can't see how/why there would have been two feeds going to the same set of contacts on the old unit. It wouldn't double the voltage to 240, if anything, if they are both hot, it would cause an issue with a short and kick out a breaker, (I think), so i still think that second wire runs off to somewhere.....
You say the fridge is plugged into a receptacle, but no breaker...just one for stove. Trace the wire from the fridge receptacle and see if it doesn't head up towards the cooktop area. I'm betting that's how they fed it. And you can't tell by unplugging the fridge from AC, because it'll just flip over and run on DC.

J3ff

Willhound said:

If you have a non-contact voltage tester, or even a contact tester that can handle 120v, test the wires you capped off and see if they have power when you hit the breaker. That'll tell if you used the right set of feeds or not. Can't see how/why there would have been two feeds going to the same set of contacts on the old unit. It wouldn't double the voltage to 240, if anything, if they are both hot, it would cause an issue with a short and kick out a breaker, (I think), so i still think that second wire runs off to somewhere.....

Yeah, that's what I don't get. It's the standard breaker that all 270's have I believe.  Why would it have two sets of wires in the first place? But the thing that makes me think it doesn't go and power anything is that then the breaker would need to be labeled something else. 

I can test out the fridge theory when I get back to the boat pretty easily... will just kill the DC power and see if it turns on while hooked up to AC.. 

skennelly

I'd put a meter on the wires and make sure they are what you think they are.  Trace back to the panel if you need to.

Willhound

If the fridge does run on the AC, hit the stove breaker to off and see if it quits. Just because they ran both the stove and fridge off one breaker doesn't mean they would have labelled it as such. Perhaps "Galley" would be a better label, but as my 2000 FV270 shows, they used different model fridges. Mine is strictly 12 volt, no AC plug. I bet if it was AC compatible they would just run them both off one breaker.

J3ff

Willhound said:

If the fridge does run on the AC, hit the stove breaker to off and see if it quits. Just because they ran both the stove and fridge off one breaker doesn't mean they would have labelled it as such. Perhaps "Galley" would be a better label, but as my 2000 FV270 shows, they used different model fridges. Mine is strictly 12 volt, no AC plug. I bet if it was AC compatible they would just run them both off one breaker.

I am 99% sure I tested it over the winter to make sure it ran off of AC after seeing this topic come up.  At the time I tested it, the breaker for the burner would have been off, because I've actually only tested that ONCE when I bought it.. (and it did work).. 

J3ff

skennelly said:

I'd put a meter on the wires and make sure they are what you think they are.  Trace back to the panel if you need to.

will do.. another tool to buy and add to the toolbox. 

gack

Fridge is on the same breaker as the cooktop on  my '04 270.

J3ff

gack said:

Fridge is on the same breaker as the cooktop on  my '04 270.

What is the breaker labeled on your panel?

gack

Jeff, Either stove or cooktop.  No mention of fridge.

J3ff

Thanks guys, Will be digging into this on Wed night, going to assume you're right about the wiring and stove going to fridge. Just confusing that it's not mentioned anywhere! 

gack

You should just have to connect all 3 sets of same color wire together.

Willhound

gack said:

You should just have to connect all 3 sets of same color wire together.

That's what I'm thinking, that's how it was wired before, only using a junction bar instead of a box like you are using now. I like the box better.

laureniac1

Agree my 2005 270 fridge runs off the stove breaker

reneechris14

Yup,3 wires in,one power,2 out.so it's not just the fridge there's still another one in the loop.disconnect all ,put breaker on to be sure which one is  feed.and then go live!!

J3ff

Thanks, wow look at all the people visiting the site before 7 am.... We must be a successful group here

Willhound

Naaah.....just as I get older I can't seem to stay awake past 10 PM, therefore up every day by around 5:30.....

J3ff

Me too, but I head to bed at 1130, still up at 545 everyday haha just about to hit 35

reneechris14

Just hit 50 can't sleep past 530,and can't stay up past 10.my mom must be proud.

randy56

wait till ya hit 60, nothing get's up.

gack

I like that cooktop.  May add it to my list of future upgrades.  On a related note, has anyone pulled the microwave on their 270?  Mine is not getting power so I will check the breaker panel first, but may need to install a new one if needed. Is there an easy way to remove it without pulling the whole cabinet out?

J3ff

Thank you all for all the help!



Didn't realize that the fridge was wired into the same breaker just as you all said.. Fixed the wires and we're all set!

Will, does yours light up anything over the word "HOT" ?  Mine doesn't and it's def. hot!!  

Willhound

To tell you the truth, apart from turning on briefly to make sure it worked, I have't used it yet. So don't know. Probably just a generic warning? Congrats on the success.

reneechris14

@gack the mic is screwd in form under the cabinet,push it back  a little and you can get the srcews out of the black starboard and the mic will come then out can get to the plug.the mic is screwd to a 1/4" piece of plywood that what the screws under the cabinet go in to.