Conversion to all-digital helm on a 2007 370

13

Comments

  • tricountytrailtricountytrail Member Posts: 204 ✭✭
    YYZRC said:
    @tricountytrail that’s exactly what I did last summer and I’m really happy. 


    Any parts list to the parts needed for connection from motor to connect to nema 2000 bus?

  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 5,113 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited January 2022
    I used 2 GO9, one GO12, VesselView Link Multi Engine and 2 J-Boxes, plus a Lowrance N2K starter kit. I also have a N2K GPS puck for speed, digital fuel senders and trim senders, and a rudder angle sensor. 

    Motors connect to NMEA via the VV Link interface. 
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • GMSLITHOGMSLITHO Member Posts: 1,580 ✭✭✭✭
    I guess having a compass is as obslete these days as paper charts .and parallel rules 
  • GrahamuGrahamu Member Posts: 880 ✭✭✭
    I still keep paper charts onboard. My chart plotter stopped working a couple of years ago on eastern Lake Ontario and needed them to safely navigate to Kingston Harbour. I also keep a running log as I travel, old school I guess but that's what I grew up with.
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 5,113 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I also carry paper charts on board. Not sure I could navigate by them, but they’re at the ready!
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • WillhoundWillhound Member Posts: 4,208 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Paper charts and a magnetic compass are required in Canada for any navigation beyond (I believe) 1/2 Nautical mile from shore. 
    "Knot Quite Shore" - 2000 FV270 (Sold)
    2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
  • GMSLITHOGMSLITHO Member Posts: 1,580 ✭✭✭✭
     I’m on a small lake s no need for charts or compass  but I did take a boat from nj to fla once before gps so it was all compass and charts 
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 5,113 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited January 2022
    That’s great news @Grahamu - flares are expensive and difficult to dispose of when expired. 
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,754 mod
    edited January 2022
    I've commented before about LED flares, and it's a love-hate relationship.  LEDs complement pyro flares, but should not replace them. 

    GREAT benefits:  If a professional rescue team knows you are in trouble, and is actively looking for you, an SOS light will alert them with minimal risk to boat and crew.  It's an absolute must-have for every boat.

    Unfortunately, the more common case is that you urgently need to alert any human within visual range.  Even if a slack-jawed onlooker happens to see you, they won't know Morse Code for SOS.  To them, it will be a blinking light that they see for a few seconds before popping a fresh brewski.  In that scenario, the LED fails. 

    By contrast, a waving pyro flare is unmistakable as a distress signal.  Just don't burn yourself or what's left of your vessel.  

    Disposing of pyro flares is easy.  We're not talking high explosives.  Fairfax County hazmat disposal told me this:  Cut them open on both ends, and soak them a bucket of water for a couple days.  Then throw them in the regular trash.  I cut them into smaller pieces, but whatevs. 

    So (and I know we're off-topic), you still need to buy pyro flares every year and keep them current.  And don't forget smoke flares for daytime.  :)
    Post edited by LaRea on
  • tricountytrailtricountytrail Member Posts: 204 ✭✭
    YYZRC said:
    I used 2 GO9, one GO12, VesselView Link Multi Engine and 2 J-Boxes, plus a Lowrance N2K starter kit. I also have a N2K GPS puck for speed, digital fuel senders and trim senders, and a rudder angle sensor. 

    Motors connect to NMEA via the VV Link interface. 
    Any chance you have a parts list and or wiring diagrams, or pics? I plan on setting up my new to me 2005 Rinker 360 the same way. twin mercruiser 496 mags with bravo 3s.
    You could message me and Ill give you my email.
    Thanks Blair
  • aero3113aero3113 Member Posts: 9,044 ✭✭✭✭✭
    YYZRC said:
    I also carry paper charts on board. Not sure I could navigate by them, but they’re at the ready!
    Same here 😂
    2008 330EC
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 5,113 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited January 2022
    YYZRC said:
    I used 2 GO9, one GO12, VesselView Link Multi Engine and 2 J-Boxes, plus a Lowrance N2K starter kit. I also have a N2K GPS puck for speed, digital fuel senders and trim senders, and a rudder angle sensor. 

    Motors connect to NMEA via the VV Link interface. 
    Any chance you have a parts list and or wiring diagrams, or pics? I plan on setting up my new to me 2005 Rinker 360 the same way. twin mercruiser 496 mags with bravo 3s.
    You could message me and Ill give you my email.
    Thanks Blair
    Here's a pair of threads with most of the info:
    https://rinkerboats.vanillacommunities.com/discussion/6599/vesselview-7-question/
    https://rinkerboats.vanillacommunities.com/discussion/11226/twin-engine-vessel-view-mobile

    The XX in the 879981T part number below is the length of cable from engine to dash.  I recommend 25' and 30' for your boat.

    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • tricountytrailtricountytrail Member Posts: 204 ✭✭
    edited January 2022
    So If I use the above diagram do I still have to isolate power from one engine or does using the 2 junction boxes and can p jumper harness take care of that? Also I will need to change engine name from (default starboard) to port, correct? Also with the 25' and 30' cables that should allow me to put the junction boxes behind the instrument panel?
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 5,113 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Ignore the isolate power topic. It was an old schematic. 

    Yes you will need to have a tech rename the engine “cityID”

    Yes the 25 and 30’ lengths will get you to the helm. 
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • tricountytrailtricountytrail Member Posts: 204 ✭✭
    YYZRC said:
    Ignore the isolate power topic. It was an old schematic. 

    Yes you will need to have a tech rename the engine “cityID”

    Yes the 25 and 30’ lengths will get you to the helm. 
    Thanks for all the help.
    I have access to a scanner so I can take care of the programming.
    I will double check lengths be they seem right on.


  • tricountytrailtricountytrail Member Posts: 204 ✭✭
    Any sugestions for the best price/service for the following parts?

  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 5,113 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited January 2022
    I found the best prices for most of it on eBay. You can probably get away with 20/25’ but it’s tight. 
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • MarioMario Member Posts: 1
    WoW great job, it’s really nice !
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,754 mod
    Thank you @Mario - and welcome to the forum!
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,754 mod
    edited February 2023
    You guys know I always work on upgrades during winter layup.  This time, it’s another helm upgrade.  

    Here's the "before" pic.  From the day I finished that job, I knew I’d have to replace it.  The two small i70 displays had too much sun glare, even after I built the custom bevel to tilt them up higher.  They couldn’t show as much engine data as I wanted to see.  And the whole thing just looked homemade because of the awkward mix of black Starboard with the legacy faux woodgrain panels.  



    Here’s the “after” pic.  I kept the VesselView 702 (top right).  Gone are the es97 chartplotter and the two i70 data displays.  I replaced them with two Raymarine Axiom 9 RV chartplotters in a totally new arrangement.  Happy happy, joy joy!





    Now the primary chartplotter is within easy reach -- no more awkward bending forward to reach the touchscreen.  And with two chartplotters, the VesselView will be dedicated to showing engine data.  

    To do it, I built a custom instrument pod just behind the wheel.  I was able to preserve the original curved fiberglass in case a future owner doesn’t like my work.  The pod is made from two pieces of 1/2" Starboard: a housing and a detachable instrument panel.  The housing is a single piece with no fasteners.  To form the corners, I used a table saw to cut V-notches in the inside.  Then I bent the panel using a heat gun.  To figure out the angles, I built a prototype from plywood.  



    I needed to bend the board at an angle of 101 degrees.  After about 10 tries on scrap pieces, I figured out a process.  Cut a V-notch leaving about 1/8” of material.  Heat the inside of the corner until you can dent it with a toothpick, then SLOWLY bend it in until the gap closes.  (Bending it too fast makes the plastic turn white.)  








    I reorganized the rocker switches in a more logical layout.  All six light switches are together in the starboard cluster.  The "operations" switches (nav lights, engine hatch, stereo, wiper, bilge, electronics) are together on the port side.  And the horn switch has a prominent location at the top left.  I used these switch holders:




    I had imagined that rewiring the switches would be a huge PITA, but it wasn’t.  Most of the wires are ground and switch lights, which I didn't move.  To rearrange the circuit wires, just get a mini flathead screwdriver, pop out the wire terminals one at a time, and move them to a different connector.  Only one wire wasn’t long enough to reach the new location, so I spliced in an extension.  This rewiring took about three hours on a pleasant winter Sunday.  

    The primary VHF is now an ICOM M605, which has a beautiful high-resolution color screen to match the other displays.



    Lastly, I added an RV-100 RealVision 3D sonar transducer.  It's a 4-channel sonar that scans out to the sides and builds a continuous 3D map of the seabed.  The down-looking channel gets overridden by my existing Airmar B-60 thru-hull transducer, which has more power and gives better data at planing speeds.  





    So, how much did I spend?  Well, the project started when West Marine randomly put the Axiom chartplotters on sale for 30% off.  So:

    $1500 – Two chartplotters
    $800 - VHF radio
    $400 – Sonar transducer and Y-cable
    $200 – Materials
    $2900 total

    Subtract $2000 from selling the removed parts on eBay, and it’s a $900 project.

    Can't wait for launch day -- now scheduled for a week from Friday!
    Post edited by LaRea on
  • aero3113aero3113 Member Posts: 9,044 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @LaRea , great work!!
    Looks amazing!!
    2008 330EC
  • WillhoundWillhound Member Posts: 4,208 ✭✭✭✭✭
    More screens than the Starship Enterprise!
    "Knot Quite Shore" - 2000 FV270 (Sold)
    2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
  • Pat310Pat310 Member Posts: 567 ✭✭✭
    Really nice work as usual. Looks awesome 
  • diggin2day1diggin2day1 Member Posts: 1,328 ✭✭✭✭
    Phenomenal work!!!
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,754 mod
    edited February 2023
    Thanks guys. 

    In the unlikely event somebody tries this in the future, here are the dimensions of the pod housing.  No guarantees -- your mileage may vary.  I had to do a bit of on-site grinding to make it fit.  I didn't use any mechanical fasteners.  It's held in place by a bead of black butyl tape.  


  • aero3113aero3113 Member Posts: 9,044 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @LaRea if someone makes the templet they still need the dimensions of your knee print 😂
    2008 330EC
  • GlennyGlenny Member Posts: 24
    I am adding an axiom myself as well and eliminating the gauges as they are packing it in. For the fuel gauges yacht devises makes NMEA 2000 Tank Adapter YDTA-01 I will purchase to see fuel on the axiom. (unless someone knows of a different product).

    Question is there a device that can convert my DPS drives trim sensor to the raymarine unit in the same way I am doing the fuel tanks?
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 5,113 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @LaRea it looks awesome. You were such a strong proponent of having physical buttons - what changed?!
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
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