RAIN WATER LEAKS INTO AFT CABIN

MarkB

Navy, either there's too much water going in (do you have a cockpit cover?), or that drain is partially plugged and needs to be carefully reemed (so as not to damage drain pipe).

NavyCTRC

Mark,

The drain is as clear as it will get, solid flow of water out of it when washing behind the dash.  I have a cockpit cover, but it is a major PITA if we are only away from the boat for a few days at a time, and there will not be any major storms coming through.  If the weather man says be prepared for heavy rain or it looks like more than a small passing storm, we put the cover on.   This only happens when we have MAJOR downpour, regular or light rain showers and the drain keeps up.  We have started sticking a piece of plastic (from a kids sand shovel) wrapped in a dish towel into the gap.  It seems to prevent water from coming in.  I think the cabin door on my boat is just poorly designed.

MarkB

OK Navy, I understand you. By the way, does rain contacting the deck generally drain to the stern or do you have a lot of it going to the door and behind the transom? Just wondering what the level on your boat looks like.

NavyCTRC

Most of it will hit the engine hatch opening and drain out around the engines and out the back of the boat, but I have one problem area, right where I stand.  There is no drain to let water escape from in front of the helm seat, so now I have an old mop head that I soak it up with.  Very little actually goes out the back door since the engine hatch opening is right there.  I don't have any pictures with me at work right now. 

bazza

2010 280 
My aft cabin window was leaking and wetting the mattress and floor,I have read lots of advise from many owners and found them very helpful, but supersizing to find out that so many owners were having this problem, however I removed inner window frame after securing outer frame and found that the outer frame had tabs on it holding it to the hull and I was able to apply sealer and re assemble inner frame, tested and up to now water tight.
Thanks to everyone for taking the time to post help and advise, it gives owners the detail and confidence to have ago themselves.
Barrie. Neyland Wales UK.

RinkerNorway

Another Question

The rubber "thing" on the windscreen that is supposed to cover up the screws to the hull. Is this supposed to go all the way from the front to the back? I see that mine is missing 2.3 inches both front andback to all the way "under" the alloy and protect against water,. This might be due to aging rubber?

Anyone know where new could be bought?

Appreciated

bigal6030

I resealed my windows from the outside. All the caulk was chalking and came out easy. Not the best fix but seemed to help. Also check the black gasket on the inside. Make sure it is in front of the screen to create a good seal when you close and latch the window.

RinkerNorway

Thanks bigal6030.

I might have explained this in a bad way.

I was referring to the rubber "molding" on the outside that the arrow points to at he picture.(covering the bolts from the windscreen to the hull) This is not long enought to cover the complete section, so it leaves an gap on both front of the windsreen and rear(the red circle)  I'm guessing this should cover the whole opening?


Could anyone point me to either a online store where this can be bought, or provide the exact name/details of this so i can source it here locally

Again, Highly Appreciated

Black_Diamond

Look and see if the winshield glass is made by Taylor Made, if so you can get new rubber seal from them on-line. 

Michael T

@RinkerNorway yes the black plastic side strip that gives access to the windshield to hull screws should go all the way but that is more for esthetics. The real issue is the proper installation of the SS screws that fasten the windshield to the hull. I love Rinkers but this is an area, in the past, where I have seen inconsistent installation quality.

Remove the black plastic windshield side molding. Take time and you will not damage it. I have done this MANY times. When you do you will see a channel into which the SS screws are fitted that hold the windshield to the boat's hull.

Look closely. I use an LED flashlight, even in sunlight. Are there any missing screws, are there any loose screws, are there any uncaulked screws? Is there a water relief hole drilled at the end of the aluminum windshield frame to let the water out and into the water relief channel that is molded into the gel coat of the hull at the end of many Rinker hull designs?

If there are issues with the screws or the water drainage from the windshield you will have water issues in your hull's fiberglass core and the interior.

Be VERY careful when tightening down the screws that hold the windshield to the hull for two reasons: 1. If the screws are too tight you will crack the gel coat at every screw entry point. 2. If the screws are too tight the windshield will not be able to flex with the hull and the gel coat can crack as can the windshield itself.

I recommend "two finger tight" with a hand held screw driver - NEVER - a bit on a drill.

I use 3M 4200 as the caulking.

I have helped remove, re-caulk and replace the screws (SS only!!!!!) on two Rinker boats and have red-done several on both my 2013 EC 310 and 2014 EC 360, as well as those on at least a dozen friends' boats.

The windshield to hull contact of many top manufacturers leaves a lot to be desired - but - is certainly a repair that can be done by anyone if time and care is taken.

Windshield through hull leaks are a very destructive issue.

NB. On many boats the water is allowed under the windshield as there are channels (like on the EC 360s) to direct it away and over the side of the hull.....but water should never be allowed through the screw holes and into the hull core and cabin below. 

seguir

This is exactly where I found my leak.  I agree with Michael T.   I did the exact same now no leak. 280 Rinker.

J3ff

Same problem here, just realized today that it's soaking wet!! 

skennelly

Reviving an old thread.

I've been having a similar issue and I've determined the water is coming from the pantry window.  I pulled the window today and discovered signs of water entry so I feel good about finding the problem.

Question is...what product to go with when reinstalling the window?  I was thinking 3m 4200, but someone else mentioned boat life caulk.

Pretty sure it was either 4200 or 5200 holding the factory install window.  It was a beach to get off.

Thanks!

Handymans342

4200

Handymans342

Or Butyl tape

skennelly

Thanks.

Black_Diamond

I liked the Boat Life caulk. Easier to remove if needed in the future. Plus 4200 is really not meant to be a 'caulk' like an exposed bead. More meant for sealing fastened together parts. 4200 is NOT mold/mildew resistant if exposed. Trust me on that mistake!

J3ff

How much of a job is removing the window?

skennelly

@J3ff - I went slow cause I didn't really know what to expect.  I removed the 5 screws from the inside and then used a putty knife to break the caulk on both the inside and outside of the boat.  Used painters tape to protect the gelcoat.

My biggest issue was the leather / canvas that makes up the cabin walls was stuck to the interior window frame.  Had to be careful cause it would really damage it.  I was very careful but still did some minor damage..But not really noticeable.

Then had to clean up all the old caulk.

I still have to reinstall and I'm trying to figure out how not to get 4200 all over the place 

skennelly

Took me around 3 hours to remove it.

bella-vita

Just took all three of mine out did not have to heat or cut anything metal trim on outside pushed off easily after removing screws inside

bella-vita

Black_Diamond

All my SS trim rings had little caulk or stuck badly. I used a 14oz tube of caulk PER window. You have to fully overload the trim ring then install and wipe the excess.  

skennelly

I ordered a 10oz of 4200...I hope that's enough to seal the window.

bella-vita

A 10 0z tube was enough for me to do 2 the cut out was good and tight i dug out the little bit of rot their was after letting it dry all winter then I mixed up some tiger hair fiberglass resin and sealed it up all way around let it dry sanded it smooth  then sealed the metal trims in real good with 4000uv .i used BD idea and taped all around metal trim first to boat than cut it out made for easy clean up 

frodo13056

Just an FYI - I was browsing around on how to re-bed my thru hulls since I am doing that next week and was dreading on how to break the adhesive bond for the thru hulls (generator intake and thru hull transducer). I did some research and came across this article: 

http://www.boatingmag.com/marine-solvents-for-removing-5200

I did some further research and wound up purchasing a 12oz can of the  "Debond 2000" for my little project - I'll post back when I find out how well it works. 

bella-vita

They had a similar spray at west marine 

skennelly

I put my window back in today and I have to say it's one of the least confident projects I've done.  Really hoping I didn't screw it up.

J3ff

Down here at the boat now trying to pull the window out while it's in its slip.


Used a camera on a wire to see that there is a puddle directly on the hull of the boat under the electrical panel....

Gah. 

J3ff

skennelly said:

I put my window back in today and I have to say it's one of the least confident projects I've done.  Really hoping I didn't screw it up.

took me a couple hours to get it all done, I feel the same way.  How is yours doing?